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#1
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Gas leak
Is it possible to remove the gas tank (and everything that goes with it according to http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/use...tal_suby|18712) when you don't have access to a car lift, but only have floor jacks and jack stands at your disposal?
The gas leak is near the rear wheel on the driver's side, where the delivery, return, and evaporation lines all run through rubber hoses connecting to metal lines. The lines are heavily rusted, and the leak occurs when the engine is running. I had to look underneath while it was leaking to see that it was actually coming from near the clamp where the delivery line's rubber hose connects to the metal line. (It was splashing all around underneath, hiding the source when the engine was off) I loosened the clamp, slipped it down, and tried tugging the hose free. This caused the metal line leading up to the gas tank to move too, so I thought maybe I should stop tugging. If the tank needs to be removed, it will be a big job, so I thought I should try reclamping the hose so I could move the car into the garage. I couldn't get the clamp back past a bulge to its original position, so I tried starting the engine. Gas started spilling like a waterfall! There's no way I can get my head under there to see if it is now leaking from another spot as well, as the greater flow suggests. I'm afraid to move the car into the garage or let the engine run at all. If I need a lift, then I'll have to have it towed to a mechanic, so putting it in the garage would be counter productive. One complication is that the jack supporing the car is at the jack point in front of the rear wheel - which is right in the way of the leak! I have almost no room to work. I also have a second support under the rear differential case. If anyone knows of other places near the rear that's safe to use as a jack point, that would be helpful too. |
#2
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Brian, I hope you parked the car an a level concrete parking lot, away from everything but Firemen, and opened all the windows, doors, trunk, and sunroof.
Disconnect the battery making sure to remove the ground wire first. Check your fire insurance is paid up! Remove the back seat bottom. Remove the passenger side inner trim pannel, (the one with the armrest). Where the three metal tubes go through the floor, through the rubber grommets is PROBABLY where the problem is. Dirt accumulates there causing the tubing to rust there. I have seen fresh looking gas lines with fresh green plating, and at the line where the rubber gromet is, rusted through. Please be very careful, gasoline and fire can be unforgiving! Since this is very dangerous, I would reccomend a qualified mechanic, one that you trust, and show him this post. Good luck, Tom.
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#3
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Tom,
Thanks for the advice! I really think the problem is in another location, though. Let me explain: Before I tried removing the clamp I mentioned, I saw gas squirting out of the end of the short rubber hose at the clamp itself. (parts #16 & 22 here: http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=421-B) I'm talking about the end of the hose that connects to the metal line (part #10 in the same diagram) that heads verically upward towards the unseen point where it connects to the gas tank, not the end of the hose that points toward the front of the car. My plan was - and still is - to try replacing that rubber hose first. Now it's the same steel line I mentioned (#10) that is badly rusted (and that goes for the parallel return line and evaporation line too) that was moving when I tugged on the unclamped hose. (Or is #10 one of lines that travels through the grommet and under the back seat?) If the resulting bigger leak is due to more damage I caused, then it would be in that line. But the bigger leak could just be due to the fact that I loosened the clamp and hose. I did manage to get the clamp back into position, but I may not have been able to tighten it sufficiently. I then moved it to the garage, which is concrete and flat (unlike the driveway.) It's also well ventilated and protected from the weather. (I only drove it to a position where I could coast it in with the ignition off so I wouldn't make a gas puddle in the garage.) I should now be able to jack it up more securely and (hopefully) with more room for me to work. I can try removing and replacing that hose again, and then see if I have another leak. |
#4
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Been there. I was also wondering if the gas tank could be removed with only jack stands. From the grommet I cut the metal lines with a brake line cutting tool and using rubber fuel hose and clamps to connect throught the rubber grommet to an non leaking section of the metal pipe. You might have to enlarge the holes in the grommet so the rubber fuel line can pass through. If you are going to remove the tank then I must ask if you have ever removed you wheel hubs (rusted long bolt on the hub can be so much fun).
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1999 Audi A8. No more SVX's for now. |
#5
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O.K. I've replaced the rubber hose, but I've still got the gushing leak! It is not coming from the metal pipe that runs through the chasis floor under the back seat. It is coming from the metal pipe that connects to the other end of that hose, as I described above (part # 10). I cannot see the leak point since too much is coming out for me to look when the fuel pump is running. It may be above that lobe of the gas tank.
So I'm hoping someone can answer my original question: Can I remove the tank with only floor jacks and jack stands, or does the car need to be on a lift? There are issues of clearance form the ground and of where I can place the jacks. If a lift is necessary, I'll take it to a mechanic. If not, then that I'll have to decide weather or not I should try it at home (with advice from a mechanic). |
#6
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Quote:
Honestly, I would not attempt it myself. Waaay too many chances to get crushed. The good news is that if the rear diff mounting bushings are bad, now is the perfect time to change them... Doug
__________________
1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#7
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O.K. I've decided to take it to a mechanic...hopefully tomorrow.
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#8
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I have had to drop a SVX gas tank, on a full shop lift, in a clean and heated shop, and it's a PITA!
I would not want to do one on the floor.
__________________
www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#9
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Agreed. A lift would be safer. And while the tank is out, check the condition of the metal brake lines that run behind the tank.
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1999 Audi A8. No more SVX's for now. |
#10
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Quote:
Todd
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Down to none |
#11
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Quote:
__________________
1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#12
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Quote:
When I walked in the shop, he was fireing up the oxy-acetylene torch, to cut off the stuck bolt! I had to break the bolt loose for him, for him not to use the torch... This is a 45 year old professional mechanic, who does this for a living, Wiskey, Tango, Foxtrot!
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#13
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Amazing!
It won't be until next Tuesday until the mechanic I called can look at my car. |
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