Remote Mount Turbo - Page 7

michael · #91 03-05-2012, 04:55 PM

Stupid question but did you put the snorkel back on correctly?

Subaru Alliance · #92 03-05-2012, 05:41 PM

another update. I have narrowed it down to just the fuel circuit meaning the pump and the injectors. I give it a hit of starting fluid and it fires right up. However I don't think the issue with the pump and injectors are two separate issues, I think it is one common issue affecting both.

thanks for the advice harvey, I can assume the coils are good because it runs on starting fluid, I will however heed your advice about checking the injectors for voltage.

Yes I did put the snorkel back on correctly. This is the issue I was having yesterday, I pulled the ECU out and then took the casing apart to inspect everything, it was good, I put the same ECU (94) back in and then it fired right up but didn't want to idle, (icingdeath88 pointed my vacuums were jacked up) I make some corrections and tried to start the vehicle to test my corrections and now the same issue is back. Icingdeath88 also pointed out that the ECU's have the same pinouts between the 92 and 94, so I swapped the ECU's and the same problem persists. I will check for voltage at the injectors.

I think tomorrow I will swap the ECU's back and at least check that the ROM is still installed correctly, because I just noticed that my check engine doesn't illuminate when in the run position but without the engine running. not sure if this is normal but I did read that someone else had i think a stage 1v5 that fell out and they mentioned to hot glue it in.

On the ECUTUNE website it says you can key it up and the check engine light will illuminate to test that the ROM is installed correctly, but I am not sure if that is EVERY time, or just the FIRST time you key it up after installing the ROM?

Subaru Alliance · #93 03-05-2012, 05:55 PM

ok so after checking voltage at the injector I have about 9.5v at the front passenger side injector.

I checked the voltage at the coil, I unplugged the blue connector by the starter and checked voltage and got about a half a volt with it keyed up. but by the time I took the reading it had been setting keyed up for about 15-20 seconds.

Subaru Alliance · #94 03-06-2012, 04:45 PM

alright, I pulled the ecu out and took the case off the ROM was partially unplugged, so I took it all the way out and bent the connecting legs outwards on both sides just a little bit and plugged it back in. It definitely felt firmer going back into the socket so I don't think that will be an issue anymore. The car is still running the 92 ECU. Once I reinstalled the ecu the car started right up but still runs real rough. I got an injector tester, with the engine running I unplugged the injectors one at a time on the drivers side and plugged the tester in and it was lighting up in pulses. I did the same thing on the passenger side and nothing. I shut the car off(let it stall out) and disconnected the two grounds at the passenger back side of the intake manifold and lightly sanded them down, and put a dab of dielectric grease on them and re installed. checked the injectors again on the passenger side and all were good.

I took it for a short test drive and it was running decently, but after a trip around the block it started missing hard. I am thinking the passenger side injectors are intermittently missing. It still stalls out if you let it idle as though it has a big vacuum leak. I visually inspected the hoses and they all look good. I may hit around the intake with small shots of starting fluid to see if I can narrow down this vacuum leak.

I also unplugged the MAF while the engine was running and it stalled right out, (I think that means it's working).

The car also smoked real bad when I first started it up, but I held the throttle to maintain 2 - 2500 rpms and the smoke cleared up, and also the engine was running real good, no misses or anything, if you let off the throttle it will run good down to about 1500rpms and then it starts cackling and coughing and chokes itself down to stall out. The car also seemed to smell like fuel as though it were running rich(could just be me though). I will continue to trace down vacuums, as well as testing the injectors more tomorrow, the pain in the butt is from here on out I will need a second person to keep the engine running.

anyways there's the update for now. any ideas or suggestions are appreciated.

92 SVX · #95 03-06-2012, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Subaru Alliance

alright, I pulled the ecu out and took the case off the ROM was partially unplugged, so I took it all the way out and bent the connecting legs outwards on both sides just a little bit and plugged it back in. It definitely felt firmer going back into the socket so I don't think that will be an issue anymore. The car is still running the 92 ECU. Once I reinstalled the ecu the car started right up but still runs real rough. I got an injector tester, with the engine running I unplugged the injectors one at a time on the drivers side and plugged the tester in and it was lighting up in pulses. I did the same thing on the passenger side and nothing. I shut the car off(let it stall out) and disconnected the two grounds at the passenger back side of the intake manifold and lightly sanded them down, and put a dab of dielectric grease on them and re installed. checked the injectors again on the passenger side and all were good.

