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#1
01-24-2008, 02:24 PM
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CV Axle replacement tips
im about to replace the cv axle on the drivers side. does anyone have any hints or tips to help me out? things i should look out for or be prepared for ahead of time that the how-to may not have said? thanks!
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#2
01-24-2008, 03:35 PM
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Cal me and I can walk you through it.
Tom 304-738-0012 301-707-3437
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX,  the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway  Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link
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#3
01-24-2008, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Test the Roll Pin direction before installing. Tom was a big help too, so get him, if you can. Remember not to crank the Axel Nuts down with an air gun tho.
__________________
The Worm  _______________ June '91 Claret LSL #1733, Enkei RS-5's x 16", Original Paint, accompanied by Beautifully speckeled Front Bumper, Sony Audio Components, Small Car Shift Kit, "How to" Hood Lifts {Perfect}, "15 Minute Suspension Mod" Motorsport Floor Mats. Perma-Cool External T. Filter, New Front Axels {1/2008}. "Classic Radiators" unit "$36 coil alternative" and Tranny rebuild at 287k 8/2012 '05 Infinity G35 Coupe. No Mods, 33K Miles
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#4
01-24-2008, 08:38 PM
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While this subject is going, is torque on the front axle nuts also 151 ft-lbs? I'm putting in ball joints this weekend.
Edit: Decided to move my lazy mouse hand and check the how-to's myself. Torque is 123-152 on the front.
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl Last edited by Crazy_pilot; 01-24-2008 at 08:41 PM.
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#5
01-24-2008, 08:45 PM
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I torque them to 150.
If you're doing ball joints, you don't need to take off the axle nut? If you do, take them off, either use a new nut, or make sure that there is enough "stake able" collar to re-stake them properly.
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Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0
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#6
01-24-2008, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
For the ball joints, do you just remove the pinch bolt (in the knuckle), remove the three bolts in the arm, and then pound it straight out? Makes sense. Remove pinch bolt, hammer until ball joint comes out of knuckle, remove the bolts, hammer until bracket comes off. Torch as needed. 
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl
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#7
01-24-2008, 09:03 PM
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Yeah, you have the order right.
Undo the pinch bolt and pound down on the control arm to get the ball joint out of the spindle. Then undo the 3 bolts and you're done.
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Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0
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