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#1
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problem with constant heat supply
Now that the really cold has hit the northeast, my heat is erratic. When I'm driving the heat seems to respond to the temperature setting. But when I stop for a light or any other reason, the heat stops and the air blowing thru the system is cold. When I start to move again, the heat returns while the car is moving. I tried to clean the temp sensor on the dash but that had no effect. Any suggestions?
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#2
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
Same problem with mine, it's been doing it for over a year now. I've bled the coolant system, changed the thermostat, changed the water pump...all to no effect. What I want to try is back flushing the heater core with CLR to clean it out. It's irritating when the temps are hitting -30 to -40 here.
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#3
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
Here we have two members involved with the same problem.
It would appear that heat is only available when the car is moving, correct? Does this occur in both manual or auto modes, or is it confined to auto? It would appear that the operation of the motor driven heater air mix door must be involved, and very likely the control system of same. In respect of control and forward motion, I wonder about the ambient sensor mounted behind the front grill. Any mods that could have an effect on this?
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! Last edited by Trevor; 01-09-2010 at 12:56 AM. |
#4
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
same issue with my 2003 RS
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Tranny goes in, tranny comes out, tranny goes in.....AW ****, tranny comes out.... |
#5
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
My 92 does this as well. I thought it was related to my needing to switch out the radiator, but now I'm wondering...
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92 LS-L, Ebony Pearl, 160k miles, sitting in the hospital waiting room hoping for a miracle 06 Hyundai Sonata GLS, 77K miles |
#6
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
You are correct that the heat does come out the vents when the car is moving but not when it's stopped. Cold air does blow out the vents whenit's stopped so the fan is working. This happens when on auto mode but I don't understand what you mean by "manual"mode. My heater/ventalation system is controlled by the temp setting on the round gauge in the dash. Depending upon the temp setting and the sensor under the gauge, I either get heat of air conditioning . If I push the vent button, I still can add heat to the incoming air if I raise the temp setting. So please explain what you mean my "manual" mode. The car is very stock except for koni inserts and Brembro rotors. There are no mods that would effect this. The car is a 94 w/178,000+ miles and this never happened before. ???
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#7
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
In AUTO mode, the fan speed is set based upon the temperature you set and the inside cabin temperature. The temperature setting in AUTO mode also directs where the air exits. You will notice that as you lower raise or lower the temperature setting the fan speed changes automatically as the setting comes close to the inside cabin temperature.. The AUTO led is illuminated.
High temperature settings in AUTO should come out at the floor vents. If the DEF button is pressed, hot air comes out of the windshield/side vents. Once tou set the temperature, if you manually change the fan speed (low/med/high) it is no longer in AUTO mode (that LED should be off) And then there is ECON, which does basically the same thing, only not automatically-controlled. In this mode the compressor does not run, so dehumidifying is not present for clearing the windshield. I use ECON for heat in the cooler weather if I don't need to keep my windows from fogging. .
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. Subaru Ambassador 1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995..... Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan In-Service Date: January 2, 1997 "The Pristine Green Polo Machine” First Polo Green on the Network First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000) First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007) First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013) HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler. R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016 2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles. Plenty of parts, service and windshields. 4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001 My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX . . Last edited by svxcess; 01-09-2010 at 10:53 AM. |
#8
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
In my case it's dependant on engine speed. If it is held above 1500 then I get heat. If the RPM's fall below that I get cold air. The cold does not come on immediately, only after 20 seconds or so of idling. For example, my drive to school involves a 55 MPH road. If I'm cruising on it I get heat and all is well. When I see a red light well ahead of me I let off and coast. Initially the system continues to blow hot air, but after a short period of coasting the temperature falls.
It should also be noted that the cold air coming in is not as cold as the outside air, just significantly colder than it should be. This leads me to believe that the heater core isn't getting proper circulation. When the RPM's are raised and the coolant pressure increases there is sufficient flow to heat the air flowing over the core. However, once RPM's drop so does the coolant flow. Initially there is enough hot coolant in the core to provide momentary heat, but once this has been used up by the airflow there is not sufficient heated coolant going through the core to continue providing optimal heating. Because the incoming air is never "ice cold" I believe there is always some minimal flow of coolant, just not enough at idle to heat the air properly.
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#9
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
Now I understand what you meant by "manual". Yes, I've changed the fan speed from high to low and in between but I never realized that doing this took it off auto control. Leaned a new thing today. I haven't checked at what rpm this happens but I'll pay attention today/tomorrow. I had something similar in a Taurus that I used to own. In that case I couldn't turn the heater knob beyond the halfway point and cold outside air was entering the car all the time. After a expensive removal of the dash, I discovered the problem was a pencil that had fallen thru the defroster vent and lodged in the heater door and prevented it from fully closing. It's not a pencil this time but it is annoying and my wife would like it FIXED!!!
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#10
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
It would appear that my JDM car has a different air conditioning and heater system from the US version. Therefore I must leave you to your own devices.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#11
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
Update: I filled the heater core with CLR at the shop today and let it sit for a couple hours before flushing it out and re-filling the coolant. I don't have results yet, as the car was sitting in the shop all day and was therefore pretty warmed up, plus 30 minutes of idling to bleed the coolant. I can say, however, that my right foot was much more toasty than it has ever been before. I should know for sure when I drive in tomorrow.
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#12
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
Another update: Oddly enough for this part of the world, it's been a warm January, hovering just below the freezing mark (even above yesterday!), so I have be unable to evaluate the effectiveness of the flush so far. One of these days the temps should drop down to the typical -40, so I'll update again when I know more.
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#13
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
Another update:
The temperature dropped back down well below freezing today. Drove the car home and didn't notice any problems with the heat supply. I was taking some of the back roads home, so it took most of my drive to get the coolant up to temp, and only got really good heat when I was a few minutes from home, but I didn't get the old cold air blowing up my ankles thing. I can't proclaim it a full fix yet, I want to drive it a bit more in my normal routine in cold temperatures, but things are looking up.
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#14
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
ya crazy, wait till february, apparent we're in the "january thaw" then we'll have the "february freeze" :S
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Tranny goes in, tranny comes out, tranny goes in.....AW ****, tranny comes out.... |
#15
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Re: problem with constant heat supply
Has anybody tried replacing the thermostat? My Leggy was doing that a couple winters ago... new thermostat... problem fixed. Apparently I was only getting a small amount of coolant through, so under load and higher rpms it could force enough through for everything to work normally. I also found that the aftermarket thermostats suck... went through 2 in less than a year (the OEM one was by far superior).
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-Aaron SVX: '92 Dark Teal 101k '97 Legacy GT Wagon: dead '99 Civic Si: daily driver... stolen and stripped with all my tools! '92 Yamaha FZR 600: garage 2011 Jetta: Daily disappointment |
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