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#31
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
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Ok heres another question. Would Having a EG33 Bored to 3.5L will it still be ok for using for normal road use... Like having the bore walls thinner could they go out of round quicker etc? or End up with engine failure quicker?
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1992 NZDM SVX Maroonish Red/Black ( 1st car ive owned with an cd player ) Has been retired 1989 Vortex 6 Maroon 1983 RX Silver Grey 1973 1400 GSR Yelo 2 Door Coupe awaiting Restoration |
#32
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
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You don't just bore it out of what is there. To go to 3.5 litres you would replace the liners with different thicker ones, so the liners when bored would be as strong as [or stronger than!] standard. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#33
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
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Jack's engine was bored out to 100 mm with the standard liners. So far it has survived numerous dyno sessions and some parking-lot antics, but it has yet to see track duty this year. His machinist used Jack's spare (junk) block as a test dummy, and they drilled some holes through the stock sleeves into the water jacket. They seemed satisfied with the wall thickness for a N/A application. I can't comment since I don't know the actual wall thickness myself. |
#34
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
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1992 LSL Pearlie: 108k, 15min/$15 mod, Alternator wiring "upgrade," Power Mode switch, K&N drop-in, 4500k 35w low-beam HIDs, 3000k 35w fog HIDs, lots more planned (pending funds, of course)- 4.44 5spd being at the top of the list. "We laugh at honour and are shocked to find traitors in our midst." -C.S. Lewis |
#35
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
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He measured the factory sleeve wall thickness at about 0.160", and as I remember we thought that we could bore the cylinder out to 100mm to match popular pistons, and available head gaskets. The aluminum casting surounding the sleeve is about 0.250" thick. He thought that that was a safe overbore if it was not supecharged, or turbocharged, but untill someone does it this is all just speculation. Tom
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link Last edited by svxfiles; 02-18-2009 at 05:38 AM. |
#36
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
I was talking to Ron last year. He was planning to bore and stroke one of his engines to 3.7 I think. He likes the idea of a more powerful NA engine.
I'm not sure what dimensions he was going on the bore, or whether he was re-sleeving. My own gut feeling [speculation, for sure ] is that with the cost of work involved in boring out it is not worth the risk to run with thinner standard liners in relation to the cost of replacements. Absolutely not for a blown engine. Others may see it differently. For a road NA engine that was not going to get grief it might be OK I expect. I personally would worry about head gasket integrity and would opt for belt and braces. I'm tight with money. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#37
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
If this in fact the case, I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's plenty safe for an N/A engine then. At 100 mm, we're looking at a 3.1 mm bore increase, or 1.55 mm per wall (.061"). Leaving .100" of sleeve roughly, with a surrounding .250" of aluminum to support it. Heck, I've bored cast iron blocks down to .120" thick walls with no outer supporting walls, and raced them hard. I would still put in sleeves for forced induction or nitrous at that bore diameter.
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#38
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
sorry to bring back an old topic but I was doing some reading I didn't do in feb lol and have some questions.. well one big one.
with all things considered, if forced induction is the end goal would it be advised to bore or not? and if so how much?? |
#39
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
These 7k numbers seem pretty low to me. You'd need to acid wash the block, port the heads, custom cam profiles, complete intake and exhaust, injectors, valve springs, hydra engine management, pistons and rods, crankshaft balanced, you're at 7k right there, at least. Then you can add your super/turbo charger, at another 5k-8k. 400hp is pretty high, last I heard tom wasn't there, and he has over 20k in his engine. Then if i recall correctly, you have to have a 6 speed transmission out of an STI to handle the power, as well as sti axels, add another 8-10k. You can make 400hp all day long, but if you toss your trans or snap an axel every time you hit the gas, it's kind of useless.
Not to try to deter you, but setting aside 7-8k, getting less than half done, is very discouraging. I would take it one step at a time, work it, work it, have end game goals, and do it over time. I'm hoping you have another vehicle to drive before dropping 20k into your SVX. Also, be aware that once you do this, you cannot sell, ever.
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*No SVX at the moment...* 1987 Winnebago Elandan 35' 2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600 2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 6.0litre Power Stroke Diesel - Daily Driver. Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!! |
#40
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
I make 400 crank all day, the supercharger is for sale and the cheapest way you are going to do it... Just sayin, the option has been on the table for over a year and no one bought it...
Tom |
#41
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
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1992 Pearl White LS-L "Ruslana" #4946 - 180k on body, 95k on engine. Mods: ECU bead crush, 15 min mod, 20 min mod, drilled/slotted rotors & Axxis ceramic brakes, SS lines, 17" Evoke F1 wheels, XS-HF137 Sony Xplod speakers, 6000k HID's (lows & fogs), resistor mod, 1½" Sleek Spoiler mod, custom exhaust by svxfiles, '02 WRX aluminum racing radiator by svxfiles, Summit Racing 400# x 300# springs w/ Koni's by svxfiles, ClassGlass fiberglass hood /w scoop, Nevin's rear sway bar, '97 grille, phenolic spacers, custom LED interior lighting, custom paint. †"War doesn't determine who is right, only who is left"† Work to be done: Tinted windows, clear/LED tail lights, tailbar mod, "Power Mode" mod, Supertone horns, clear corners & headlight lenses, 2 pc splitters or custom bumper, Alcyone side skirts, TruSpeed Stage III SVX Intake, Hydra, 4.44 tranny swap, JDM auto folding side mirrors, engine rebuild, super charger, STi seats, bone leather interior /w SVX emblem, dash overhaul, SVX decals, paint (stock color). Total cost?: 22k At least it's going down..
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#42
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
Generally speaking, if you sell a modded car it will bring you no more money than a non-modded car.
Having been in the "car business" since before you were born, I hate to tell people that the Corvette motor that they installed makes their Camaro worth LESS money than if it had a stock motor... Unless you sell it to someone who REALLY likes it. I would, and have paid more for a Hot Rodded car than a stock one, but then again, I'm not normal.
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#43
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
why the hell is it so hard for the EG33 to hit 400HP when an STi engine has been hitting 500 for abuot the same cost? Are the designs in the 2 boxer engines really that different?
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#44
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
one reason... aftermarket support due to the number of engines out there!!!!
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#45
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP
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Because it is not an Sti... I would start there Tom |
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