Remote Mount Turbo

[Tapani]

Get a new resistor from your local Radio Shack !

- edit: I measured mine - it reads 0.0 ohms and is completely blank - no markings.... hmmm. A resistor ?

Off to sheep hearding practise with Goofy the bordercollie . Get some sleep and continue tomorrow !

T

[92 SVX]

Originally Posted by Subaru Alliance

that is a good idea tapani. the only issue will be is that both of my ECU's have the resistor chopped so it will ignore internal memory and look for the ROM socket. I suppose I could solder in a piece of wire just for testing sake but I am not sure how it will affect it just having a wire there instead of a resistor. I may go that route.

I have no idea why I didn't think of that, none the less I may give it a go. Also I will look for a vacuum pump tomorrow.
Yes I did replace the injector o rings. I can try the auto button on the climate control to see if that makes a difference. When the engine is cold it struggles to idle but idles, once it warms up it will stall out if left idling for more than 1.5-2 seconds.

Some ecu's came with a socketed rom part of a tsa I believe, mine did.

I live a hour, maybe 2 south of you I might be able to bring mine up, I have the stage 1 ecutune. I kept mine just incase but I could let you use it.
I will have to search around and find it again and I cant drive up there for a while though.

[92 SVX]

I could probably mail it to you in a few days, or less depending on when I could find it.

let me know if your interested.

[Subaru Alliance]

@92svx I would be interested in testing it out just to see what difference it would make.

As for an update, I put the original injectors in and the OE MAF and did a hasty install of the ecu. I put it all together and when I fired it up I had a MEAN fuel leak coming from the pressure regulator. I uninstalled it and saw the o-ring had a small chunk missing, so I swapped out the regulator and fired it up, it seemed to idle MUCH better when cold now. once it starts to drop off, I can tap the throttle and it goes up to about 1500 rpms and hangs out there for several seconds, however once warmed up, there is no difference at all. you have to continuously tap the throttle and sometimes it will stall out from about 1200 rpms as if you just turned off the key. Anyone know if a faulty sensor would cause this type of behavior? maybe Crank angle, or Cam angle on it's way out?????

Anyways here are a few pics of the hasty stock setup.
Here is a pic of the stock ECU, hanging by the wires and grounded to the steering column.

Another picture showing both ECU's in the car.

Here is a picture of the MAF connector. The way everything is spliced in I can swap between the MAF meters on the fly, of course for testing only.

[Subaru Alliance]

also I turned the climate control on auto and set the temp to the coldest and it didn't make any difference at all.

Also now that pretty much everything has been swapped over to the 92 block, meaning the 92 block now has the 94 intake, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, and intake wiring harness. This is what is leading me to believe it is a sensor of some sort. if it were something like low compression or a collapsed lifter or something of that nature it would have the symptom all the time, but in this case the symptom is it won't idle and was miss firing under load, I haven't take it back out to see if that has been fixed with this injector and MAF swap join back to stock ECU.

[Subaru Alliance]

Ok so for another update..........What had happened was........

So anyways, I decided what the hell, it's easy enough to swap out the cam angle sensor, so I swapped it out and fired up the car, Idling on a cold engine was dramatically improved. However once warmed up, it still doesn't want to idle. I also noticed the "teeth" on the timing belt drive pulley (behind the crank pulley) were half way sheared off, and they were "rubbing" on the timing belt tensioner pulley. I swapped out the front crank angle sensor and re timed the cams, because I replaced the tensioner with one that has the sleeve/washer on it.

If I am wrong on this, please correct me, HERE GOES

This leads me to believe and this is purely speculation, that when the engine is "cold" it must be using the cam sensor to control idling, once the engine warms up it must switch over to use the front crank sensor to control idling. Or maybe it uses the back crank sensor and the cam sensor for cold idling.

The reason I think it is something like this is because the car idles almost normal when cold, but when the t-stat opens and ecu reads the temp as warm, it's like the car loses something, as though it is looking for a signal that it's not getting. Anyways, I have some pics here of the teeth on the timing belt drive pulley, and the tensioner pulley with and without the sleeve. If anyone has a part number or anything for the timing "gear" in question please post it. I will also look around at napa, oreilly's etc.etc.

[Subaru Alliance]

Looks like its gonna be a dealer part.
BTW did y'all know you can buy a reman engine from NAPA for 3700 bucks. nice huh?

[Tapani]

Have you checked both air valves? The "aux air control valve" controls high idle when the engine is warming up and then the "by-pass air control solenoid valve" controls the idle air flow under normal operating conditions (the ECU will balance the fuel flow).