I took it for a short test drive and it was running decently, but after a trip around the block it started missing hard. I am thinking the passenger side injectors are intermittently missing. It still stalls out if you let it idle as though it has a big vacuum leak. I visually inspected the hoses and they all look good. I may hit around the intake with small shots of starting fluid to see if I can narrow down this vacuum leak.

I also unplugged the MAF while the engine was running and it stalled right out, (I think that means it's working).

The car also smoked real bad when I first started it up, but I held the throttle to maintain 2 - 2500 rpms and the smoke cleared up, and also the engine was running real good, no misses or anything, if you let off the throttle it will run good down to about 1500rpms and then it starts cackling and coughing and chokes itself down to stall out. The car also seemed to smell like fuel as though it were running rich(could just be me though). I will continue to trace down vacuums, as well as testing the injectors more tomorrow, the pain in the butt is from here on out I will need a second person to keep the engine running.

anyways there's the update for now. any ideas or suggestions are appreciated.

I would use throttle body cleaner, or wd40 as you may find worse case scenario's a little easier to deal with vs the starting fluid.

Myxalplyx · #96 03-07-2012, 02:26 AM

Very cool project! Thanks for sharing this with everyone. I'll be back on and off the site to be reading up on this one. Creative!

Subaru Alliance · #97 03-07-2012, 04:51 AM

good suggestion 92svx. I will go that route first( WD40/TB cleaner), and save the big guns (starting fluid) if I need it.

Subaru Alliance · #98 03-07-2012, 05:17 PM

You ever notice how the best stories always start out one of two ways?
1) Hold my beer...............
2) What happened was.......

So here's my story: What happened was, I bought some OEM replacement spark plugs (which had to be ordered) when I first started on the rebuild of the 92 engine. My wife helped me out by "cleaning" the carport for me. Once I was completed with the gasket set and all this, I couldn't find the OEM plugs anywhere, so I went and bought whatever cheap ones that were in stock that happened to fit the SVX. most places only had four in stick so after some running I found 6 and bought those. After installing them and dropping the engine in wouldn't you know it I found the OEM ones. I remember the 92 engine had a misfire when I started it in the 92 car before I pulled it out and I assumed it was a spark plug.

I also know that the 94 engine ran fine, so I decided to replace the spark plugs with the OEM ones and the coils with the 94. I only had really an hour of daylight left after work today so I swapped out the passenger side plugs and coils. So far this hasn't made a difference at all, but I will continue on with the drivers side tomorrow after work.

Once the drivers side is swapped out, if there is still no difference then I will troubleshoot the vacuum hoses (which I haven't even started on yet) and then continue on troubleshooting.

I am still in high spirits rather than let it get me down, I try to think of it as a test or a battle if you will, the fault is testing my ability to find and repair the issue.

Anyways that's it for today, as always suggestions are welcome. Oh and an update on the "build" is that I have received my heavy duty electric oil pump, which is 475GPH / 30something LPM @6psi. can run fluids at 100*C/212*F continuous temperature, and now I am waiting on my oil fitting.

Subaru Alliance · #99 03-09-2012, 04:53 PM

So what happened was....... I replaced all 6 spark plugs and coil packs. the car does run a little better, but still doesn't want to idle once warmed up. even when cold it struggles to idle but idles. I quickly hit the vacuums with some starting fluid and no change, so it doesn't appear to have a vacuum leak, but I will have the chance to check it out in more detail tomorrow. I will focus my efforts on checking all the vacuum lines one at a time.

Anyways that's the update, I will check it out again tomorrow.
So far replaced the plugs, and coils. unplugged the front two injectors on each side of the engine and it definitely made the rpms drop, so I know those injectors are good.

I will check out the remaining injectors, and the vacuum lines.

Also the check engine light is on, but I can't locate the connectors to see what codes it's throwing, I have looked all over under the dash with no luck.

I bet it's an easy fix, most likely something small I am overlooking, so tomorrow I will go picture crazy of what I can get and post it up on here so you can see what's goin on.

Subaru Alliance · #**100** 03-10-2012, 08:01 PM

another update. I replaced the throttle body because it was original to the car (94) and easy to do. no difference. I did get an automotive stethoscope from my neighbor and I have come to the conclusion that I have 1 or 2 intermittently dead injectors, so I am gonna have to start getting new injectors after checking my wiring again.

