11:1 Engine Rebuild - Page 6

icingdeath88 · #76 07-25-2010, 02:50 PM

That black paint came out really good. What are you going to do with the plenum? Paint it black too? I was thinking of doing something cool with the extra one I have.

Cam · #77 07-26-2010, 06:18 PM

You never see the missed spots until after you take the masking tape off

It did turn out pretty well though, and a little touch up will make it look even better. Thanks for the compliment.

I actually have a powder coated plenum. (Thanks Mike621)

Got one side of the head on today, with clay on the piston dome. All the clearances checked out as the clay was at least 1/8th" thick everywhere. I was only able to use 4 head bolts, as subaru (in their infinite and omnipotent wisdom) sent me 8 long head bolts for each side. I should have checked earlier, but you live and learn.

I don't imagine having the other 4 bolts would make any real difference. I used the middle piston for my test, and used the 4 long bolts around the periphery of that piston. So after Subaru sends me 8 new bolts, I will reassemble the heads and valve covers

.

Then comes the fun part....

I am off to the garage to clean up a bit and take some pictures for you guys.

Oh yeah, on a side note, the head gasket looks perfectly fine even though it was included in the stackup. With no visual damage, I am assuming it is still kosher to use again?

icingdeath88 · #78 07-26-2010, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

I actually have a powder coated plenum. (Thanks Mike621)

What color? Got pics? I was thinking of grinding down and polishing the crap out of mine and then having it powdercoated clear. Either that or powdercoating/painting it black. (Probably paint it first to see how it looks and then powdercoating it for longevity.)

Cam · #79 07-26-2010, 06:23 PM

It is black. If you want a pic I can take one for you when I take my engine shots so you can see what it looks like black. It was not ground down or polished, it is stock other than the powdercoating. He may have more, it was a good deal (120 bucks or so, IIRC).

TomsSVX · #80 07-26-2010, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Okay, so, here are the rough measurements I took today.

Piston protrusion past head gasket - 3/16"
depth of dish on head - 1/2 "
spark plug protrusion from head - 3/16"

1/2" - 3/16" - 3/16" = 1/8"

I don't think my piston will swell an 1/8"

, but to get more relyable measurements I will use some clay on my domes and run the crank over to see how much space I have. Wish my luck (will probably get around to it tomorrow). I will also take some pics then. Gotta love pics

I would clay the combustion chamber and run the pistons up while the heads are bolted down but not torqued all the way. This should shed some light on what I am talking about

Tom

Cam · #81 07-26-2010, 06:47 PM

I did that today. A couple of posts up I mention it. I suppose I did not go into great detail. I set clay on the number 4 piston and torqued the middle 4 fasteners down all the way. Then I ran the crank over 1 full rotation very slowly (started cylinder 4 at BDC). The smallest gap I saw was 1/10" but quickly grew to over 1/8". I also believe the headgasket is still in good working order, since you cannot visually tell it was torqued down as it has no deformation of any kind. The 4 used bolts are, however, toast.

TomsSVX · #82 07-26-2010, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

I did that today. A couple of posts up I mention it. I suppose I did not go into great detail. I set clay on the number 4 piston and torqued the middle 4 fasteners down all the way. Then I ran the crank over 1 full rotation very slowly (started cylinder 4 at BDC). The smallest gap I saw was 1/10" but quickly grew to over 1/8". I also believe the headgasket is still in good working order, since you cannot visually tell it was torqued down as it has no deformation of any kind. The 4 used bolts are, however, toast.

on the outer edages of the dome??

Tom

Cam · #83 07-26-2010, 08:06 PM

Yes, the outer edges of the dome are where I got the 1/10th measurement/estimate. I say estimate because I doubt the clay I used was the most accurate stuff in the world, but when being compressed, it did quite well at not shifting once the pressure on it was alleviated.

Cam · #84 07-27-2010, 01:37 PM

Last night I purged my lash adjusters...well, 2 of them. The others had no oil inside and were completely collapsed. Unfortunately, 23 of them were completely shot, with 1 being in good condition

No sense replacing all but one, so I will do them all.

