Driving that 4EAT

jetboy · #1 03-08-2012, 05:18 AM

4EAT is immensely expensive to repair in Norway. How can I drive in order to minimize wear ?

Where I live it's a lot of 60-70 km/h zones, bends, up- and downhill. After only a few days with automatic, I find myself engine breaking a lot in 1st and 2nd gear. Does this means extra wear or is it of no concern?

During urban driving, is D the better option or maybe 2 or 3?

Is it better to actively use manual mode in fluctuating situations or let it run itself?

Edit: On eurocars, apparently the water pump runs a channel to the transmission, probably for oil-to-water cooling and it's well under 15 degrees celcius here most of the year, I don't think an additional cooler will help.. but please correct me if I'm wrong.

Alex-svx · #2 03-08-2012, 06:03 AM

I think best way to keep the tranny in good shape is to change oil and filter
regularly. And also when you stop the car for redlight etc you sould put in in N.
And not let the transmission go when you are staning on the brake over time.

jetboy · #3 03-08-2012, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex-svx

And not let the transmission go when you are staning on the brake over time.

thanks. Exactly what do you mean with this sentence?

icingdeath88 · #4 03-08-2012, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetboy

During urban driving, is D the better option or maybe 2 or 3?

3. The final drive gearing on the VTD 4EATs is different from the USDM ones, but here the problem is 4th gear, at low RPMs results in too low of line pressure to hold it in gear properly. So, there is a constant slip, grab, slip, grab, which you can't even notice. So even though it will shift into 4th at really low speeds, like 35mph, it's not good for it. Keep it in 3 until like 50mph, then shift to D. Because your trans is 3.7:1 final drive instead of 3.54, the speeds might be a bit different, but that's the idea. Also, the torque converter will lock up (in 4th) at anything above 50 mph if you're maintaining a pretty steady speed. This is good for reducing wear/operating temps.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetboy

Is it better to actively use manual mode in fluctuating situations or let it run itself?

Don't bother messing with manual mode, it's almost entirely useless. The only use I've heard of is when there's snow/ice, you can use 2nd or 3rd to avoid spinning the tires. The switched power mode mod is worth doing.

I thought the extra water pump line on the Euro cars was for an oil cooler for the engine? If it's for the trans, that's good, but I'd double check that.

Huskymaniac · #5 03-08-2012, 10:11 AM

Another easy thing to do is to switch to synthetic ATF like Redline or Motul. Do a drain and refill, not a flush, about every 12k miles or 20k km.

jetboy · #6 03-08-2012, 02:01 PM

Yes, I'll try 3 in speeds under 45 mph, the drivetrain feels a bit unsetteled under that. I'm not sure whether this is a real phenomenon or if I can actually just hear the engine due to low tyre noise (I'm on spikes now).

I'll stay away from manual mode. Just recently I went slightly uphill on pure ice that was slightly melted (in D and maybe 12-15 mph), not even a hint of spinning. Impressed my friend.

So engine breaking is all cool. Use Neutral when at stand still. I'll use synthetic next time I change fluids.

And city driving?

Landshark · #7 03-08-2012, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetboy

So engine breaking is all cool.

Well, brake pads are a lot cheaper than a transmission.......

jetboy · #8 03-08-2012, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Landshark

Well, brake pads are a lot cheaper than a transmission.......

Can't argue with that!