STeeL's built motor/turbo build - Page 9

icingdeath88 · #**121** 01-26-2011, 04:30 PM

Nice progress bro. So how will the crankcase breather work exactly? Is there a valve involved or what?

STeeL25T · #**122** 01-26-2011, 04:46 PM

I'm not exactly sure myself

I followed LANs instructions as best I could from this thread:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...rbo+pcv&page=3

On a stock SVX, it comes out of the block into an F shaped connector, with the one of the two ends going to the PCV on the bottom of the intake manifold and the other plugging in to the bottom of the intake accordion hose closest to the throttle bodies.

On mine, I simply plugged the PCV and intake opening with the caps he mentioned, and ran one tube straight out of the opening in the block. I have a 9 dollar Advanced Auto Parts breather filter to go on the other end of the tube.

If any of this is completely wrong, now would be the time to correct me haha

icingdeath88 · #**123** 01-26-2011, 05:01 PM

Makes sense to me. The filter is what makes it ok, since just leaving it open would allow whatever nasty crap in the engine bay to wander into the crankcase.

STeeL25T · #**124** 02-23-2011, 09:18 AM

Got a bit side tracked. Sold my Civic daily and picked up an absolutely beautiful 240sx. Almost flawless. Everyone is demanding I drop an LS1 in it or something, and in the very least I keep shopping around for Z32 brakes and some shiny 5 lug wheels... But I must remind myself I have a project already

Any of you turbo guys (or others just smarter in these matters than myself) have and suggestions for spark plugs? I ran some form of NGKs on my last turbo car and they always seemed fine. A part number would be great since I thats all I brought to the store last time and they had them ordered in no time.

STeeL25T · #**125** 03-01-2011, 08:04 PM

Lots of help! Thats good... Haha. Cause I need moar.

Last dumb question of the week... Is there an easy way to get that old gasket off the oil pan? It's being a huge pain.

I went out get something from the garage today, saw the motor, and got inspired to work on it again. Got some carb cleaner and cleaned all the gunk out of the throttle bodies and reinstalled them, hooked up two connectors and some hoses I'm fairly sure are in the right place haha, will have to check. All the internals inside the pan are back on, just have to get the pan smooth to reinstall it with the new black gasket maker. While I had the motor flipped over I attempted to replace the power steering line I bent.. Two bolts, nothing to it... then I over tightened one and cut the head of it... Not exactly sure how I'm getting it out of there now...

While it doesn't seem like much, somehow this took me like 2 hours...

STeeL25T · #**126** 09-27-2011, 02:13 PM

Long time, no update. Since the last update I landed me a fantastic job and bought a house. That's had me tied up for a bit, but I'm getting back on the horse.

Update soon

STeeL25T · #**127** 11-02-2011, 12:07 PM

I now have a 2005 Saab 9-2X transmission with 80k miles sitting in my garage. That marks off my last major component

So close I can almost taste it.

icingdeath88 · #**128** 11-02-2011, 12:12 PM

Nice. Looking forward to seeing some pics

STeeL25T · #**129** 11-08-2011, 07:43 AM

Had a look at the motor yesterday during band practice and realized it's been so long since I've messed with it I forgot what I was doing on it

Went over to try and get my mind right on it today, see what was done, what needed to be done, whats still missing I didn't remember was missing, etc. I picked up some NGK V Powers and installed those and got the those wired up, as well as ran the front harness under my intake and plugged all those in where they looked like they logically went anyway... I think that makes it so the only plugs not plugged in at the moment are one block temp sensor under the intake, a long hard bendable wire that I believe I've deteremined will plug into a sensor on my AC thingy, and something near the injectors on the passenger side of the motor I don't really know where it goes haha... I'm hoping power steering pump or something once thats all in place.

Couldn't remember how the accessories went on or at least in what order so I left it at that for now. I need to order two bolts that hold on my oil filler cap as I can't seem to locate mine, and I need to pick up some ammonia as the internet tells me is the best way to strip the black RTV gasket off my oil pan.

I also have a handful of vacuum lines to either run or block off... Thats the only thing I'm really dreading right now. I know some aren't going to be used as I ditched some stuff in favor of a crank case breather, some should go to intake tube that isn't on yet, and the coolant through/across the throttle bodies and I may end up getting rid of that system. Where the rest of them go is a good guess to me..

icingdeath88 · #**130** 11-08-2011, 10:39 AM

Ok, for the little vacuum lines, I have a very good idea of how I'm going to run mine, and I suspect it's similar to what you're going to do.

