should i go with this?

B 4 You · #1 08-16-2011, 12:35 AM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...ht_2743wt_1167

i'm not looking for any upgrades. mine are just shot. this is all 4 pads and rotors. the seller is 99.8% positive.

anyone else care to pitch in a similar priced deal? i could get this on r1 concepts, but they aren't cross-drilled, they're just OEM. plus a little more pricey. all your input, whether telling me to buy it or telling me i'm an idiot, is appreciated. :]

edit: similar posting: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBAR...#ht_3584wt_958

icingdeath88 · #2 08-16-2011, 01:43 AM

What's on your car now? If whatever you're using is "normal" and hasn't gotten warped with your driving style, then you probably can get away with the drilled/slotted Ebay special.

SVX_MY_BABY · #3 08-16-2011, 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

What's on your car now? If whatever you're using is "normal" and hasn't gotten warped with your driving style, then you probably can get away with the drilled/slotted Ebay special.

What he said. $200.00 is a heck of a price. If they don't work out I guess you're out 8 pizza dinners for 2.

B 4 You · #4 08-16-2011, 07:53 AM

i don't even have a clue. they were "new from the dealer" when i got them, and are warped as hell. i can't stand it. i've heard drilled + slotted help with not warping. is this true or just false marketing? pretty much anything at this point is better...

Huskymaniac · #5 08-16-2011, 08:10 AM

I have looked into this warping issue and there are lots of contradicting opinions. People who seem more knowledgeable claim that it is due to overheated pads depositing material onto the rotors when stopped. To avoid that, drilled is supposedly better than slotted as it keeps the rotors and pads cooler. Also, carbon/metal or carbon/ceramic pads are better than straight ceramic because they conduct heat better. Also, DOT 4 brake fluid is supposedly better at pulling heat away from the pad. For the rotors, the vent design is more important than material, if the problem is overheated pads, but some rotors do use higher quality metal. And some also cryo cool the rotors. IF warping is true mechanical warping of the rotors themselves then the quality of metal and cryo cooling would be very important. If not, then it is mainly about getting heat away from the rotors and pads.

It looks like R1concepts sells cross drilled versions of the Centric rotors. Centric uses high quality metal stock. However, it doesn't seem to be made from the cryo-treated centric rotors. Too bad as that would be the best combo for the $$$. For the pads, Hawk HPS pads seem to be the best buy for a metallo-carbon composite pad. When I need to replace my front brakes, that is the combo I am going with.

XT6Wagon · #6 08-16-2011, 08:25 AM

There is two different things called "warping" by people. One is actual warping. This can be identified by the lateral forces generated. IE it hammers on the wheel left and right. The second is the uneven deposits/friction of the rotor. This can be identified by while pulling the wheel left and right, it is due to uneven friction between the sides, and there is no "hammering".

I don't have any experience with the SVX having issues with actual warping, and the ueven deposits can be prevented with some care in your driving. Googling can provide some tips by people who deal with brakes more than me.

With that said, crossdrilled is so 1990's. I'm more of a fan of slotted rotors for daily use as they don't weaken the rotor anywhere near as much and are quite good at keeping your pads from glazing.