11:1 Engine Rebuild - Page 12

TomsSVX · #**166** 01-29-2011, 09:44 PM

That all depends on what you have bypassed. The charcoal canister will only see manifold vacuum when the solenoid opens which is not all the time. I do not know off the top of my head when the solenoid is used. blocking the port on the TB for the solenoid will tell you for sure if this is a source of any leak...

Tom

Cam · #**167** 01-30-2011, 11:55 AM

Just a crappy cell phone pic till my girlfriend returns with the nice camera today (it is hers after all).

Cam · #**168** 02-02-2011, 01:17 PM

OK, so I adjusted the screw on the p/s of the throttle body. Didn't seem to help at all. Next I bypassed the aux. air control unit (the one under the driver side of the intake manifold, with hoses to the top or the throttle body, and d/s of the plastic intake). My car went crazy

. Rev'd up to 3k and then just sputtered and died...so that didn't work.

I think maybe I just need to clean my IACV, or replace it. I am tempted to seafoam it, but that is the lazy way, and since everything else is new, I may just as well replace it. I will let you guys know if it worked.

longassname · #**169** 02-02-2011, 03:28 PM

I haven't made the adjustment on an engine with the cams you have--since desertrunner is the only other person with them and he hasn't run his engine as far as I know. On some other combos though I found adjusting the stop screw to close the butterflies more as opposed to opening them more produced a good idle without adjusting the software.

You have to be precise in the way you do it to get it right because it's a combination of things. You can't just adjust the set screw and call it a day. You have to adjust the set screw, then re-adjust the throttle position sensor to between 0.48v and 0.50v, then clear the ECU memory, then turn the car off, then restart it to see the result.

The 256-264 combination required software changes to get a good idle. It's possible the combination you have with the special intake cam for the high compression pistons will require software changes too. I'd be exacting and persistant with the throttle body set screw adjustment 1st.

Cam · #**170** 02-02-2011, 05:10 PM

LAN, to close the butterflies you rotate the stop screw counter clockwise, correct? How far do you recommend adjusting it each time?

Also, I plan on doing the tcu and valvebody before unleashing the rest of the power with the ecu, maf, and injectors. Maybe I should do the ecu first? Is this something that you could make turn key ready or will I have to have someone tune the car off your base maps if the idle is software related?

The car is running rich at idle, so closing the butterflies does not make sense to me, but if you say so, I trust your advice. I will take my IAC off and clean the crap out of it first just to eliminate it as a possibility. Then i will continue adjusting the stop screw to see what results i get. This is literally the only problem on an otherwise perfect engine. So satisfying, but frustrating at the same time.

longassname · #**171** 02-02-2011, 07:13 PM

Adjusting the butterfly isn't the cause of rich or lean...it's not a carb after all. I've gone as far as all the way closed before.

Do you at least have a stage 1av1? The stock fuel maps and a couple of my earlier versions of software have a big hump in the fuel map at loads right below where it usually idles with stock cams. With performance cams you can bob in and out of that hump and it can cause some instability and extra rich afrs at idle.

Do you have a decent laptop? Maybe I can get you set up with a select monitor interface and ECUtuner software so you can monitor things easily.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

LAN, to close the butterflies you rotate the stop screw counter clockwise, correct? How far do you recommend adjusting it each time?

Also, I plan on doing the tcu and valvebody before unleashing the rest of the power with the ecu, maf, and injectors. Maybe I should do the ecu first? Is this something that you could make turn key ready or will I have to have someone tune the car off your base maps if the idle is software related?

The car is running rich at idle, so closing the butterflies does not make sense to me, but if you say so, I trust your advice. I will take my IAC off and clean the crap out of it first just to eliminate it as a possibility. Then i will continue adjusting the stop screw to see what results i get. This is literally the only problem on an otherwise perfect engine. So satisfying, but frustrating at the same time.

zaueugen · #**172** 02-14-2011, 01:00 PM

whats new with the engine? fix the problems yet?

Cam · #**173** 02-24-2011, 10:07 PM

Late reply.

Got the idle evened out enough to where she doesn't die. It would make sense if the car was bobbing in and out of the rich "hump" in the fuel map LAN mentioned a couple posts earlier. I am going to get my hands on an ECU soon to check all that out.

My throttle is doing some weird stuff. This just started, but she doesn't want to drop below 1500-2000 rpm. I can use my foot on the back of the throttle pedal to lower it down to 700-800 rpm and she idles good enough and will stay there. Maybe my throttle cable is sticking, or maybe part of the throttle body was damaged.

There is a pin that travels through a channel on the passenger side of the throttle body. Anyone have a picture, or could take one for me, so that I can see what it should visually look like?

Crazy_pilot · #**174** 02-24-2011, 10:32 PM

I have a bunch. Stand by, uploading.

Here you go: On the passenger side of the throttle body there is the main shaft for the throttle plates, one arm that the main throttle linkages are mounted on, a second arm that some of the springs are locked to, a long nub-type thing cast into the body that a few of the springs rest against, and an adjustable set screw.

And with some of the linkages stripped off:

Cam · #**175** 03-02-2011, 05:19 PM

That is the set screw I adjusted. 1/8th turn clockwise seemed to help out a lot. Don't forget that you have to reset the ECU and readjust (or double check) the TPS after this.

That "roller" looking thing that travels through the channel on mine likes to rest in the elbow of the track. I don't think it will go all the way into the end of the track without me helping it. Could have been bent I suppose. Oh well, I will see if she keeps giving me any issues, and try to figure it out.

Still waiting to get that ECU from LAN so I can drop my injectors and MAF in. Bank account is still recovering from the build, haha.

I will keep everyone posted

radarwhiz · #**176** 04-20-2011, 09:18 AM

Cam,

Been following your build and wondering if you've been able to dyno yet and if you have any results for anyone considering this build.

Cam · #**177** 04-20-2011, 11:01 AM

Doig a dyno run would be useless with the way the car is runnig and without all wheel drive. i am currently working to fix the rich afr condition I am experiencing, as well as fix the awd system. I will dyno and post my results when i am done. It may be a couple months...

required · #**178** 08-07-2011, 03:43 PM

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but are there any updates? It was a pretty exciting and informative thread to read through, and now its been almost 4 months

Cam · #**179** 08-08-2011, 11:02 AM

There are a lot of issues that need to be addressed on the car. The rear main seal is leaking so I need to pull the engine again. I need a new transmission as well. Not to mention a suspension overhaul, body work and paint. All my money is currently tied up in buying a house so the svx has been put on the back burner for a bit.

required · #**180** 08-08-2011, 03:25 PM

Wow, sorry to hear all that. Good that you're buying a house though. Thanks for the update, and good luck with it all.