Want to repaint mine... Some questions...

Stilor · #1 05-03-2010, 02:06 PM

Hi all,

I thought I was going to bite the bullet and have my SVX repainted. I stopped at a 3 paint shops over this weekend. Two of them gave a quote between $3K and $4K. However, one of these shops (which, by the way was highest rated in reviews on yelp and praised for honesty towards their customers) said it would be between $6K and $8K. They said that it's more expensive since for a quality repaint, they need to remove the glass (instead of just masking it), remove the sunroof, spoiler, etc. They claimed they cannot give a warranty unless they do all these removals and reassembly.

Now, I have set aside up to $4K for that paintjob, but I also wanted it to be good. Does removal of the glass make any sense for the paintjob? Or is it just some BS to charge some extra? I am yet to go back to other shops to check what they planned to remove and paint separately.

Also, I'd appreciate any recommendations for paint shops in south Bay Area. I know there are not so many of SVX owners here, but anyway...

SilverSpear · #2 05-03-2010, 02:16 PM

Well removing the glass is always the best way to go on a paintjob. But 6~8K is waaaaaaaay too much IMHO.

BoxerFanatic · #3 05-03-2010, 03:30 PM

Wow, that is a big number.

Do they offer a warranty about replacing the glass if they break the glass in the procedure of removing it all? SVX has a lot of curved, fixed glass... that is a lot of hours, and a lot of effort and risk of glass breakage.

I would definitely be all about removing trim around the windows, and using trim tape to peel-back the rubber seals, removal of the spoiler, etc... but I would make sure that the shop has things covered if they break the glass, or if the glass isn't re-installed correctly after the job is done.

Is it going to be a color change, or a re-fresh with the same color?

Stilor · #4 05-03-2010, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoxerFanatic

Do they offer a warranty about replacing the glass if they break the glass in the procedure of removing it all? SVX has a lot of curved, fixed glass... that is a lot of hours, and a lot of effort and risk of glass breakage.

Well, that's exactly what they said - that it's a lot of labor to remove the glass. I didn't explicitly ask about insurance, given that $6K was above the budget anyway.

The question is whether repaints without glass removal are good enough, or will the new paint peel in a couple of years?

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoxerFanatic

I would definitely be all about removing trim around the windows, and using trim tape to peel-back the rubber seals, removal of the spoiler, etc... but I would make sure that the shop has things covered if they break the glass, or if the glass isn't re-installed correctly after the job is done.

... in which case, it's going to take some time before I can swallow $6-8K bill. Or, find a decent shop that could make it within the budget.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoxerFanatic

Is it going to be a color change, or a re-fresh with the same color?

Well, I have not made a final decision. I sort of like her black as she is, but I also entertain the idea of making her two-color, lower part being the color named "daytona sunset orange" in Corvettes. Tried to do that in my photo editor:

Blacky · #5 05-03-2010, 05:58 PM

I don't think glass removal is a necessity, especially for that price. Removing the spoiler and all the cladding, bumpers etc would be a good thing. I like that orange, very cool.

sunvalleyray · #6 05-03-2010, 07:22 PM

The shop that repainted my car suggested removing all the glass which I agreed with. For that kind of money (6 to 8K) I would think you are receiving a show car quality job. Have you seen paint jobs from all the shops you visited? Usually you get what you pay for. Good luck and I cannot wait to see the end results.

Sunvalleyray

SilverSpear · #7 05-03-2010, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stilor

The question is whether repaints without glass removal are good enough, or will the new paint peel in a couple of years?

It is not an issue of peeling more than an issue of humidity forming between the glass rubber seal and the metal panels.

sowise · #8 05-04-2010, 04:41 AM

About 10 years ago I paid 5k to have my 'Cuda painted but it also needed some welding on the body panels as well. It was a little shop in BFE Maryland and the paint job was just ok. They did not remove the glass and even though I had the interior gutted they didn't spray anything there even though I had asked them too. I was younger and didn't care because I just wanted it back as soon as possible and some of the defects I didn't notice until I went to wax it.

A guy in my office had his late 70's mustang painted and he spent 20k, you would think total show quality but his choice of color kind of sucked haha but he did end up having the shop go back over multiple times because he wasn't happy with differnent parts. It took about 8 months for that paint job.

Another guy from the office had the lower cladding on his Audi A4 painted (stock was grey plastic) I believe he spent $500 and it was a perfect paint match and to this day still looks great!

Friend took a Mitsu Eclipse that was black with the oxidizing hood and roof common problem for that current model and year range (not sure exactly 2001?) They took it to Maaco and for $300 it looks great.

All in all yes you get what you pay for but I have seen expensive ones look bad and cheap ones look good. I think it is more based on the shop and how good they prep the surface. There are some on this forum who have pretty decent DIY jobs too. I won't pay over $2500 ever again for paint but that is just me.

SilverSpear · #9 05-04-2010, 05:53 AM

Alex just remembered since you might attempt a color change. I dunno if you have seen the read mentioning the rare Swiss Ruby Mica color... but I suggest you consider it:

The color formula can be found HERE.

