Fifteen minute, $15.00 rear suspension mod.

[James Scott]

Got any pics, Bro?

I have poly bushings in the rear (and front) .. Wud I still use them?

Why can't .. or don't you MOD the fronts.. ?

Sure! .. . I send $$$$$$$ !!! (Pero, poquito solamente, por favor .. )

Thanks..

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by James Scott

Got any pics, Bro?

I have poly bushings in the rear (and front) .. Wud I still use them?

Why can't .. or don't you MOD the fronts.. ?

Sure! .. . I send $$$$$$$ !!! (Pero, poquito solamente, por favor .. )

Thanks..

Pictures and explanations in this thread;

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...nty+Minute+Mod

[Will]

Just got parts for 15 Min Mod from advanced. However one disk seems to be about 2mil thicker than the other. They are both part#31000. Would this make any difference or can I just roll with it?

[svxfiles]

How thick are they?





It should be fine.

[Will]

About "Yay" thick. Thanks!

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by Will

About "Yay" thick. Thanks!

Kids.

I just opened two packages and got 0.34", and 0.32"


The idea is to eleminate the gap/slop in the mounting point.

[Will]

Well this is definitely not a 15min job for a fwd! It appears that I have to take the sway bar loose to get the bracket loose enough to insert the new discs. Does that sound about right? I have a completely different set-up than the one you have pictured.

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by Will

Well this is definitely not a 15min job for a fwd! It appears that I have to take the sway bar loose to get the bracket loose enough to insert the new discs. Does that sound about right? I have a completely different set-up than the one you have pictured.

Take some pics while you're under there if you can, so we know for future reference.

Also, this mod would do very little for a FWD car compared to an AWD car because there's no driveline back there to need stiffening. I mean it couldn't hurt, but you shouldn't expect much.

[Will]

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

Take some pics while you're under there if you can, so we know for future reference.

Also, this mod would do very little for a FWD car compared to an AWD car because there's no driveline back there to need stiffening. I mean it couldn't hurt, but you shouldn't expect much.

Yeah I didn't really think it would have done much for me. Just thought I would give it a try, until I saw what it would consist of. I don't really want to touch that rear sway bar until I'm replacing it with one from Nevin. Maybe then I will give it a try. I will be sure to include pics as well for reference. Thanks for your response!

[kjoyes]

just did the 15 minute mod,
my suggestion would be to use 2 car jacks one for jacking up the car, and the other for jacking up the rear crossmember. the 2nd jack take alot of the pressure off of the bolt when you are taking it off and, when puting the bolt back on it removes the slake. This makes the mod much easier than it already is to do.
Then you don't have to fight with the car, and you can position the rubber spacer to where you want it.

[injuhneer]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

I wanted to reduce the amount of play in the rear crossmember, without the noise or squeeking of hard polyurethane bushings.
In Advance Auto Parts "HELP" section, I came across these steering coupling discs, part # 31000.

SNIP

Install the rubber rings, and the stoppers, and the nuts.
Tighten.
Lower the car and you are done.

Tom.

Well done and simple. Common sense goes a long way.

Now if we can just get the same level of common sense applied to adapting or cross-referencing consumables for our cars all will be well.

-Mike O

[gwynethh]

We are finishing up our cheap suspension mods like poly bushings and the 20$ and 15$ mods. We have a problem with one of the nuts that we need to remove for the 15$ mod. We have tried PB blaster applied over 3 days with no luck. We use a 6 point socket on a normal 3/8" drive ratchet handle extended about a foot for a better pull but no luck. We are a bit concerned about breaking the male threaded piece with a stronger pull. We also don't want to heat the nut being concerned about cooking the rubber parts. We also have tried the suggestion to take the load off the nut by jacking up the arm.

The only idea we have now is to use a dremel and vertically slot the nut to open it up or split it with a small (1" dia.) cut-off wheel. Before we try this do any of you have any other ideas to get this stubborn thing free?

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by gwynethh

Before we try this do any of you have any other ideas to get this stubborn thing free?

Do you have a nut splitter?
Advance Auto Parts has one in their big pipe expander kit.
And they will loan you the kit.

[Tireiron]

Having let it sit longer with the PB, I would still try and heat it a little, but not enough to smoke the bushings. Those are really strong thick bolts and will take a lot to really break. I find with PB, a little bit of heat, and an impact gun it will take them right off. I've actually never needed more than an impact gun for those bolts on any of the subarus I have worked on, and I live in new england, the rust capitol of the world.

[gwynethh]

Well after several days of on and off soaking with PB Blaster and (per a neighbors recommended) Mouse Milk still no luck with an impact gun and my wimpy home use compressor. My neighbor rolled over his old school shop compressor with a bigger delivery hose and success at the same indicated delivery pressure as ours. Still need to get a new nut but that appears to it for this particular saga. Thanx to you all for: 1 the mod idea and 2 all the help getting the little pain in the neck nut free.