Attempting Timing Belt / Water Pump Replacement - Tips/Advice.

[Subix]

My belt broke coming off a freeway and am curious if I will run into any issues as far as alignment marks may go since it broke. I looked for a proper how-to here but couldn't find one? Just a picture to the timing belt setup.

I've done spark plugs, radiator, power steering pump, O2 sensors, alternator, pulley tensioner, but fear doing a timing belt, water pump and thermostat combination.... but, will try I guess... oppose to spending $425.

As far as the water pump is concerned, what do I need to seal it if anything at all? (I have the pump itself and the seals, just not sure if I need anything else to bond it so to speak? I'm ignorant about this, sorry.)

So far I have the driver side fan out, driver side cover off and pulley tensioner before it got dark out. Plan on tackling more tomorrow when the sun rises. I'm not sure what I need to do about the AC pulley in getting that mess off, as I'm assuming I do have to remove it. Any pointers? It's been seized anyways so it needs to come off anyways... just no replacement for it yet and since it'll be snowing soon, no need

Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. TIA!

[Cam]

You do not need anything to seal the waterpump besides the seals. Get a new thermostat though. And use thread lock on the bolts. As far as the a/c pump, iust remove it. purge it first using the relief valve on the driver side. Do this otside and do not lay on the ground for at least 30 minutes after to avoid passing out and getting freon poisoning.
Good luck.

P.s. try Google for svx factory service manual.

[svxfiles]

The AC compressor does not need to be touched at all!
Pull the radiator with the fans attached.

[Cam]

It's been a while since I looked in a complete engine bay. Nevermind about the a/c I guess.

[svxfiles]

Removing the rad, and the charcoal canister and bracket gives alot of room.
Alternator, power steering bracket as well.
Change the PS reservoir O-ring.
And if you can steam the engine BEFORE you tear it apart makes the job alot better too.
Its a good time to reseal the oil pump.
Its a good time to replace the cam plugs and cam seals.
Use ONLY gray sealer.
Change the oil before you start it.
Let it sit overnight to let the gray cure.
Try to "start" it with the igniter disconnected so that you can regain oil pressure before you REALLY start it.
Spring clamps help with the timing belt install.
While you are down there replace your cracked IRIS check valve and brittle hoses.
With a lift and good lighting you can do this in about five hours.















Young Tom would be done by now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek :

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Cam

You do not need anything to seal the waterpump besides the seals. Get a new thermostat though. And use thread lock on the bolts. As far as the a/c pump, iust remove it. purge it first using the relief valve on the driver side. Do this otside and do not lay on the ground for at least 30 minutes after to avoid passing out and getting freon poisoning.

There isn't any such thing as "freon poisoning" And... Let your a/c pump stay right where it is!

Keith

[Cam]

Originally Posted by kwren

There isn't any such thing as "freon poisoning" And... Let your a/c pump stay right where it is!

Keith

http://www.rogerssupply.com/msds/haz...2022fr_D2C.pdf

It may not be commonly referred to as "Freon Poisoning" but it is not safe to inhale the gas. I stand by my recommendation that a fan should be used and adequate ventilation is a REQUIREMENT. Otherwise a person can become quite ill when working with freon.

That is the MSDS for R-12, which is what came standard in our vehicles. If you want to know about R-134a you can look here...

http://www.refrigerants.com/msds/r134a.pdf

[Jake@FAPFab]

Originally Posted by kwren

There isn't any such thing as "freon poisoning" And... Let your a/c pump stay right where it is!

Keith

Yeah no.
chlorofluorocarbons are insanely toxic

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by Jake@FAPFab

Yeah no.
chlorofluorocarbons are insanely toxic

As a chemist, I agree.

[Jvan]

I have two questions. Other than the time/effort to get to the water pump, is there a reason to replace the water pump when replacing the timing belt and is there a high volume/upgrade water pump such as an electric water pump? If I'm going to replace the water pump even if it's still good, I'd like to replace it with an upgrade and not just a stock unit.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Jake@FAPFab

Yeah no.
chlorofluorocarbons are insanely toxic

If you are talking about R-12, Actually they are not. If they were insanely toxic or even toxic, none of us would be here to talk about it. Several generations ago freon was used as a propellant for everything, including hair spray. All the girls and moms and grand-moms would be found in their bathrooms... lying on the floor... dead!

The danger with R-12 was if it released in an area in a great enough quantity to displace the air, and lack of air to breath can cause death... not because it is "insanely toxic"

icingdeath88, Chemist or no Chemist, this is actually the way it is!

Keith

[Cam]

Keith, just because you say or think something does not make it true. Refer back to the MSDS i posted on R-12.

EDIT: Here...

Higher exposures may cause irritation of the upper
respiratory passages, with coughing and discomfort;
temporary nervous system depression with anaesthetic effects
such as dizziness, headache, confusion, incoordination, and
loss of consciousness; temporary alteration of the heart’s
electrical activity with irregular pulse, palpitations, or
inadequate circulation. Gross overexposure may cause
fatality.

[jeffs92svx]

mine is getting done right now. It cost 83 for the belt 80 for the pump and $198 in labor. I figured i would rather spend 200 bucks and get it done instead of messing with it myself. I did my celica and they are a pain in the butt.

[Subix]

Originally Posted by jeffs92svx

mine is getting done right now. It cost 83 for the belt 80 for the pump and $198 in labor. I figured i would rather spend 200 bucks and get it done instead of messing with it myself. I did my celica and they are a pain in the butt.

Trust me... I would much rather spend $200 to have someone do it... but this is not the case. For $425... it's another story. I continue with ripping it apart now... woot.

[Subix]

Awesome. God forbid I make it more than 15 minutes into it before I nudge my power steering line slightly and my car starts bleeding all over the place. +1 for dry rot.

fml