Underdrive pulley installation

rob_4187 · #1 11-15-2004, 10:25 AM

Does anyone have pictures and/or instructions on how they installed their underdrive pulley? Local shops want $150+ to do it and they all swear the radiator has to come out, but the guys from Motorsport Warehouse said they didnt (and since nobody here as even heard of a Subaru SVX, I'm gonna take their word for it). Are there any special tools needed other than everyday tools? Thanks -rOB

AFBeefcake · #2 11-15-2004, 10:41 AM

I pulled one of the fans out, but that was it.

BordeauxComet · #3 11-15-2004, 11:44 AM

not sure about the pulley, but if you have to take out fans or the radiator it's real easy. No special tools.

cbx-man · #4 11-15-2004, 02:08 PM

The reason they want to take out the radiator is so they can use an air-impact whench to remove the bolt holding the pulley. There isn't enough room unless they do. Subaru has a special tool to hold the pulley ( notice the 4 holes inside it ) while the nut is loosened. A strap wrench is usually not enough to hold the pulley, and will probably destroy the stuff that holds the 2 pcs of our stock pulley together.

I made my own special tool out of a 2x6 and some 5/16" steel rod.

svxfiles · #5 11-15-2004, 02:15 PM

Rob, take a 7/8" six point one half inch drive socket, install it on a breaker bar, WITH THE ENGINE OFF, put the socket on the pulley bolt. Be careful, and hit the breaker bar from the drivers side spinning (counter-clockwise)the bolt loose. Now loosen the AC + PS belts, take them off. With the crankshaft pulley bolt removed, just wiggle the factory pulley off. Slip the new pulley on, and tighten it as much as you can. Install the new shorter belts, and drive away happy.

My first time was 30 minutes.

Just make sure you do the alternator mod so your lights are still bright.

#6 11-15-2004, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by svxfiles
Rob, take a 7/8" six point one half inch drive socket, install it on a breaker bar, WITH THE ENGINE OFF, put the socket on the pulley bolt. Be careful, and hit the breaker bar from the drivers side spinning (counter-clockwise)the bolt loose. Now loosen the AC + PS belts, take them off. With the crankshaft pulley bolt removed, just wiggle the factory pulley off. Slip the new pulley on, and tighten it as much as you can. Install the new shorter belts, and drive away happy.
My first time was 30 minutes.

Just make sure you do the alternator mod so your lights are still bright.

Anh... I wouldn't do it that way. It's very important to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the specified amount (~120 ft/lbs I think). Use a breaker bar and a six-point socket that fits the bolt (22mm, I think). Remove all the drive belts and radiator fans.

Now, take a 2x4, and cut an inverted wedge shape in the end. Stand it vertically on the driver's side of the car (next to the battery), and put the breaker bar in the 2x4. Go inside the car, and using just a flick of the wrist, turn the key to the start position. You don't want to start the car... Just use the engine to break the bolt loose for you. Unscrew the bolt, change the pulley, and reattach.

As for tightening down the bolt, I used a fairly long and strong (that's right, I said it) slotted screwdriver to brace the flywheel against the crossmember under the car. You can then tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt all day long, until it reaches its spec. You may need to attached a long pipe to the end of a torque wrench to get the appropriate leverage, cause that bolt has to be really tight.

rob_4187 · #7 11-15-2004, 04:19 PM

Thanks for the help guys. Hopefully i'll get around to doing that tomorrow. Anymore input is appreciated.

rob_4187 · #8 11-16-2004, 05:55 PM

Will i have to use one of those strobe guns to get the timing right when i change belts?

AFBeefcake · #9 11-16-2004, 06:00 PM

NO, your not removeing the timeing belt and if you did you would not use a timeing light on a eg33.

immortal_suby · #10 11-16-2004, 06:02 PM

You can use a strap wrench to hold the pulley while you tighten it since you are using a 1 piece pulley. I had no problem getting a rubber strap wrench to hold tight enough to torque it to spec.

rob_4187 · #11 11-16-2004, 07:22 PM

How can i deternie the lbs/ft?

svxfiles · #12 11-16-2004, 08:54 PM

With a torque wrench.
Here's an inexpencive one,

Craftsman Beam Torque Wrench

Sears item #00944642000
Mfr. model #44642 $24.99
Reg. $29.99
Save $5.00
Sale ends 11/20/04
Rebate details

Buy online. Pick up in store

rob_4187 · #13 11-17-2004, 08:27 AM

Sweet. I can buy it and use it then give it to my dad for Christmas. Thats really cheap too!

Landshark · #14 11-17-2004, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by rob_4187
Sweet. I can buy it and use it then give it to my dad for Christmas. Thats really cheap too!

you'll need it to tighten your lug nuts, but you can always borrow it from Dad i guess.

nordique14 · #15 11-17-2004, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by svxfiles
With a torque wrench.
Here's an inexpencive one,
Craftsman Beam Torque Wrench

I'm not a big fan of the beam torque wrench. It is had to get an exact reading. That's not as important at higher torque, but at low torque settings, being off a few lbs-ft is a big deal. I picked up a good one that goesd from 10-100lbs-ft for about $60 from Home Depot.

Matt