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#1
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Check Engine Codes
Help! This is frustrating! I've spent good money on sensors, thinking they might be bad... and at the moment the car's STILL throwing codes. Consistently I'm getting P0337 - Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Low Input, followed immediately by P0348 - Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit High Input (Bank 2).
This has been going on since before I stored the car, and despite replacing the cam position sensor (today) and both crank position sensors (one year ago), I'm still throwing these two codes consistently every time I drive the car. Anyone with any pointers, please help me out, here. I really want to get this car completely back on the road and running again... but stuff like this is really throwing me for a loop and driving me round the bend! It's also getting expensive replacing sensors that probably weren't bad to begin with! Anyone??? |
#2
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After you replaced the sensors did you clear the codes? If you fix the issue but don't manually clear the codes, they will still appear. To clear the codes just disconnect the battery for about 5-10min, the reconnect, and it should clear the codes. If they come back after you clear them, that indicates the problem wasn't fixed, or there is another problem that is causing those codes to be thrown. I had a bad camshaft position sensor code on my explorer once, replaced it, and hte code came back. It turns out the cam shaft drive motor was bad, causing the position sensor code to throw.
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*No SVX at the moment...* 1987 Winnebago Elandan 35' 2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600 2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 6.0litre Power Stroke Diesel - Daily Driver. Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!! |
#3
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Yeah, I made sure I did. Actually, I had the battery disconnected anyway to replace the cam position sensor (not a lot of room under there! ) so it was disconnected for a good 45 minutes while I replaced that sensor, then went under the alternator to make sure both crank position sensors were connected properly.
I'm not seeing any other symptoms of the problem. Do you think I should replace the crank sensors again since it's been over a year since I did it originally? |
#4
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it could be a problem with the wiring... did you inspect the wire conections and wires that lead off the cam sensor? look for breaks in the plastic
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- John ASE certified Master Tech W/ X1 Twin City Fleet repair, St. Paul, MN need work done? Have tools will travel
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#5
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I thought there was another way to clear the codes by sticking in both spatula terminals in the connector by the kickpanel. For myself though, it only worked when I disconnected the battery.
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#6
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The wiring actually looks good. If I disconnect the wires, the car doesn't start... so I'm thinking they're OK.
On the off chance they're bad... how easy are they to replace? More to the point, where can I get them? |
#7
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Well, on the off chance I still have bad sensors I've bought a complete set on eBay from a salvaged SVX. Not bad for $67.00. I also bought a lot of other parts... who knows? I might need 'em.
I took a look at the wires again... they're hard, but I don't see any breaks in the wires. Is there a way I can test these with a multimeter? Any pointers? This is rather frustrating. Also, if I need to replace these wires can I get the connectors relatively cheaply? |
#8
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Hmm... I've been doing a lot of reading of threads... I've found references to false check engine codes being thrown by a bad temperature sensor. I've also noted discussions of burning smells, low gas mileage (mine has sucked since shortly before I stored the car, but used to be great)... all symptoms I'm seeing. On a quick peek in the tailpipe with a flashlight, I also see a lot of black soot. I've also found references to stumbling and hard start... both things I've seen in the last few days but attributed to the car having been stored.
It also occurs to me that when idling today at lights using just vent, I don't remember hearing the fans kick in. When the A/C is on, the fans work great... but I don't remember hearing them kick in lately. OK... this is gonna be a cheap test... so I'm going to replace the temp sensor anyway. Any thoughts on whether or not this might work? With 135K on the clock, it probably behooves me to replace it anyway... but just wanted to see if anyone else had any thoughts. |
#9
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Black soot in the exhaust? Kinda sounds like your air/fuel is not mixing properly which would lead me to say Oxygen sensors need to be checked.
Also what octane are you using in the car? SVX usually take at minimum 92 or 93. |
#10
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Quote:
Make sure you change the temp sensor with two wires, and let us know.
__________________
www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#11
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this requires a lab scope but you can sub in a militi meter its the same test for all the cam and crank sensors Remove crank angle sensor 1. Set the positive (+) probe at sensor connector terminal No. 1, and set earth lead at terminal No. 2. Check a wave profile appears crossing a magnet near the pick-up coil of crank angle
__________________
- John ASE certified Master Tech W/ X1 Twin City Fleet repair, St. Paul, MN need work done? Have tools will travel
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#12
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Hey suby fan... thanks for the diagram! I'll see what I can do with a multimeter (should be able to see a "waveform" in the numbers I would hope).
Anyway... I replaced my coolant sensor at lunch (now THAT was easy). Just to make sure we're covered on codes, I've disconnected my SVX and she's now sitting in the parking lot at work until I go home. Just on the off-chance this doesn't work... I was wondering if I need to take a step back here. I'm focused on these codes... what could CAUSE these codes? Is it necessarily a bad sensor... or could it be a timing issue? I had the timing belt replaced by the Subaru dealer about a year before I stored the car... but only a few months before I started having "dying sensors" as I put it at the time. If Subaru dealer had screwed up the timing when they put my car back together, could this cause the problems I'm seeing? The more I think things through, the more I wonder if I do have a timing issue. I've been having all these symptoms that I think point to a problem in my timing;
I realize this might be a stretch... but it seems possible to me. I admit, the car's showing plenty of power and no hesitation on the highway... but particularly when cold I'm noticing there's a slight hesitation on acceleration. Thoughts? |
#13
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Same Symptoms
I had some of the same symptoms after changing the timing belt. When I was tighting the crank shaft bolt one of the cams jumped timing. It did not set a check engine light though. Check your timing marks on the timing belt. Good Luck. Fishtail.
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#14
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Still got to look at the timing... I'll probably do that this weekend.
As for the rest... well, I just wanted to make some observations about my problem. The car appears to be remaining in "warm up" mode, never actually going to "run mode". In other words, she's running rich... like very rich. Everything I can see says the car's reaching running temperature (around 190-200 consistently), the cooling system's working, the coolant sensor is working (replaced yesterday), and generally the car's running OK. Under hard acceleration, she does feel "jumpy"... like the spark is being blown out by too rich a fuel mixture. Checked my air filter and air intake system last night... all looks OK. Oh, and there was a rodents nest under my intake manifold... that was fun to get out of there. I saw it because I was trying to check the grounds. For reference, the grounds look fine. Anyway, the problem's still there and still annoying. I suspect my timing's being retarded because the ECU's not getting the codes it expects from the sensors that are tripping the codes. Could my ECU be fried and just throwing codes randomly? I have suspected my O2 sensors as well... but I'm not getting any codes on those, either. Anyone any thoughts on that? Could my codes be incorrect... i.e. they're being thrown by some other problem? Anyone, any help would be greatly appreciated. These problems are frustrating. |
#15
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Quote:
__________________
www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
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