In the mean time I still have to cut a hole in my exhaust to mount the external waste gate, replace my oil fitting on the turbo, and electric oil pump, then plumb in the water cooling.

Here are some pics of what I could get from the vacuum hoses. Maybe someone will see something I missed.

In this picture the hose that is open on the intake doesn't have any vacuum on it, the one on the throttle body has a bolt in it. even a direct shot to both hoses with starting fluid makes no difference in idling.

I hit all these hoses as best I could with the engine running with direct shots of starting fluid. Also the orange spot on the snorkel in photo 4 was that it had a crack on it right there, it was original to the car and idled fine on the other engine. I used RTV to seal up the crack, and once again a large shot of starting fluid to that spot directly had no effect on the engine. Also there is no guarantee that starting fluid will identify every case of vacuum leaks.

icingdeath88 · #**101** 03-10-2012, 08:34 PM

How did you do the injector wiring? New Z32 plugs or modding the stock plugs to go into the SR20 injectors? The engine and everything is well grounded, right?

The injectors you got were used, right? They could just be bad. I am debating sending mine off for flow testing. I have 11 total though, so I was thinking to use the best 6 of the bunch.

Tapani · #**102** 03-10-2012, 08:59 PM

If the only issue is running real rich on idle is the FPR and its vacuum tube ok and correctly connected? Do you have a hand held vacuum pump?

With the stage 2 mine runs initially (after battery disconnection) quite rich before the adaption process corrects the AFR (fuel trim). Takes quite a while driving around....

If you keep the AC on the idle speed is around 900 rpm (w/o 575-600rpm). Does this make any better?

If you had a some kind of tool to see what the ECU is doing all this would be a lot easier. Time fo ECUTuner or something similar?

Br,

Tapani

Subaru Alliance · #**103** 03-10-2012, 09:14 PM

Yes I got used injectors, they came with the connectors already on them, so I de-pinned the OEM connectors and put the aftermarket ones on the stock harness. as far as I know the FPR is hooked up correctly, I will try to get a good pic of that tomorrow. Yes the engine is well grounded, I checked the starter ground, intake harness ground (back passenger side of intake), Horn bracket ground, and I moved the ground from the A/C bracket to the drivers front of the intake manifold. I don't think I forgot any, I will check the resistance from the block and intake to the battery tomorrow just to be safe.

thanks for the info tapani, I think I have noticed it running less and less rich at startup, but not sure if it was just me hoping. it is certainly starting to smoke less at startup and smell less and less like fuel at startup.

I do not have a hand held vacuum pump.
Luckily for me the A/C compressor is not installed which sux because she had some COLD COLD A/C to help combat the ANGRY georgia summers.

I appreciate the ideas, with our powers combined we can figure this out

Tapani · #**104** 03-10-2012, 09:28 PM

You should get a vacuum pump for $20 at your local autostore.... they come with a gauge too, quite handy.

If my memory serves me correctly the idle speed is increased even tho the compressor is disconnected if you press "AUTO" on the AC panel.

A leaking or stuck injector can be seen with for example the ECUTUner - you can monitor lambda values and fuel trim parameters separately for both banks. A fuel pressure issue will affect all cylinders......

One idea is to switch back to OEM injectors, MAF and software untill you get it running again ..... the stock MAF is good for at least 250hp worth of air. Mine saturated at around 5000 rpm @ 5 PSI boost. So it's all okay for testing purposes - even for the turbo system.

Br,

Tapani

PS And by running rich initially I mean AFR values around 13.... no fuel smell on the exhaust. After adaption it hovers nicely around 14,7 - like it should.
PS2 Did you replace /check the injector o-rings? A small seep will have the same effect as a leaking injector....

Subaru Alliance · #**105** 03-10-2012, 09:32 PM

that is a good idea tapani. the only issue will be is that both of my ECU's have the resistor chopped so it will ignore internal memory and look for the ROM socket. I suppose I could solder in a piece of wire just for testing sake but I am not sure how it will affect it just having a wire there instead of a resistor. I may go that route.

I have no idea why I didn't think of that, none the less I may give it a go. Also I will look for a vacuum pump tomorrow.
Yes I did replace the injector o rings. I can try the auto button on the climate control to see if that makes a difference. When the engine is cold it struggles to idle but idles, once it warms up it will stall out if left idling for more than 1.5-2 seconds.