Here's an OBD 2 vacuum diagram (I am about 90% sure that items 1, 2, and 3 are absent in the earlier cars and that's all that's different):

The EGR will be completely deleted, and any codes will be dealt with by plugging in the solenoid (#11) and temp sensor, and stuffing them under the manifold. A bolt in the exhaust manifold, blocking off the port at the intake manifold, and blocking off the little lines on the top of the throttle body (marked R and P) and that's done. The rest will go in the junk pile. There are a lot of little hard lines that can also be removed.

The charcoal canister will also be deleted, with just the purge solenoid (# 10) plugged into the harness to prevent a code. The line will be blocked off where it first enters the engine bay from the fuel tank. Make sure and block off the right one, the line from the fuel pump and the fuel return line are also there. Also, as much of the hard line in and around the manifold as possible will be removed. Then block off the line on top of the throttle body that it leads to it (diagram shows a line that splits into two, but there's only one).

The IRIS system will be left in place, and so will the FPR (obviously). Items 5, 6, 7, 8, and 12 and the associated lines. You should also make sure the IRIS check valve (#8) is in good shape, they tend to break in half when you take off the manifold.

The big vacuum lines, I am either going to use a air/oil separator of this type (goes where the oil cap goes: http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=191 or just vent them with crankcase breather filters. The only real reason I'd rather do the AOS is that two little filters sticking up out of the valve cover breather tubes would just look silly. With the AOS, a PCV is still needed, but I'd definitely ditch the stock location one and put a bolt in the manifold where it goes. Then put a different (read: cheap and easily replaced) one somewhere more accessible inline withe the big line out of the AOS. You can also just vent only the crankcase, and leave the big vac lines from the valve cover breathers to the plastic intake box just before the throttle bodies like stock, but not when it's running boost.

The AACV, and IACV lines need to be left alone.

I already bypassed the coolant throttle body lines. Very easy and straightforward.

There is a wire that plugs into the P/S pump, that's probably what that one is.

STeeL25T · #**131** 11-08-2011, 12:55 PM

That is remarkable helpful. Thank you very much!

I know my vacuum tank is brand new, I remember replacing it. The big thing in the center that goes to the charcol canister according to that picture I also remember blocking off.

aust92pearl · #**132** 11-08-2011, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

just a random question but what does the diaphram (no.6) actually do ?
that is the only hose that i could find that wasnt connected properly (hose broke in half ) on my engine
would that contribute to my car stalling out when put into gear ?

i know it doesnt matter much anymore now that i have many thousands of repair work

just wondering

icingdeath88 · #**133** 11-08-2011, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aust92pearl

just a random question but what does the diaphram (no.6) actually do ?
that is the only hose that i could find that wasnt connected properly (hose broke in half ) on my engine
would that contribute to my car stalling out when put into gear ?

i know it doesnt matter much anymore now that i have many thousands of repair work

just wondering

If it were broken there, it probably wouldn't cause your issue. Vac line is cheap and easily sourced, just replace it and move on.

That diaphragm closes the IRIS butterfly (like the things that open and close in a throttle body) to separate the two halves of the intake manifold, between 2000-ish and 4000-ish RPMs. If it's not working you could expect to feel a noticeable loss of torque in that range.

aust92pearl · #**134** 11-08-2011, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

If it were broken there, it probably wouldn't cause your issue. Vac line is cheap and easily sourced, just replace it and move on.

That diaphragm closes the IRIS butterfly (like the things that open and close in a throttle body) to separate the two halves of the intake manifold, between 2000-ish and 4000-ish RPMs. If it's not working you could expect to feel a noticeable loss of torque in that range.

ah ok so it was more then likely something in the trans (im going 5 speed before i get it back on the road anyway ),
just thought id ask

yeah i did notice it felt less touque at those rpms , i tried to put new hose on but my hands are too big to squeeze into there to get the old hose off let alone get new hose back on again

i guess il just pull the manifold off when im putting the 5 speed in and put all new vac hoses on

thanks

icingdeath88 · #**135** 11-08-2011, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aust92pearl

ah ok so it was more then likely something in the trans (im going 5 speed before i get it back on the road anyway ),
just thought id ask

yeah i did notice it felt less touque at those rpms , i tried to put new hose on but my hands are too big to squeeze into there to get the old hose off let alone get new hose back on again

i guess il just pull the manifold off when im putting the 5 speed in and put all new vac hoses on

thanks

I remember reading that it's easier to pull the manifold by unbolting the lower intake manifold (the part with the injectors) from the heads, rather than just the plenum from the lower manifold. Less chance of breaking things or something. You should have new gaskets on hand before doing that.