Each one cost about $34 on subaruparts.com and there are 24. I need all of them. Anyone have a good source to keep the cost down? (thats $816 before tax or shipping).

Cam · #85 07-28-2010, 10:47 PM

So today I realized that the way I measured my clearance was idiotic to say the least...

Using the HG on the heads as a template, I clayed the inboard side of the head, and then redid my test. It looks like the outside of the dome is sitting at about .025" clearance, and there is no solid contact anywhere. However, there was some resistance up at TDC. Is it likely that was just the cylinder holding some compression? Tom, when you did your test, what was your experience with your clearance and the resistance up at TDC? Dan's engine is the only other one I am aware of that is running these pistons.

Bad news is that I am waiting on parts...

Here is a couple pics of the block, the cylinders with the slugs loaded (I like the way that sounds), and my intake manifold. Enjoy.

Cam · #86 07-30-2010, 10:06 PM

Progress...

Yesterday, after a phone conversation with LAN, I went back and tore my pistons out of the block. I did so because he informed me that the wrist pins on the pistons were offset on the left side. On the right, however, they were perfectly in the centerline of the piston. After tearing out and inspecting, I found that I had inadvertently swapped the number 5 and number 6 pistons. They were a complete pain to get out, even though they were easy to install. A little ingenuity and drive and they were removed, corrected, and the block was reassembled. Good thing I caught that (THANKS LAN) before installing the heads, because it would have made the car run like crap and have piston slap.

After all of the fun I laid .050" solder around the side of the dome on my piston, partially installed the head (same as before) and ran the crank around. After using a micrometer to check the thickness of the solder, I came up with .034" gap for my pistons. I am completely comfortable with this, so I pressed on.

Today I installed the heads. All surfaces were chemically cleaned just prior to installation. The head gaskets were sprayed with copper sealant spray, and everything was torqued down per the FSM. Starting to really look like a motor now, and pretty clean if I say so myself. I am still waiting to get the valve covers on before I touch up the engine enamel again.

Cam · #87 07-30-2010, 10:06 PM

The last couple pictures here are just a mock up. Those parts are not yet ready to install. I just simply could not resist.

NeedForSpeed · #88 07-30-2010, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

The last couple pictures here are just a mock up. Those parts are not yet ready to install. I just simply could not resist.

Very nice!

The pistons were probably marked for front, but the ceramic coat covered up the mark?

Cam · #89 07-30-2010, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeedForSpeed

Very nice!

The pistons were probably marked for front, but the ceramic coat covered up the mark?

I do not believe so. I cannot be sure, though. The coating is not very thick. Either way, no harm no foul. Just glad to have caught it early. I am now waiting to buy those lash adjusters. I have parts to rebuild the oil pump on their way, as well as a couple other things to keep me busy in the meantime. Still need to order new stuff for intake manifold (hoses and solenoids). Need to paint cam covers (the pieces on the front of the heads between them and the valve covers) and the stacks for the intake.

She is coming along though...

NeedForSpeed · #90 07-31-2010, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Progress...

Yesterday, after a phone conversation with LAN, I went back and tore my pistons out of the block. I did so because he informed me that the wrist pins on the pistons were offset on the left side. On the right, however, they were perfectly in the centerline of the piston. After tearing out and inspecting, I found that I had inadvertently swapped the number 5 and number 6 pistons. They were a complete pain to get out, even though they were easy to install. A little ingenuity and drive and they were removed, corrected, and the block was reassembled. Good thing I caught that (THANKS LAN) before installing the heads, because it would have made the car run like crap and have piston slap.

Why only the left side piston pins offset, and not the right?
Are the pins offset for performance or for quiet operation?
EDIT: Should have reread more cafefully, for piston slap.
EDIT: NOT NEEDED ON RIGHT BANK BECAUSE THRUST IS ON UPPER WALL AND SLAP NOT AN ISSUE??
How did you know the difference between pistons, .020" is hard to see?
Aren't you happy you didn't have to swap #3 and #4

Keep up the great work