SVX rust weakness

[gmaxum]

Another user ( gwarusee ) outlined on another thread how if you noticed rust bubbling out above the side body cladding that you would probably find underneath the cladding would be a rusty mess.
I immediately went out to see if I could determine if this was the case on my 97'- I did have a little bit of rust bubbling out on the driver side. I started pressing all over the door cladding and, sure enough, I heard a lot of crunchy sounds . Now I am a little sick knowing my baby is being eaten away. So this is a heads up for everybody who has not ever inspected under that cladding.
I was planning on having it painted next spring, but would still like to get under there and have a look and maybe even grind it off myself and seal it.
I would appreciate if anybody here can post how to get the door cladding off - I understand it can be a little difficult.

[AlcyoneDaze]

hmm.. thanks for the heads up, time to take a look before the winter - *crosses fingers

[Crazy_pilot]

From what I've seen the SVX is fairly resistant to rust for a modern car. Mine hasn't been so lucky though.





The amount of repair mine needs is a little scary. New doors, fenders, and rear quarters. I also plan on replacing every part under the car (Subframes, suspension, etc.)

The attached picture shows what's left of my left front spindle.

[nonSTOP_service]

I've got rust in the same spots on my doors. My rear fenders around the wheel wells are gettin pretty gnarly too.

Luckily the underbody looks fantastic.

I'll definatley be checking back to see how to get under that cladding.

[benebob]

Remember subies rust from the inside out. Just because you look okay on the outside doesn't mean that you are. The cladding rust just so happens to be right where the door reinforcement bar runs through and usually exactly where it was spotted in. Cheap ways to keep it as rust free as possible are wash it at least 1 time a week in the winter with plenty of water to get everything out. Add a touch of kerosene to the water if possible as it gives it an oily coat which will resist rust and salt a bit. 1/20th is about the right mixture. Oh yeah don't tell Al Gore I told you that one. I even went so far as to fill my rockers on my BRAT with gear oil (not in my driveway though as it'll leak out until you get moving to slosh it around in there! Don't park it in a heated garage in winter. Wait just don't drive it in the winter!

[svxstarship]

To remove the door cladding. Remove inside door panel ( assorted screws under felt near inside door lever and plastic connectors around door) etc. After inside door panel is removed you will see three or so nuts that hold the outside trim panel on ( the nuts are 10mm I think ). Easy to take off and then you will have a better idea of how much rust there is.

[nonSTOP_service]

Originally Posted by benebob

Wait just don't drive it in the winter!

So, you're telling me that I shouldn't drive my 4WD machine in the snow...

You and I wouldn't get along.

[dcarrb]

Originally Posted by nonSTOP_service

I've got rust in the same spots on my doors. My rear fenders around the wheel wells are gettin pretty gnarly too.

Unfortunately, as Benebob alluded, those rust sport aren't "on" your doors, they're IN your doors. And I agree with his advice: If you want your SVX to last, park it in wintertime and buy a beater. The damage that's already been done is going to be expensive to repair properly, and it's gonna worsen very rapidly if you keep slogging through salty slush.

Regarding the use of kerosene, I recall hearing of "underbody oiling" when I lived in Vermont. Probably not a bad idea, especially for inside doors and quarter-panels.

dcb

[SVX_MY_BABY]

I mentioned this in another post a while back. The Canadian Automobile Association (of which I am not a member) only recommends "Rust Check" or "Krown" undercoating.

I have had my SVX Rust Checked every year since new and aside from one tiny spot of surface rust caused by a chip there was no rust on my car when I had it painted and had new under body parts installed last winter. The stuff really does work. It's hard on the rubber parts like the weather strips, but so are ozone and the sun. It actually drives out the moisture as well as coating everything with rust inhibitors. It works on old cars as well as new.

It only cost $100.00 each year to apply and is worth it's weight in gold.

Believe me I know. There is no place worse than here for corroding cars. Tons of salt on the roads in winter, constant winter temperatures right around the freeze thaw point and very salty air from the ocean.

[mohrds]

Originally Posted by dcarrb

Regarding the use of kerosene, I recall hearing of "underbody oiling" when I lived in Vermont. Probably not a bad idea, especially for inside doors and quarter-panels.

dcb

When I store my Mustangs, the underbody and engine compartment gets sprayed with used motor oil. (Don't tell Al about me either). Works wonders.

For inside doors, fenders, quarters, I haven't found anything better than Premiere's ZR Rustproofing. It is runny so it crawls into all the seams, Then it dries with a wax-like finish. Unfortunately I'm on my last can and Premiere seems to be out of business. They used to be based in Cleveland, OH but I can't find a listing for them anymore.

Doug