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#1
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Cold start problem thermosensor?
My SVX is hard to start when the motor is cold. I have to work the gas pedal in order to make it initially fire, otherwise it would just crank and not start. I remember reading that this was a common problem and it was most likely a thermosensor on drivers side of the intake manifold. does anyone know the part number or if it's sensor B or C in the illustrations? B says "guage" so I'm thinking it must be for the dash cluster.
Thanks, Chris |
#2
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The single wire sensor is for the gauge.
The two wire sensor is connected to the ECU and could be the cold start problem sourse. I have to go to Fredrick today, why don't you meet us and I can run the Subaru Select Moniter on your SVX? Tom 301-707-3437
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#3
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I'm rather certain it's the thermosensor mentioned, def not concerned about spending $30 to find out being that I've had BMWs all of my life! Whenever I do bring it to Frederick though, everyone is welcome check it out. It's a five speed |
#4
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Info here. http://http://www.subaru-svx.net/for...ad.php?t=40908
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#5
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Yes, the one that's marked "gauge" has one wire and it is for the gauge cluster. The other one has two wires and it is for the ECU and fans.
If you go to www.rockauto.com it is part 5S1579 listed for $20.79.
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Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0 |
#6
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The dealer most likely has them in stock for about $28. I had the same problem with both my Subaru and replacing the temp sensor fixed them both.
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2005 Legacy GT 2002 WRX VF22, Pinks, big TMIC and turbo back 128,*** miles My WRX's Cardomain Page |
#7
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Whatever, when you achieve a fix, please report back here as this will help the information on file.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#8
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Problem solved
I was having a problem with my starter not engaging some time ago. the wire to the starter was only putting out 10 volts which would not always engage the starter. I wired in a push button to activate the starter and would only turn the key to the on position when I attempted to start the car, consequently, the ecu would never go into a cold start mode. One day, I decided to turn the key to the start position in addition to pushing the starter button. It came to life immediately. just wanted to give closure to those of you that wanted an answer.
Thanks again, Chris |
#9
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Chris, special thanks for providing the additional info.
I presume your extra start button was wired to the solenoid coil in place of the original wire. The original wire completes a rather involved circuit from the ignition switch to finally energise the solenoid, importantly as you now confirm along with a feed to the ECU. This sub circuit must activate a start mode, hence the reason for the sequence you describe. The ideal would of course be to trace where the voltage drop causing the problem is occurring. This has become a common failure yet to be resolved. You have added still another clue in this rather baffling circuitry.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
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