If you're starving for air then it will be real rich before actually stalling. Try to introduce a tiny vacuum leak when it starts to stall. If you can keep it running this way then troubleshoot the idle air circuit with the manual. You have the FSM right?

If not, you can download everything here: http://phantomotaku.com/SVX/

Good luck and happy hunting!

Tapani

[Subaru Alliance]

Thanks for the info and the fsm, I am on my phone so I will download them to my cpu when I get home. The aux air valve, and the bypass air valves are original to the car, the only change was updating the vacuum hoses to them. I will still swap over the rear crank sensor since its so easy, but those air valves I will check those out as well, (just because they are original to the car doesn't mean they are good) although the engine ran fine before the swap.

As for the timing drive pulley, the one on my donor engine was jacked up and I saw it, I tried to bend the teeth just enough to clear the tensioner pulley and one of them broke off. When I saw it had done the same thing with this pulley I removed the tensioner pulley to add a washer to the back of it (rather than try to bend the teeth) and that's when I noticed the sleeve was missing. My spare timing pulley is the broken one, and the one on the car is well damaged to say the least. Anyone succesfully run a pulley in this condition? You can see in the photo the teeth are half way worn off and I wouldn't be surprised if it is bent in a way that the teeth no longer pass right under the sensor, instead they are kinda behind it now.

[redlightningsvx]

Hows your check valve

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by Subaru Alliance

Anyone succesfully run a pulley in this condition? You can see in the photo the teeth are half way worn off and I wouldn't be surprised if it is bent in a way that the teeth no longer pass right under the sensor, instead they are kinda behind it now.

You should definitely, definitely get a new crank sprocket.

[Subaru Alliance]

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

Hows your check valve

Which one are you referring to? the one on the vacuum reservoir (black box under the intake) has a new check valve installed.

Aso my Ol' Lady works at a repair shop and she had them order the sprocket for me at cost which was 35 dollars. should be in today or tomorrow.

As for another update, it's still running the same way, I haven't had the chance to check out the air valves as suggested by tapani. I have swapped the stage 2 stuff back over and will install the crank sprocket once it comes in. Then troubeshooting can continue based on how it runs with the new pulley installed.

[Subaru Alliance]

another update, the Ol' Lady sent me a picture of the part, to verify it's what I need. It is just now on order, coming from new jersey so it shoud be here in in a couple three or four days. and it was ony 26 bucks.

Anyways that's all to report for now.

[Subaru Alliance]

I got the new pulley in today. I installed it and it does run better but still not running right. I have narrowed down the issue to just the passenger side bank of the engine. I decided to do a compression test on it, and stopped after the second test on the very first cylinder (front passenger side) with a result the first time of 60psi and the second time with 70psi. On a fully warmed engine. I know right? I am no genius or anything but on a typical engine with 10:1 compression I would expect the numbers to be triple digits, and at the low end i would expect something in the range of 160psi at the low end. LUCKILY mine is hanging out in the 60-70 range. I will get ready to purchase cam seals and front crank seal and re use most of the other gaskets. I am gonna put the original engine back in, since it ran fine to begin with there is no need to yank the heads off it. In reality I swapped engines ONLY because the original has a few oil leaks here and there, so now it's much easier to replace the seals and gaskets with it on a stand. anyways here are some pics of the new crank sprocket and the welded keyway.


WELDED KEYWAY


The welded keyway will accept stock, unmodified parts. I will try to get a better shot of the keyway.

[Subaru Alliance]

Ok so just some general babble to promote a bit of discussion here.

I am assuming the cam angle sensor is just for the tachometer.

The crank sprocket has two sets of teeth on it, the first set is 6 teeth and I am assuming it has to do with either spark, or injector pulse. The second set of teeth is 12 teeth arranged evenly around the pulley. I did a little division (with the help of my calculator on my cell phone) and have come up with 30 degrees. every 30 degrees of rotation one of the teeth on the pulley pass under the sensor. does anyone know what those teeth are for? I am thinking 12 teeth, divided by 6 cylinders gives me two. each cylinder will hit TDC twice per cycle, once on the compression, and once on exhaust. maybe these teeth tell the ECU when it is hitting TDC and the first set of teeth tell it when to inject the fuel, or when the spark the plugs?

Anyways just trying to get a bit of info or someone else's speculation on the matter.

This project hasn't been put on hold but has certainly lost momentum. I will tinker around with the exhaust work, and oil and water systems for the turbo a bit this weekend. Next weekend I will hit the engine swap hard since I will have four days to devote to it and I am working it alone. Hopefully then there will be a running SVX that I can start driving again. Thx for the info thus far, and I am sure I will lean on you guys for more info as the project (slowly) moves to completion.