Engine will be pulled

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by jetboy

Bill, does this rebuild kit have a part number or something? Google doesn't turn up much.

10105AA060 Engine Gasket/seal K $327.38 $259.29
Includes the rear main seal, the left side connecting rod access cover both on the back of the engine and be sure to remove and reseal the seporator plate on the right rear side of the engine.
While you are at ALL HOSES!
Including the coolant lines under the intake manifold.

[oab_au]

Make sure you replace the "O" ring behind the oil pump.

Harvey.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Make sure you replace the "O" ring behind the oil pump.

Harvey.

And tighten the screws on the back of the oil pump!

[jetboy]

Thanks, guys!

[intelisevil]

At the risk of sounding stupid - Yes I DID use the Search button - Where can I find some info on the "Flex plate upgrade (from 2mm to 3mm)"?

I'm about to pull my engine to hopefully only have to replace the front transmission seal. All of my tranny blood spilled out from under the torque convertor. This would be the perfect opportunity to do the upgrade if it's worthwhile.

Thanks in Advance,
Dan

[Tapani]

The thicker flex plate part # is 12332AA071.... it $28 only, so why not. I did.

/Tapani

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by Tapani

The thicker flex plate part # is 12332AA071.... it $28 only, so why not. I did.

/Tapani

Highly, highly recommended. I have seen enough failures of the stockers on the forums as they get older, and it's a cheap enough "while we're in there" part to more than justify it.

[longassname]

I saw some mention of pulling your engine and transmission as a whole? I don't see why you would want to do this.

The tips I would give for the process of pulling the ENGINE are:
1) Your mechanic should pull the throttle body off of the intake manifold for clear access to the torque converter bolts both for removal and installation. Torque converter bolts should be torqued with blue threadlock.

2)The motor mounts or "cushion rubber" will probably break during the engine pull/installation because they are old and fragile. Go ahead and order a new pair ahead of time. It's time to replace them.

3)It's a good idea to go ahead and replace the power steering hose behind the engine at this time too. It's also past due and will usually spring a leak shortly after an engine pull. It's too brittle to hold up to the flexing it will go through when disconnected and moved out of the way.

4)The intake manifold and injector risers come off as one assembly. Your mechanic shouldn't try to unbolt the intake manifold from the injector stacks he should unbolt the injector stacks from the cylinder heads. With the manifold assembly off he can replace the vacuum hoses under the manifold and the knock sensors on the top of the engine block. It's also a good idea to replace the wiring harness on the top of the engine block which the knock and crank angle sensors plug into. It's usually brittle at this point. The harness on the underside of the intake manifold is usually fine.

5)Like alluded to earlier if you don't replace your head gaskets now they will probably go bad soon and make you regret it dearly. I use the subaru gasket and seal kit already recomended to you. For some reason Subaru usually shorts you on valve cover bolt seals so order some extras. One of the seals on the side of the water pump I think is usually the wrong shape too. It's not an important seal; it just seals the timing belt area from the outside. I just re-use the old one. You also need to buy new head bolts. The old head bolts can not be re-used.