SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by dynomatt

I'm not sure what phenolic spacers are, but the rest of the list look like the summary of what's been tried.

Phenolic spacers have been use on SVXi for quite a while, now.
What they are is a 1/3" thick insulating gasket seperating the upper intake manifold from the stacks, lessening the 200°f heat transfer into the intake manifold, from the intake stacks.
The more adventurous/determined amoung us have opted for another set of phenolic spacers seperating the intake stacks from the heads, doubling their efficiency!
This insulates the air passages to the engine, allowing a cooler air/fuel charge allowing more power.
I would have not have included it into the cooling system mods, as it does not actually cool the engine, but helps to keep the heat in the heads where heat belongs.

[Johnybeas]

i guess my reasoning for including it is basicly it is dealing with the transfer of heat which essentially is what we are doing with "cooling"

[Dessertrunner]

Guys you might want to watch this video he has the cooling under control.
http://www.bmsc.com.au/forums/rallyi...tml#post293128

[bazza]

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Guys you might want to watch this video he has the cooling under control.
http://www.bmsc.com.au/forums/rallyi...tml#post293128

Yeah, my cooling all sorted thanks to your help Tony. To solve with close to 600 bhp I simply:

1 Upgraded radiator to biggest I could fit 700x 448 x 56mm ($215 on ebay)
2 Inlet pipe to radiator is 2". The radiator outlet is 45mm so it steps up from 45mm to 50mm at the radiator outlet. I'm using standard intercooler silicon for the water hose - works a treat.

The Ford F350 radiator that I'm using came with a 45mm outlet on the bottom. I run a GT35R turbo and can do unlimited laps with the water below 90'C. Still running the stock water / oil cooler (well it's off a turbo EJ20 but still the stock Subaru part).

[svxistentialist]

Welcome Bazza.

Nice to have another innovations guru on board!

Joe

[bazza]

Originally Posted by svxistentialist

Welcome Bazza.

Nice to have another innovations guru on board!

Joe

Thanks. I didn't know this community existed until 2 weeks ago. Such a useful EG33 resource - hope I can add a little value

[Dessertrunner]

Welcome bazza we will apricate your input.
Tony

[bazza]

Revisiting this topic - a mate of mine bought a race EG33 engine and I had him ask the previous owner what they did to fix the EG33 overheating issue. Turns out they run multiple hoses into the back of the engine from the radiator somehow and do some really odd things?! I didn't pursue it much as I had no doubt it most likely was a bandaid fix that wouldn't work in the long term (as this thread and many others have shown over many years) but I thought it's rather interesting how people will fix the symptom and not the cause. It's very luck for us Tony did his testing

Anyway I of course instructed my mate to upgrade the thermostat cover and run a large radiator bottom hose outlet to solve it.

I'm also wondering why this doesn't effect WRX / STI's as they run the same pump internals and the same cover. My theory is the smaller EJ engine water jacket just creates less pressure which means there is less suction - although I'm not water pump expert so no idea really. However I'm also wondering if this is an upgrade for those EJ's and I think most likely yes.

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by bazza

Revisiting this topic - a mate of mine bought a race EG33 engine and I had him ask the previous owner what they did to fix the EG33 overheating issue. Turns out they run multiple hoses into the back of the engine from the radiator somehow and do some really odd things?! I didn't pursue it much as I had no doubt it most likely was a bandaid fix that wouldn't work in the long term (as this thread and many others have shown over many years) but I thought it's rather interesting how people will fix the symptom and not the cause. It's very luck for us Tony did his testing

Anyway I of course instructed my mate to upgrade the thermostat cover and run a large radiator bottom hose outlet to solve it.

I'm also wondering why this doesn't effect WRX / STI's as they run the same pump internals and the same cover. My theory is the smaller EJ engine water jacket just creates less pressure which means there is less suction - although I'm not water pump expert so no idea really. However I'm also wondering if this is an upgrade for those EJ's and I think most likely yes.

4cyl vs 6 cyl and associated water jackets/passages.

Bill

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Welcome bazza we will apricate your input.
Tony

Hi Tony,

Have you been able to set your CNC machine up yet to crank out the thermostat covers?

Bill

[Dessertrunner]

Not as yet Bill, we have all been doing it by using welded covers. Given all I have on not sure when I will get it done.
Bazza,
When I wrote the artical for MRT they mentioned that the older motors of the same vintage as ours were over heating, thats why they wanted the artical.
The STI water pump is different it doesn't have a dog leg as it enters from the bottom and also a number of those cars had cross flow radiators. Combine that with your point of reduced restriction and the problem is less obvious, but its still there.

Its worth noting that even though people say its not a problem on STI on newer models each time they move the revs up towards 10k the engine melts down. The only exception is drag engine which don't run for long enough.

Tony

[bazza]

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Not as yet Bill, we have all been doing it by using welded covers. Given all I have on not sure when I will get it done.
Bazza,
When I wrote the artical for MRT they mentioned that the older motors of the same vintage as ours were over heating, thats why they wanted the artical.
The STI water pump is different it doesn't have a dog leg as it enters from the bottom and also a number of those cars had cross flow radiators. Combine that with your point of reduced restriction and the problem is less obvious, but its still there.

Its worth noting that even though people say its not a problem on STI on newer models each time they move the revs up towards 10k the engine melts down. The only exception is drag engine which don't run for long enough.

Tony

Interesting - good to know.

That's quite a statement there Tony - I've run one 2.5L motor to 8500 rpm with stock internals for 65,000 kms with a GT35R@ 20 psi... it didn't melt down. I also ran another one to 9500 rpm with forged internals... it also didn't melt. A mate of mine has one built to rev to 9500 rpm... it's absolutely fine.

I think we should approach this the engine the same way you did the water cooling. By that I mean wait until we actually know exactly what the problems are before we start coming up with theories and fixes. This thread is the perfect example of why we do this. I read through it start to finish last night and so many times people stated certain things which would "definetely" work but most turned out to be very incorrect.

[Dessertrunner]

Originally Posted by bazza

Interesting - good to know.

That's quite a statement there Tony - I've run one 2.5L motor to 8500 rpm with stock internals for 65,000 kms with a GT35R@ 20 psi... it didn't melt down. I also ran another one to 9500 rpm with forged internals... it also didn't melt. A mate of mine has one built to rev to 9500 rpm... it's absolutely fine.

I think we should approach this the engine the same way you did the water cooling. By that I mean wait until we actually know exactly what the problems are before we start coming up with theories and fixes. This thread is the perfect example of why we do this. I read through it start to finish last night and so many times people stated certain things which would "definetely" work but most turned out to be very incorrect.

Your point is correct, so does your mate have any issues at 9,500 rpm also how much run time has he got on it.

Tony

[Johnybeas]

I wanted to see if I could get more info about the crossover pipe, I recall seeing a long ways back in the thread something about the IRIS system not being used on the vehicle this was fitted on so the pipe was able to be straighter. I'm just curious what changes would need to be done to make this same pipe but so it would fit on a vehicle that still has the IRIS and also more specifically what was tapped into (the heads "at the bosses for the front two cylinders on each head and ran hoses to the custom crossover pipes" not sure what Bill meant by this) and how, and what sensors are tapped into the pipe.
Reposting the image to refresh what I'm talking about

[svxfiles]

"what sensors are tapped into the pipe."
There are two water temperature sensors.
The one with two wires is for engine management, the one with a single wire is for the dashboard gauge.