I will be attempting to get the countercolor numbers in RM brand...

SVX_MY_BABY · #10 05-04-2010, 06:01 AM

I had mine repainted a couple of years back. Changed the colour. Paid just over 3K. It looks good but when you really get up close you can see lots of little things which should not be there. Only a critical eye would notice.

No glass was removed and you'd never know when you look around the edges.

Pointers. Be sure to spell out in niggling detail what you want done on every panel. For example; trunk lid to be removed and area around trunk seal and rear light to have same finish and quality as exterior. Door jambs & sills to have same finish and quality as exterior. etc. If you want trim removed, the gaskets/seals/clips often rip/break. Spec whether you want them replaced or reused or to check with you first. This can be done after everything is off. Some are quite expensive. The plastic clips which hold our door seals on are different than most. Make sure the right ones are used to replace them. There are different grades of paint from each manufacturer. Spec the one you want. Same for clear coats. I used Dupont and chose their show grade clear.

Spec that you want the car painted as one continuous job. Not to be done as an on again off again project between other jobs. Many shops treat painting as a way to take up slack. The lag between work creates problems of continuity as many people work on the job at varying times.

Be sure to give it a good light test before you pick it up. IE look along all lines of the car in proper and various light to see that there is no waviness in the sanding, orange peel in the finish, variation in the metal flake etc etc. Get a time period clearly defined during which you can report deficiencies.

The only other thing I can say is that a few months after getting your car back you will have stone chips and other driver hazard blemishes regardless of the cost and quality of the paint. The repaint will not stand up like the factory one and chips will look worse. Keep that in the back of your mind.

BoxerFanatic · #11 05-04-2010, 09:37 AM

You might ask someone about this...

http://catalogue.3m.eu/en_eu/eu-aad/...m_Masking_Tape

Quote:

3M™ Trim Masking Tape
Developed for masking the rubber trim on bonded screens and sealed windows. A small plastic strip is pushed behind the rubber and a 38mm self-adhesive tape is folded back and stuck to the window to hold the rubber clear of the paintwork.
• Protects rubber from overspray.
• Easy to mask around corners.
• Excellent temperature performance.
• Available in 4 widths from 5mm-15mm to cover all different types of rubber trim.

I wonder if that would be a sufficient option, to peel back the rubber trim around the glass, instead of actually removing the glass itself.

Of course what trim that can be possibly removed without trouble, should be... but saving a lot of labor of removing and re-mounting fixed glass would be sizable labor cost savings.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVX_MY_BABY

The only other thing I can say is that a few months after getting your car back you will have stone chips and other driver hazard blemishes regardless of the cost and quality of the paint. The repaint will not stand up like the factory one and chips will look worse. Keep that in the back of your mind.

I have often wondered about that... I know that aftermarket paint can be a bit soft, and often isn't baked like factory paint... but low VOC factory paint is starting to suck, as well, in terms of sandpaper grade paint-chips.

Personally, if I really, really like the paint job... I'd let it cure and out-gass for a while, and keep the car sheltered, until the paint is cured enough to stand up to having clear-bra installed. I also wonder if there are any good clear-coats that have superior hardness, and can stand up.

Can anyone in the aftermarket paint with Nissan's self-healing paint technology? That might be an option.

dcarrb · #12 05-05-2010, 05:50 AM

Question: How much does it cost to build a three-bedroom house?

Answer: As much as you wish to spend.

I think it's the same with having a car painted.

About a year ago I went looking for a quote to have my teal painted; same color, no rust, no collision repair, typical minor chips and dings. The first place I went, a local sole-proprietorship with a reputation for doing (his own) show-worthy restorations, wouldn't quote. The guy dismissed me with a wave and said he does only "collision repair." Wouldn't even come out to look. The message I took away was, repaint customers are a PITA. Another local "body shop" sang the very same tune but said one of their employees painted cars in a shed behind his house.

So I went to a joint in a nearby town which, judging by an ad I'd seen, focuses primarily on street rod/custom work. Made an appointment with the owner. He actually seemed interested in doing business, came out with a clipboard, and spent several minutes examining the car. I told him upfront that I didn't have a show car budget but wanted it done "right." He said they'd remove the door handles and such (no mention of glass), take the (badly worn/oxidized) hood, roof, and trunk down to the bare surface, fill the chips and dings, paint and clear-coat, even buff-out the headlights and sandblast and repaint the wheels. Quote: $1800 and change. Said if I'd drop it off Monday morning I could pick her up the following Monday.

That sounded good to me, but other priorities and concerns intervened and both of my cars still need painting. Gotta do something soon if I'm to keep them, though, and this expense coupled with the prospect of a blown head gasket or shiftless automatic in the near future are really gnawing at my gut. If I drop serious money on a car I MUST keep driving it. Simple economics for a man of modest means. So I keep thinking, well, this guy does take credit cards.

dcb