eg33 misfiring and sputtering at random times (have video)

[chimmychongaz]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQZQZfkRPBQ

Ran fine for first few weeks. Then it would randomly lose power while driving or just sitting at a red light. When I press the gas pedal, the RPMs will drop, when I let off, the RPMs will surge up (in a tapping the pedal type manner).

If I hold the pedal down, it has troubles trying to rev and sounds as if it's misfiring or not getting fuel.

This happens intermittently and randomly (cold engine or warm engine). No CELs. It's happening more commonly over the past week. I was only finally able to get a video of it because it did it in the driveway today without even having to drive it.

It won't stall unless I let it idle for a few seconds. Has no problem starting, it will start every time. But most of the time I can still fire it up and drive to work with no problem.

When it happens when I'm driving, it only last a few seconds usually and then goes away and I'm able to drive home like nothing happend. Sometimes, it won't go away and I have to turn my car off for a few moments.

-new spark plugs
-cleaned MAF, didn't work. Opened it up to check solder points, they were fine.
-EGR works perfectly.
-New fuel pump.
-cleaned dirt off of Crank sensors and Cam sensor
-Grounds are good and connected, even did the extra grounding mod.
-I've tried wiggling wires to death to see if something is loose, to no avail.

It's hard to check voltage range for the sensors when the car is running like this because it won't idle by itself for very long and I usually have no one around me to keep it going while I try. When the car is running fine, everything is in spec.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[SoCal LS-L]

Swap in a known good MAF, mainly because it happens intermittently, in closed and open loop... and you can immediately restart it. A MAF sensor can be bad and still have good solder connections.

[torxxx]

I will second the MAF problem. I've seen this many times on soobs (not just the SVX). I was having the same problems with mine and luckily just cleaning it took care of it (on my SVX) If you have a spare, swap it and test drive.

[chimmychongaz]

I don't have another. And Subaru's in general (especially the svx and parts) aren't common in this area.

I do have one from a ej18 that worked fine, but I don't know if that is usable for this motor. I read somewhere that even though there are different part numbers that the MAFs are the same. But I'm not too sure on that.

Anyone got one for sale?? I can only do paypal and shipped to 32507.

[lhopp77]

I don't see where you ran diagnostic codes. Do this first BEFORE you start replacing and buying different parts. Go to the How To Section and look up the procedures.

Actually sounds like a cam sensor to me, but if it is the codes would indicate that.

Lee

[chimmychongaz]

There hasn't been any CELs, and nothing when I pull from the memory.

[Cam]

It sounds like it could be an coil maybe. Have you checked for spark on all your ignition wires?

[subarufamily]

mine did same thing before, swapped mafs, fixored it right up

[chimmychongaz]

Originally Posted by Cam

It sounds like it could be an coil maybe. Have you checked for spark on all your ignition wires?

Not yet. I'm dreading it since they are pretty hard to reach in my car. I'll be swamped with work until the weekend, I'll do it then and post with the results.

Any other testing of sorts that anyone would recommend?

Also yesterday, I took off my Crank Angle sensors and saw that they were pretty covered in oily dirt. I cleaned them off with a dry paper towel and it sounded like my car would idle and rev a lot smoother (when it runs right), but it still after a few minutes it started to do it's failure thing. I did notice that on one of the sensors, the metal covering to it (cylinder shaped piece that goes in to the block) was able to move from side to side, as in spin a little bit. The other side was stationary. Is that okay, or a bad sensor?

[lhopp77]

Originally Posted by chimmychongaz

Not yet. I'm dreading it since they are pretty hard to reach in my car. I'll be swamped with work until the weekend, I'll do it then and post with the results.

Any other testing of sorts that anyone would recommend?

Also yesterday, I took off my Crank Angle sensors and saw that they were pretty covered in oily dirt. I cleaned them off with a dry paper towel and it sounded like my car would idle and rev a lot smoother (when it runs right), but it still after a few minutes it started to do it's failure thing. I did notice that on one of the sensors, the metal covering to it (cylinder shaped piece that goes in to the block) was able to move from side to side, as in spin a little bit. The other side was stationary. Is that okay, or a bad sensor?

You say no CELs and that you have check codes, but have you actually followed the procedures in these instructions??

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/14337.doc

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/14340.doc

Believe me if you have followed these instructios and you have any of the problems that you indicate---YOU WILL HAVE SOME CODES!!! (This assumes that you have a 92-95 SVX)

If you have not actually done this--do it.

Lee

[chimmychongaz]

I didn't know there was any other way to check the codes.

Yes, I have done those procedures, minus the TCU procedures as I have a 5spd. No CEL when symptoms are happening, and nothing stored. If you need proof, I can make a video or whatever you want showing no codes be thrown. Then of my trying to pull non-existent codes while engine is on. Then of me trying to pull non-existent codes from the memory.

[Cam]

Originally Posted by chimmychongaz

Not yet. I'm dreading it since they are pretty hard to reach in my car. I'll be swamped with work until the weekend, I'll do it then and post with the results.

Any other testing of sorts that anyone would recommend?

Also yesterday, I took off my Crank Angle sensors and saw that they were pretty covered in oily dirt. I cleaned them off with a dry paper towel and it sounded like my car would idle and rev a lot smoother (when it runs right), but it still after a few minutes it started to do it's failure thing. I did notice that on one of the sensors, the metal covering to it (cylinder shaped piece that goes in to the block) was able to move from side to side, as in spin a little bit. The other side was stationary. Is that okay, or a bad sensor?

Are you referring to your knock sensors? If so they will make your engine lean out the air:fuel ratio. This could cause some of the conditions you have described, I suppose. Could be worth a try.

[chimmychongaz]

No. These were the two sensors that are side by side, sitting directly above the crank pulley.

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by lhopp77

Believe me if you have followed these instructios and you have any of the problems that you indicate---YOU WILL HAVE SOME CODES!!! (This assumes that you have a 92-95 SVX)

If you have not actually done this--do it.

Lee

OBD-I is notorious for being a bit blind to component failure.... and it can only detect electrical failure in most cases, not mechanical. Most of the sensors do not have 3rd signal wires so their ECU cant detect if the sensor or control valve is at a correct position for the setting given.

Basically if an OBD-I system gives you a correct code for the failing component, you are lucky.

[chimmychongaz]

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

OBD-I is notorious for being a bit blind to component failure.... and it can only detect electrical failure in most cases, not mechanical.

I was wondering why "open/short circuit" was the only reason provided when looking at codes for the sensors.