Checked the oil and now it won't start

lsupcar · #1 07-04-2015, 10:57 AM

Well, a little bit more to it then that but not much.
Now it cranks good and strong but won't fire, like it is getting no fuel.
Before that, the car started and drove perfectly. Decided to check tire pressure. Then to check oil level. Then to check tranny fluid. Start car fine to do that. While it was running I hear a ticking sound like a spark jumping up near the alternator. I have heard this before many months ago and never found the source so thought I would look again. To get a better view I removed the belt shroud. Started the car back up and looked for a spark, even using a mirror to loot behind the alternator. Can't find it. Turn off car and replace shroud. Now car will only crank and not start.
I can't find any displaced wires or hoses and checked fuses 14 and 16 under the dash and they are fine. There is a "u" shaped hose to the left of the alternator coming out from under the intake manifold that in my search for a displaced hose or wire that I moved to to the side and it appears to have a loose connection to its attached pipe. I don't feel this is pertinent to the no start issue but may have to take care of that now.
I suspect it is a simple fix but I am now stuck as to what to check.
Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks.
Bill Z.
Ps. 92 lSL

lsupcar · #2 07-04-2015, 06:59 PM

Update with more info.
Removed the fuel line from the fuel filter, and with the key in "on" and while cranking fuel flows out rapidly.
Removed the electrical connector from one of the fuel injectors and with the key in "on" and while cranking there was 11.7 volts.
Still cranks strong but no combustion at all.
Bill Z

wdb · #3 07-05-2015, 05:07 AM

I have no specific advice, but if I had taken the belt shroud off and then replaced it and my car wouldn't start afterwards, I would be looking intensely at everything in that vicinity.

fasteract7 · #4 07-05-2015, 08:17 AM

Checked every fuse...? Connector going to alternator (not the top, shrouded ring connector..one on PS side of alt. ) not showing shorted, broken wires?

lsupcar · #5 07-05-2015, 11:40 AM

Thanks for the thoughts.
I only checked the two fuses I mentioned as I thought those were the only ones pertinent to starting the car. I guess I should just go ahead and check them all.
While I was looking around the alt. with the mirror the car remained running with no problems. Then wouldn't restart after I turned it off to replace the shroud. Is there a connector around the alternator that is messed up would allow strong cranking but no combustion? The PS side of the alt. was where I was placing the mirror so I will check that connection. Can you check for proper alt. function if the car isn't running, only cranking?
Thanks.

gwynethh · #6 07-05-2015, 08:21 PM

Would the plug connector to the alternator cause this (anyone)? The two wires there get very brittle. We found ours cracked and missing insulation while doing the alt. wiring update/mod. Got a fresh plug off eBay and replaced the wires with engine compartment rated wiring. Also sleeved the two wires for further protection.

fasteract7 · #7 07-06-2015, 08:00 AM

You checked the fuel so I guess the next step would be to see if the plugs are getting juice. I have used the "remove easiest coil over to get to and insert spare plug, crank while grounding plug" to see if they light up.

A faulty alternator per se shouldn't prevent the car from starting if the battery is charged. I have heard of, on the other Forum, of the wiring gywneth mentioned deteriorating/shorting/breaking causing the fusible link to blow ( but car wouldn't crank, right?) or blowing other related fuses.

The "clicking" you heard originally near the alternator is maybe the key ?...was this your cam/crank sensor failing...these could certainly keep the car from starting. You would think a code would be thrown...have you downloaded your codes to see if anything is stored? Your CEL light comes on with the Ign. ON, right? Have heard of sensors starting to fail w/o a code..maybe the engine not being able to start now will prevent that code from showing.

A Search will show you where these 2 sensors are( both are under/near the alternator)..would check connectors at least , some have removed them to see pieces of metal debris on their magnet ends. No real way to test them w/o an oscilloscope...

1986nate · #8 07-06-2015, 12:55 PM

Just gonna put this out there, If you haven't replaced the coolant temperature sensor in any amount of time that you can remember, I'd start there. Typically defaults to reading "hot" and won't put in enough fuel to start the car on a cold start. And no, it won't throw a CEL on a 92, or at least most likely will not.
Not saying it is the fault as you have no prior issues it seems. But I'd put the odds out there.

Has it ever taken a few extra cranks to fire up from a cold start vs going to the store, coming out and it fires up quicker?

lsupcar · #9 07-06-2015, 02:13 PM

Thanks guys.
Still no start.
The wires to the left of the alt. do look old and brittle but no apparent damage and I would think the car should start even if the alt. were inoperable.
The engine is obviously now cold, but when it first failed to start, it was at normal operating temp. And in the past always started right up with but a half a second of cranking.
The CEL lights up with the key "on", but does not flash, so I did not think there would be a code. I guess I can check anyway.
Does the crank sensor fail as an immediate total failure?
The sound I heard and had heard several months earlier was a tick type sound that made me think of a spark jumping a gap. Thus I was looking for a blue spark in a dark garage. When I heard it several months earlier, I couldn't trace its location and thought one of the coil packs might have been shorting out. The car has always run smoothly however with no missing, so when nothing was obvious I just forgot about it. With the hood closed you could not hear it. May be a red herring in regard to the current no start issue.
Thanks.
Btw, I checked every fuse and they are all ok.

lsupcar · #10 07-06-2015, 07:45 PM

Well I tested for codes and got #11 =crank angle sensor 1, and #14=injector 1.
Would a bad crank angle sensor 1 cause this crank but no start problem?
Thanks.

huck369 · #11 07-07-2015, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsupcar

Well I tested for codes and got #11 =crank angle sensor 1, and #14=injector 1.
Would a bad crank angle sensor 1 cause this crank but no start problem?
Thanks.

Yes, try unplugging both the Crank Angle Sensors and plugging them back in (they are kind of under the alternator) and see if that starts it back up...sometimes it can be a bad connection.....A Legacy/Impreza Crank Angle Sensor can be modded to work in the SVX (They are MUCH Cheaper)

fasteract7 · #12 07-07-2015, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsupcar

Well I tested for codes and got #11 =crank angle sensor 1, and #14=injector 1.
Would a bad crank angle sensor 1 cause this crank but no start problem?
Thanks.

Maybe you're on to it !! The CEL BTW doesn't flash when activated with IGN...just stays ON with car running. Downloading the codes gives you the flash action to read the errors. Would certainly pursue the crank sensor code...

Can Huck point towards the post talking about the Legacy part being used?

lsupcar · #13 07-07-2015, 05:58 PM

Checked the crank angle sensor #1 on an oscilloscope and it looks bad. Checked sensor #2 and it looked good.
Called the dealer parts guy. The part is NLA from the factory. Will need to look used or aftermarket.
Or a modified legacy part would be good. I searched but did not find a pertinent thread. Any guidance would be great.
Thanks.
Bill

fasteract7 · #14 07-07-2015, 06:10 PM

RockAuto lists an aftermarket crank sensor..expensive bugger. You might try the "other" Forum site to see if someone there has a used unit besides here. I'll ask there if you want since I have a part ordered/pending from a member.

Subaru Part # 22053 AA020 (crank sensor) what you call sensor #1 below, right?
#22056 AA030 (cam sensor) sensor #2, the "good one"

lsupcar · #15 07-07-2015, 07:13 PM

Yes, 22053AA020 is the part number I need.
The other sensor I tested was the one right next to it under the alt. that the manual call #2. I don't know that number.
Yes, the part is expensive. The local Advance auto says they can get it for $258, in 2 days.
I don't know about any other web site, but if you have access to other part sources I would like to hear about them.
I appreciate the help.