lan's engine build and engine build how to

[lhopp77]

Originally Posted by longassname

Your high miles engine is probably fine. Most EG33's are high mileage and most of them are fine. It's not the mileage; it's the treatment.

Not all high mileage. I still have one with 2,792 miles on it. And a tranny with the same.

Lee

[longassname]

The timing covers all went on at 45 inch pounds with blue loctite. The crank pulley was torqued to the middle of the factory spec range with blue loctite. A new engine harness was installed along with new knock sensors, coil packs, and NGK laser iridium ifr6e11 spark plugs.





I primed the engine with oil at this point. If I had made a mess it would have been easier to clean up with out the manifold on yet but I didn't make a mess. Pay attention here: this is an experienced engine builder's trick you should learn if you want to build an engine. I hooked up a pump to the port where the oil pressure sensor goes. It's a metric thread obviously but I happen to already have the adaptor as part of my transmission pressure guage set. I used an old svx fuel pump for the pump and it worked well. Wired a ground up to a 12 volt battery and gave myself a positive wire to connect by hand for on and off, dropped the pump in a 1 quart paint pail and filled it up with mobil1 0w40. I pumped a quart through. This primes all the oil galleys and if there should be any bad stuff in any of the galleys it can wash it through without the moving parts moving--thus preventing you from blowing out your little tri-metal bearings if you were silly enough to have used them.







The injector stacks were installed to the intake manifold with new gaskets, the fuel rails were installed the the injector stacks with new gaskets ( the fuel injectors had recently/previously been installed into the fuel rails with new o-rings), new factory hoses were installed, and the manifold harness was installed. Important note: when installing fuel injectors always use new o-rings and always lubricate them with vaseline before installing them. The manifold was then installed.

[Crazy_pilot]

It's so clean and new looking!

I guess you're going to fire this one up without the blower first?

[Roo]

How much would you charge to do this rebuild on my motor??

There would be small changes to the specs from the sounds of it, as I'm keeping this vehicle N/A, but would like to know what you'd charge to build out a motor, given the motor is sent to you, along with a OE gasket set (I work in a parts dept. at a Subaru dealership).

Cams, pistons, rods, bearings, whatever you specified for your motor...

[SVXRide]

Michael,
Beautiful work! The use of the pump to prime the oil is a nice touch...not as easy as hooking up an electric drill to the shaft out of a distributor on a small block, but nice just the same
-Bill

[longassname]

I could probably do a crate engine for the same price as Subaru.

Originally Posted by Roo

How much would you charge to do this rebuild on my motor??

There would be small changes to the specs from the sounds of it, as I'm keeping this vehicle N/A, but would like to know what you'd charge to build out a motor, given the motor is sent to you, along with a OE gasket set (I work in a parts dept. at a Subaru dealership).

Cams, pistons, rods, bearings, whatever you specified for your motor...

[crazyhorse]

Originally Posted by longassname

I could probably do a crate engine for the same price as Subaru.

And very likely MUCH higher quality!

[cdigerlando]

Nice job! Thanks for documenting everything. It's a lot of work and makes it that much more difficult when you are taking pics the whole time. Let us know when you get it up and running for the break in. I'd love to here how everything goes.

[longassname]

She's up and running and boy does she run.

I finished the install late saturday. On first start up the lash adjusters were loud and did't pump up while warming up idling at 540 rpms. I gave her a quick test drive and got on it pretty good which did the trick for pumping up the lash adjusters. Once the lash adjusters pumped up the idle deteriorated at 540 rpms so I turned on the ac (which raises the idle to 750-800 rpms) and it idled very nicely. With the ac on it idles nicely at a consistent 775 rpms. I'll need to adjust the base idle to 750-775 rpms--pretty darn good for these size cams. I haven't bothered with it yet since this is fl and while you may be cold I have my ac on.

Speeking of the size cams, I installed an ecutune 3.545 trans behind the engine. I'm loving the combination; it really has long legs. I do a lot of interstate travel and it's very nice when you drop the hammer at speed and when it downshifts to 5500 rpms it takes off with loads of power coming in. I imagine with some higher compression pistons this would be a beautiful naturally aspirated set up--especially if we raise the shift points of the power mode map to speeds equivalent to 7400 rpms. I finally have a good reason to dig into the tcu. As one would expect since they are so over square these engines really like high rpms when built propperly--this is where we are going to start seeing our big power numbers.


