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#1
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Re: DDM Tuning (Apexcone HID's)
You could use a 9005 bulb in place of the 9006 in that projector, for more lumens, while maintaining the correct filament location- "convert 9005 to fit 9006.
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#2
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Re: DDM Tuning (Apexcone HID's)
lol you can't tell me that HIDs aren't a good upgrade just because our housings weren't meant for that shape of light pattern. It may not be as optimized as can be but they're so much better than halogens. First time driving a car with stock headlights after being so used to my HIDs I thought I only had the fogs on!
HIDs in our cars are a big improvement, they don't blind other drivers and in my experience, they have not garnered any attention from cops. I dont care what the math says lol |
#3
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Re: DDM Tuning (Apexcone HID's)
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Out here in rural country I prefer the a$$ kicking HIDs at the lower temperature ranges. On the Claret she has 4300k low beams and 5000k high beams, and when I am out with my 60yo brown eyes, after 45 or more years of welding, it makes my driving safer for everybody! And, no I have not been flashed by other drivers. Their 3' off the ground factory installed HIDs blind me, but they are legal.
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#4
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Re: DDM Tuning (Apexcone HID's)
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"A halogen bulb has a cylindrical light source: the glowing filament. The space immediately surrounding the cylinder of light is completely dark, and so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is along the edges of the cylinder of light. The ends of the filament cylinder fade from bright to dark. An HID bulb, on the other hand, has a crescent-shaped light source -- the arc. It's crescent-shaped because as it passes through the space between the two electrodes, its heat causes it to try to rise. The space immediately surrounding the crescent of light glows in layers...the closer to the crescent of light, the brighter the glow. The ends of the arc crescent are the brightest points, and immediately beyond these points is completely dark, so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is at the ends of the crescent of light. This diagram shows the very different characteristics of the filament vs. the arc: When designing the optics (lens and/or reflector) for a lamp, the characteristics of the light source are the driving factor around which everything else must be engineered. If you go and change the light source, you've done the equivalent of putting on somebody else's eyeglasses: You can probably make them fit on your face OK, but you won't see properly. Here are some downloadable PDF tests done by DOT and CalCoast Labs on halogen headlamps equipped with "HID kits": Test #1, with 9004 "HID kit" vs. 9004 bulb Test #2, with 9006 "HID kit" vs. 9006 bulb Test #3, with 9004 "HID kit" vs. 9004 bulb And here is a documentary done by Auto Express showing the results of installing "HID kits" in UN ("ECE", "E-code", "European") headlamps, which are designed for notably tight control of glare on low beam: https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=Y5n38wDe684 Now, what about those "retrofit" jobs in which the beam cutoff still appears sharp? Don't be fooled; it's an error to judge a beam pattern solely by its cutoff. In many lamps, especially the projector types, the cutoff will remain the same regardless of what light source is behind it. Halogen bulb, HID capsule, cigarette lighter, firefly, hold it up to the sun—whatever. That's because of the way a projector lamp works. The cutoff is simply the projected image of a piece of metal running side-to-side behind the lens. Where the optics come in is in distributing the light under the cutoff. And, as with all other automotive lamps (and, in fact, all optical instruments), the optics are calculated based not just on where the light source is within the lamp (focal length) but also the specific photometric characteristics of the light source...which parts of it are brighter, which parts of it are darker, where the boundaries of the light source are, whether the boundaries are sharp or fuzzy, the shape of the light source, and so forth." Read up, gain knowledge, profit. |
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