SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"

[teamilluminata]

Originally Posted by bazza

I used the original thermostat gasket down the bottom.

For the top setup - mine was a bit nasty and I haven't got around to making it "nice". Will most likely fabricate something up that can handle the required turns and pipe diameter change - plus I've got to put a bypass to the radiator due to the pressure spike I observed. However this is where it is at the moment. Goes from 34mm OD off the cross pipe to 50 mm OD at the radiator so a bit tricky.

Nice. I'm 34mm all the way, just not a lot of "way".

[teamilluminata]

Here's my modified radiator and thermostat housing from Thompson Racing Fabrication. Beautiful.

[SVXRide]

Source for the Al 90 degree pieces they welded in for you?

Thanks.

Bill

[Dessertrunner]

They did a nice job, well done.

[smc]

If your interested in a clear remote mount thermostat housing, so you can see if your getting flow with out a bunch of air: http://www.coolviewthermostat.com/products/universal/

[teamilluminata]

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Source for the Al 90 degree pieces they welded in for you?

Thanks.

Bill

Vibrant I believe Bill. If you want to send them you elbow I'm sure he'll make another. In fact, I have a spare one we could use as a core.

[teamilluminata]

Originally Posted by smc

If your interested in a clear remote mount thermostat housing, so you can see if your getting flow with out a bunch of air: http://www.coolviewthermostat.com/products/universal/

I am but I don;t have anywhere to put 3.5" of thermostat housing. Going to be running without till I figure this out. Perhaps Ryan could integrate this into my radiator.

[BRZCory]

Say, would anyone be interested in these things if I could CNC one out of billet for like $100?

I got 3 of them to hack apart and re-weld, but my boss was like "Why don't we just make them out of a block? Then you don't have to worry about stress or leaks or any of that."

[teamilluminata]

Originally Posted by BRZCory

Say, would anyone be interested in these things if I could CNC one out of billet for like $100?

I got 3 of them to hack apart and re-weld, but my boss was like "Why don't we just make them out of a block? Then you don't have to worry about stress or leaks or any of that."

SE Michigan to the rescue x2!

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by BRZCory

Say, would anyone be interested in these things if I could CNC one out of billet for like $100?

I got 3 of them to hack apart and re-weld, but my boss was like "Why don't we just make them out of a block? Then you don't have to worry about stress or leaks or any of that."

Count me interested either way, and I can send another one if you go the hack apart and re-weld route.

[BRZCory]

Quick question:
1 3/4" or 2" is ideal? (45 or 50mm for reference, but I'll be making them in inches)
1 3/4 is pretty easy
the 2" design would have to be rotated or offset to fit the upper bolt (it would block the bolt)

[shark_22]

Originally Posted by BRZCory

Quick question:
1 3/4" or 2" is ideal? (45 or 50mm for reference, but I'll be making them in inches)
1 3/4 is pretty easy
the 2" design would have to be rotated or offset to fit the upper bolt (it would block the bolt)

On my housing, I use 50mm od(45mm id) and no problem for the bolt

[bazza]

Well after 3 days of track work I think the water cavitation issue unfortunately remains, doh! I was running the following:
* Radiator as big as a house
* 2" inlet to the water pump
* No thermostat, so no restriction coming into the pump
* Coolant temps around 70-75'C, never got hot once

The issue was an air pocket would form in the system after 5+ laps and it was collecting above pump side in the radiator and pushing water out of the system into the overflow. It then wasn't sucking it back in.

For comparison sake my mates had:
* EJ206
* EJ205
* EJ257

None had the air pocket being formed and I know that the 4 cylinder Subaru's NEVER have an issue with the overflow not sucking water back in. You can actually hear them suck it all back as the engine cools down in the pits whilst idling.

This is so annoying as I had to purge the system between sessions that I seriously considered binning my EG33 and going back to the trusty EJ257's because they NEVER have this issue, dammit. However the torque, power and driveability of the turbo EG33 cannot be argued with - it's unbelievably good so I'll persist.

So for my solution, I'm considering putting the radiator in the boot, adding my electric water pump to the outlet and seeing what happens. Bob has already said on Jack's setup they saw and improvement and with my own testing putting a little pump before a big pump I've seen improvements even though it sounds like it wouldn't. The radiator in the boot for my setup is simply so I can run a FMIC and reduce some of the weight my fatty car now has - 1256 kg.

I'm also going to put an air bleed to the header tank so the air can escape from the radiator. I'm also going to add a tee piece with a "tap" so I can easily drain the system of air if required.

I'll update when it's all working.

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by teamilluminata

Vibrant I believe Bill. If you want to send them you elbow I'm sure he'll make another. In fact, I have a spare one we could use as a core.

That would be great! I've got a spare stat cover I could send you to replace your cover. Can you PM me your email addy and the address I should ship the cover to?

Thanks.

Bill

[SVXRide]

Bazza,

Well, that's a kick in the butt! What's the pressure setting on the rad cap? Is there really anywhere else in the system you could be pulling air in other than through the overflow tube? I know the EG33 has always been sensitive to how it's filled in order to prevent clearing any air in the system in the first place (figure you already know this and filled accordingly, thus my pointing to the rad cap).

Bill

Originally Posted by bazza

Well after 3 days of track work I think the water cavitation issue unfortunately remains, doh! I was running the following:
* Radiator as big as a house
* 2" inlet to the water pump
* No thermostat, so no restriction coming into the pump
* Coolant temps around 70-75'C, never got hot once

The issue was an air pocket would form in the system after 5+ laps and it was collecting above pump side in the radiator and pushing water out of the system into the overflow. It then wasn't sucking it back in.

For comparison sake my mates had:
* EJ206
* EJ205
* EJ257

None had the air pocket being formed and I know that the 4 cylinder Subaru's NEVER have an issue with the overflow not sucking water back in. You can actually hear them suck it all back as the engine cools down in the pits whilst idling.

This is so annoying as I had to purge the system between sessions that I seriously considered binning my EG33 and going back to the trusty EJ257's because they NEVER have this issue, dammit. However the torque, power and driveability of the turbo EG33 cannot be argued with - it's unbelievably good so I'll persist.

So for my solution, I'm considering putting the radiator in the boot, adding my electric water pump to the outlet and seeing what happens. Bob has already said on Jack's setup they saw and improvement and with my own testing putting a little pump before a big pump I've seen improvements even though it sounds like it wouldn't. The radiator in the boot for my setup is simply so I can run a FMIC and reduce some of the weight my fatty car now has - 1256 kg.

I'm also going to put an air bleed to the header tank so the air can escape from the radiator. I'm also going to add a tee piece with a "tap" so I can easily drain the system of air if required.

I'll update when it's all working.