I don't want to waste too much time playing with the timing tables when the engine isn't going to stay naturally aspirated for very long but I was able to throw in some more ignition advance for some more performance. I was also able to throw in more ignition advance than necessary to reach peak power on regular unleaded without any effect (yes I'm running regular unleaded, I'm driving around naturally aspirated with 8.5 cr why not take advantage of it). It seems very forgiving and pretty much happy with whatever you give it.

I'll see if I can hook up the old soundblaster microphone to my laptop and record a sound clip so you all can hear it....it's sweeeeeeeeeeeet

Originally Posted by cdigerlando

Nice job! Thanks for documenting everything. It's a lot of work and makes it that much more difficult when you are taking pics the whole time. Let us know when you get it up and running for the break in. I'd love to here how everything goes.

[longassname]

ah yes...
I knew I had the technology..even if it is 20 years old...the trusty soundblaster microphone from the closet


http://www.ecutune.com/posts/eg33_assembly/withac.wma
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/eg33_assembly/540rpm.wma

[SVXRide]

Michael,
Sounds like you've got a little "roll" to the idle (probably the ECU still "learning"). What exhaust system do you have hooked up to the engine? Any pics of the engine in the car? By "throw in more ignition advance" do you mean you've deviated from the timing map in the 1v5/2v7 chips?
Thanks.
-Bill

[Boxersix]

Soundblaster, haha...you sound old like me

LAN, what springs valve train springs/retainers are you guys using to bump the rev limits above 6500(subaru engine model)? I'd love to squeeze another 1K out of this beast on my kit car and use the gearing that my transmission has. 7500 rpm would put me right around 200mph with the 355 18's in the back given the right power

Oh and clean build. Been a long time since I've seen someone build a motor as clean as I do. Too bad you weren't a bit closer otherwise I'd have you stop by the machine shop and build some Porsche 3.6's with me Also have a Porsche 908 3.0 flat 8 coming in for a rebuild.

[cdigerlando]

Originally Posted by longassname

ah yes...
I knew I had the technology..even if it is 20 years old...the trusty soundblaster microphone from the closet


http://www.ecutune.com/posts/eg33_assembly/withac.wma
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/eg33_assembly/540rpm.wma

Thats great. How does it sound up top?

[longassname]

Our bearings just look so much alike you couldn't help but jump into subaru h6's?

I retain the factory retainers and outer springs and replace the inner springs with a custom one. That's with the longer custom forged valves I have made for this particular camshaft set up. The valves increase the seat height and lift before coil bind.

I didn't talk about the details of the valvetrain in this thread because I posted all the specs in my performance camshaft thread. The profiles I'm using are basically awesome and depending upon the needs of your build you can run the full set up I used which is currently listed on the ecutune website, or the 264 duration exhaust cams with stock intake cams, or 256 intake and 256 exhaust cams. As you would probably guess the 256i/256e set would be your best naturally aspirated street performers and the 264 exhaust only would be your best bet for a cheap build that doesn't fall on it's face after 5400 rpms.

Originally Posted by Boxersix

Soundblaster, haha...you sound old like me

LAN, what springs valve train springs/retainers are you guys using to bump the rev limits above 6500(subaru engine model)? I'd love to squeeze another 1K out of this beast on my kit car and use the gearing that my transmission has. 7500 rpm would put me right around 200mph with the 355 18's in the back given the right power

Oh and clean build. Been a long time since I've seen someone build a motor as clean as I do. Too bad you weren't a bit closer otherwise I'd have you stop by the machine shop and build some Porsche 3.6's with me Also have a Porsche 908 3.0 flat 8 coming in for a rebuild.

[longassname]

Same old exhaust system still. 2.25" dual with an x pipe and pair of dynomax superturbo mufflers--I really don't like the xpipe--it needs a crossflow muffler there(which i have but still haven't installed).

By throw in more advance I mean deviated from 2v7. Nothing to be taken seriously--this isn't really an engine set up to be run naturally aspirated so there's no reason to tune it for that...I just wanted to check and see.

I suppose I can take a picture of the engine in the car tomorrow. You won't see anything special--just my engine in my car.

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Michael,
Sounds like you've got a little "roll" to the idle (probably the ECU still "learning"). What exhaust system do you have hooked up to the engine? Any pics of the engine in the car? By "throw in more ignition advance" do you mean you've deviated from the timing map in the 1v5/2v7 chips?
Thanks.
-Bill