Mid Engine SVX concept.

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by brumbyrunner

Hard to tell from the pic but does that crossmember successfully clearence the water pump, oil pump and oil filter?
Also, when you say the exhaust will route "between the rocker covers..." do you mean it will run from the manifold (in the first pic), up in front of the timing covers and then turn rearwards over the heads?

Looks like it will clear the oil pump itself, the oil filter could be relocated since the engine in this will have a dry sump. The oil pan doesn't look like it will fit, but again that doesn't matter because of the dry sump. The water pump itself looks like it will clear. The thermostat housing/water pump inlet will not be a stock one regardless, it'll have a bigger diameter, so it could be made to point in a completely different direction.

Not sure on the exhaust.

[Dessertrunner]

Hi Guys,
A lot of questions so if I don't answer all please ask again.
The exhaust and sump were there just to show how much lower the engine is they are not to be used in the final.
- Current oil filter position is dead being moved up top and the exiting housing milled off. Dry sump pump will be on top of motor and changed to 3 stage. 2 stages sucking from sump and pressure to block. Oil will be feed direct to the top two galleries on the top of the block.
- Water pump will clear just, will be a slight dent in the tube (heat and dent) for the water pump and the CV joint onto the gearbox. Every thing is right on the limit to enable the engine to go as low as possiable.
- Engine mounts are pretty solid as are the new gearbox mount I am currently building.
- Bill I am of 2 minds on the Corvette arms, while they fit well I need to have a steeling arm on the upright due to the corvette arms having bottom ball joints. It makes it more difficult for me to keep the correct angle when the wheel moves up and down. They do fit well and they look the part so maybe I just need to get my head around them a bit better.

- Harvey my jump in here but I am going to narrow exhaust pipes for the first 400mm in stead of 1 3/4 I will do it in 1 1/2 then into a 3in pipe. My logic is that I want the velociety in the pipe to have a hi scavenge effect to get the last bit of gas out of the cyclinder at hi revs. The small pipe will only make it harder when the valve first opens which is the time the exhaust has the most power.

Hope that covers all your quetions.

Tony

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

- Current oil filter position is dead being moved up top and the exiting housing milled off. Dry sump pump will be on top of motor and changed to 3 stage. 2 stages sucking from sump and pressure to block. Oil will be feed direct to the top two galleries on the top of the block.

So you're not going to have the pump also pulling from the heads, on each side? Just 2 point suction from the pan?

[Dessertrunner]

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

So you're not going to have the pump also pulling from the heads, on each side? Just 2 point suction from the pan?

Correct, I think the oil from the heads is over kill now that I have worked through a number of issues with the engine.
Tony

[brumbyrunner]

I'm in the process of dry-sumping an EJ20 and I'm also using a 3 stage pump with 2 stages of scavenge direct from the oil pan. My initial plan was to run the oil pressure feed directly into the factory oil filter location and then use a remote mounted oil filter.

After mocking everything up, I decided it was all too messy and now I using the factory oil filter in the factory location. I'm running the oil pressure feed into the bottom of the (gutted) oil pump so that the oil flows straight to the filter and then follows the oil path as designed by FUJI.

Your idea of running the pressure feed into the top of the block intrigues me as it would suit my high clearance objective and save lots of custom work on the oil pump housing. I did think of it early on, but couldn't guarantee it would work, so dismissed the whole idea. I'm keen to see if it works for you.

[Dessertrunner]

Hi Brumbyrunner,
I have the design of the oil pump so I can take it fully off and bolt a blank plate in its place. The oil filtes nipple can be removed and a 14mm plug installed.

How are you going to drive the pump? Also what type of pump are you going to use? The Dailey I am goiing to use has a pressure reg on its ass next to the pressure pump.

Tony

[brumbyrunner]

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Hi Brumbyrunner,
I have the design of the oil pump so I can take it fully off and bolt a blank plate in its place. The oil filtes nipple can be removed and a 14mm plug installed.
How are you going to drive the pump? Also what type of pump are you going to use? The Dailey I am goiing to use has a pressure reg on its ass next to the pressure pump.
Tony

I found it easier just to pull the guts out of the pump and use the housing instead of making a blank plate but that would work fine too. It's not like you can see it.
The oil filter thread is M20x1.5. I'm using a nipple to fit a genuine oil filter straight up to the block without the factory oil cooler.
I bought a 3-stage Peterson oil pump, it has an integrated pressure relief valve. Looked at Dailey and Nutter which both have good reputations but these guys had the best range and service.

[Dessertrunner]

Brumbyrunner,
What water pump are you running and is the thermostate still in?
Tony

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Brumbyrunner,
What water pump are you running and is the thermostate still in?
Tony

Just want to point out, in case you didn't notice, he's working with an EJ20, not an EG33.

[Dessertrunner]

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

Just want to point out, in case you didn't notice, he's working with an EJ20, not an EG33.

Thanks,
I already realized it was a different engine.
Tony

[brumbyrunner]

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Brumbyrunner,
What water pump are you running and is the thermostate still in?
Tony

Turbo water pump. The non-turbo one would suit me better as it only has one extra 1/2" inlet but it hangs down too low.
No thermostat. Coolant flow is controlled by an electric pump. Standard non-turbo radiator, mounted in the back.
Runs very cool. If I leave the fans on at idle, the temp will come down to 40*C.

[Dessertrunner]

Did some mods to the other dry sump so it can be used on this job. On the mid engine I am only going to worry about 3 stage pump.
Here it is.
Tony

[icingdeath88]

Looks great. I love this thread. Got any pics of the other side?

Looks like both suction ports are going to be pulling from the same area. I would think it would be better to have one at the front and one at the back? Or on either side?

[Dessertrunner]

Its more about pulling the surge volume out when it comes in from the heads when the car changes direction and have the high capicaity.
Here is the top side.
Tony

[Dessertrunner]

Okay I have been busy here are some shoots. Milled the upright from a 37kg block of steel down to 3.4kg. This means I can use the front axles in the rear of the car.
Tony