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#1
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wheel bearing re-grease?
I've ordered two rear wheel bearing from 1stSubaruParts.com The fellow there says my mechanic does NOT need to use different grease than they come packed with! Has something changed? I thought the bearings HAD to be re-greased and that this was a primary reason so many failed. What's the real story?
Also, does my mechanic need any special tools he might not normally have to do the bearing job? |
#2
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...AGAIN I would take no chances and have them cleaned, dried (not with a compressor) and repacked with the highest grade synthetic wheel bearing grease I could find.
But that's just me! ![]() Good Luck! May your bearings last 100K miles!
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' 92 SVX @ 185K ' 91 420SEL @ 223K! ' 88 420SEL I. @ 178K (what a buy!) ' 87 F250 @ 180K ' 93 ZX-11D @ 29K ' 93 SC400 @ 93K 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6.6K (Brynhild) Y2K NightHawk 250 @ 1,500 miles ' 88 420SEL II. @ 208K '85 F150 @ 135K |
#3
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I've heard repeatedly that the bearings come with shipping (only) grease. I just did my rear bearings. I used Redline (red) bearing grease because I think their products are about as good as it gets.
The problem for me was to clean the old grease off and get the bearings clean before placing quality grease. Find out from someone on this site or from a good mechanic - HOW TO CLEAN OLD GREASE OFF AND DRY EFFECTIVELY? I used a HubTamer - Quite a job. BUT, quiet now! HAVE FUN! ![]() P.S. I think primary reason given for failure is poor engineering (too small of a bearing). But, using shipping grease in car has certainly been mentioned numerous times. Also, overtorqueing bolts, like (long) lateral arm bolts - or even lug bolts!
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Jim 1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) - "ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13) 2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System> ECUTune Stage 1av1 Upgrade (from 1v4)> ECUTune TCU MOD> Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley> Stainless Brake Lines> Phenolic Spacers> Perforated Brake Rotors (dint like, OEM now)> SmallCar Shift Kit (resting since TCU MOD)> 7-Position Ground System> High-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (resting)> ATF Cooler & Campaign Filter> Yellow Polish Polyurethane Bushings> Pioneer Double-DIN Stereo with JL AUDIO Speakers> Driveshaft Rebuilt with C-Clip U-Joints> 15 Min MOD> 20 Min MOD .. . (2011) ![]() ![]() Last edited by James Scott; 05-01-2003 at 05:19 PM. |
#4
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poor engineering, subaru's are notorius for bad wheel bearings, it spans all of them
and they're a sealed bearing, they sereously should not be opened, or regreased, they come sealed to the elements, openeing them will only break the seal, and allow dirt and such to get inside but if you want to risk it, go for it, as for how to clean and such, iduno
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SV What? |
#5
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Quote:
Mike |
#6
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Back in my auto shop days I was taught to pack the bearings from one side until you see the new color of the grease come up through the top. It is of my opinion that this would be enough as far as getting the old grease out. I'll let you know tomorrow, as I will be packing mine first thing in the morning.
Blue ![]() |
#7
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#8
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Re: RE-GREASE
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#9
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Use a bearing packer like Eastwood's Universal Roller Bearing Packer Item No. - 49039 www.eastwoodco.com
then you can pump grease through the bearing cleaning out the old grease along the way. Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#10
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You clean out the old packing grease with solvent (i.e. as in "parts washer") and air-dry (a blower, hairdrier) vs. using compressed air (higher pressures can damage the bearings) and pack them, either by hand (palm, actually) or with a bearing packer as mentioned above with THE BEST SYNTHETIC BEARING GREASE you can find.
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' 92 SVX @ 185K ' 91 420SEL @ 223K! ' 88 420SEL I. @ 178K (what a buy!) ' 87 F250 @ 180K ' 93 ZX-11D @ 29K ' 93 SC400 @ 93K 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6.6K (Brynhild) Y2K NightHawk 250 @ 1,500 miles ' 88 420SEL II. @ 208K '85 F150 @ 135K |
#11
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I've had 6 bearings put on my car.
The first four (2 on each side) didn't last 10,000 miles. Either they were not regreased, or torqued properly, despite me stressing it to the mechanic. The last two have been on the car for 25,000 and 15,000 miles respectively. No problems yet, because I've had to watch them like a hawk when installing. ![]() Grease matters, FOR SURE. Torque matters, FOR SURE. Now if only my tires were quieter... ![]() VK |
#12
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According to the factory service manual the bearings come with shell 6459n grease in them and can be further greaseed with the same during installation; however, other greases can not be mixed with this grease. If you are not using shell 6459n which i'm guessing you aren't then you must remove the factory grease and start a new.
I'm affraid the quality of mechanic service has gotten so bad you really need to take it on yourself to make sure the job is done right. You should never mix different bearing greases but I'm sure most of the mechanics that have done the bearing changes so many people complain about did just that, slobbed on whatever grease they had there on top of the factory grease. Right after they didn't replace the old races, or didn't pay attention to which race came off of which side of the bearing, and right before they impropperly torqued down the axle nut without replacing it with a new one and caulking it. The factory wheel bearings seem to have lasted us all many many miles. There may be better bearing systems around today but when the new bearings are lasting 1/10th as long as the factory installed bearings I think the recurring bearing failure has to be mainly attributed to poor workmanship. Watch your mechanic if you have to. At the least tell him to pay attention to which side of the bearing which race came off of (that means he has to pay attention to how he sets down each part of the new bearing) and to clean and repack them. If he gives you attitude about using a torque wrench don't ever go there again. You can't even put the wheels back on the svx without using a torque wrench. just my opinion |
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