Getting ready to replace flexplate

1986nate · #1 10-01-2008, 01:34 PM

So I bought my first svx a few weeks ago and just after a few days of driving developed a knocking/ticking noise and by searching through this forum was able to figure it out it was the flexplate and nothing more serious. Now I'm starting to order parts and get ready to do it and I'm wondering if it is necessary under any and what circumstances to replace the bolts or if I should just reuse the old ones. No one has really said anything about getting new ones but don't wanna have to wait another week waiting for 5 bucks in bolts.
Also I plan on doing the ball joints as one is bad and I will be taking them apart anyway in the process (plan on removing ball joints and just moving transmission back and not full removal of the transmission)- And again am wondering if it is necessary to get new bolts and nuts for the ball joints. This I've heard is recommended but for all nuts and bolts needed its over $20.
I don't want to seem like a cheap-a** just saving every little bit helps for future repairs down the road.

Any input or advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks-Nate

Crazy_pilot · #2 10-01-2008, 01:39 PM

I replace nuts and bolts almost any time I'm taking things apart, but my car has seen 16 hard winters and the hardware is all pretty ugly. For the ball joint, the three bolts into the control arm are pretty heavy and solid. Mine old ones looked fine in the protected spots. Re-using them probably wouldn't have been a problem. But the pinch bolt (the smaller one that goes through the knuckle) is pretty thin, so that one I would change.

1986nate · #3 10-01-2008, 01:45 PM

I just double checked and none of the bolts/nuts have any rust at all but I do see what you mean about the pinch bolt being pretty weak comparatively to the flange bolts.

1986nate · #4 10-25-2008, 05:12 AM

Where are the alignment pins located between the engine and transmission? And how do you make sure its all lined up correctly? I definitely don't want to have to go through this again in the near future?

gstape · #5 10-25-2008, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Where are the alignment pins located between the engine and transmission? And how do you make sure its all lined up correctly? I definitely don't want to have to go through this again in the near future?

There are two studs that come out of the engine to help start the alignment, and then there are two dowels located a little ways above the studs. THey could either end up in the transmission or the engine when you pull it.

1986nate · #6 10-25-2008, 09:23 AM

okay, thanks

kwren · #7 10-26-2008, 09:55 PM

The Ball joint bolts and nuts should be good till the Lord returns, especially if you tighten them so good that no one but you can loosen them!!

Those are pretty big pups!

Keith

Hondasucks · #8 10-26-2008, 10:03 PM

Be VERY careful when putting the transmission back in, make sure the torque converter is fully seated into the transmission. The transmission should slide all the way up to the engine and fully seat (I put grease on the alignment dowels to help it slide in better). DO NOT cinch the transmission down with the bolts if it won't slide in all the way, if you force it and the torque converter is not fully seated, it will destroy the hydraulic pump in the transmission (That's what happened to mine before I bought it).

1986nate · #9 10-26-2008, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondasucks

Be VERY careful when putting the transmission back in, make sure the torque converter is fully seated into the transmission. The transmission should slide all the way up to the engine and fully seat (I put grease on the alignment dowels to help it slide in better). DO NOT cinch the transmission down with the bolts if it won't slide in all the way, if you force it and the torque converter is not fully seated, it will destroy the hydraulic pump in the transmission (That's what happened to mine before I bought it).

I've gotten that from reading through all the different threads on anything involved with reinstalling a transmission.

1986nate · #10 10-30-2008, 10:00 AM

How do you turn the driveshaft to get to the last companion flange attaching bolt?

Edit: Nevermind, I had a complete dumba$$ moment. I apologize for the stupidity

1986nate · #11 10-30-2008, 02:52 PM

How many bolts are there that mount the transmission to the engine? All I see is the 2 that are right above the steering rack that you take the nuts off and the studs are left in. Am I taking off the right ones? or are there others that need to be undone as well?

wantafastsvx · #12 10-30-2008, 02:56 PM

Two at the top of the motor as well. One in the starter and one on the pass. side engine.

1986nate · #13 10-30-2008, 03:34 PM

alright I got those and I have jacked up on the engine some and I still can't get the trans and engine to separate. I have a jack under the trans and I have tried lowering it a little and raising it a little and trying to jar it loose but It still shows no sign of separating. I have also carefully tried prying on the bell housing and it still won't com loose. Its pissing me off and I'm not sure what else to try.

Any help or advice would greatly be appreciated

-Nate

Maxo · #14 10-31-2008, 08:29 AM

When I replaced my transmission it was a real pain to get off too. I found a couple small edges where the transmission extended past the motor that I could pound on with a bar and mallet and it worked beautifully. The one is by the alignment hole on the lower passenger side and I think the other was up by the starter (after removal of course).
Hope this helps.

1986nate · #15 10-31-2008, 12:58 PM

Alright I have tried prying on the transmission with a crowbar with all my strength and it won't budge. I don't know what to do now, it sucks i've gotten this far only to be stuck not being able to get the trans separated.... Just to clarify, there are 2 nuts on the bottom just above the steering rack, and 2 bolts on top-one that comes out when you take the starter off and one on pretty much the exact opposite side? Am I missing any?