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#1
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MAJOR problems
I have no idea whats going on, best guess is a faulty voltage regulator, but not sure. and ever if it is the voltage regulator, i do not know how to troubleshoot it.
current problems: 1) all lights on dash periodically light up, headlights get brighter, AC blows harder, windshield wipers go faster, almost like a super power surge, but only when driving (as in, in motion) and usually while accelerating 2) brights no longer work, as well as fog lights 3) both interior spotlights (the two on the ceiling on the outside that point down into the seats) went out at same time, along with both front and back left blinkers and a taillight 4) fusible link continuously burns out, i've resorted to buying male connectors and 10ft of wire and just keep making them to replace 5) brand new, just happened this morning, all gauges went dead, i also can no longer roll down my windows and power to everything inside cut off (stereo, lights, etc) 6) another new one was my coolant was boiling when i got home today about the only things that do work are my low-beam headlights, my windshield wipers and my engine, which doesn't seem to be doing too well with all the electrical problems. PLEASE HELP! Any suggestions are welcome!! |
#2
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Replace the alternator. That may solve several of the problems. The fusible link is there to protect your car's electrical systems, so when it starts burning up you should address the source of the problem, not patch it repeatedly. The boiling coolant may have been caused by the fans not coming on, so you may be able to kill all the problems with one part.
Remanufactured alternators are available. I have an ACDelco Reman unit, it carries a lifetime warranty and teamed with an Optima Red-Top battery my electrical system is pretty solid.
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#3
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The voltage surges are commonly the alternator, but could also be a bad battery. The electrical system uses the battery as a barometer of electrical system health in many cars. If there is a problem in the battery, the car looses its reference point periodically and overchages.
The voltage surges have most likely fried many parts of the electrical system, when you bypassed the fusible link, you just moved the failure point to another part of the car. Check all fuses, check all relays, replace flasher, check the bulbs on the lights that don't work. Make sure your sockets have not melted. Overvoltage to bulbs creates a lot of heat. You likely have your work cut out for you, but you'll learn a lot about your electrical system. And you've already learned that the SVX blows up fusible links for a very good reason. -Patrick
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Patrick 1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby" JDM Power Mode Switch, Integrated GPS/Video Player 6Xk Miles. 1992 Teal - Sold to Mysvxrocks [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#4
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yikesy... I agree that your alternator is likely the culprit and that bypassing the fusible link moved your failure point further along. Let's hope you just have a bunch of blown fuses.
When a diode goes bad in the alternator it starts drawing current through that fusible link and the wire which goes from that fuse box to the battery. You can verify the bad diode by testing for current on that wire with the plug on the alternator plugged in and then with it unplugged. Assuming you find that you have a bad diode in your alternator leave it unplugged to elimate the short until your new alternator shows up.
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Michael Emery, MBA, MS 94 SVX LSI, Ebony Pearl profile 94 SVX LSI, Ebony Pearl from back Performance and Multi-Fuel Tuning |
#5
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In view of your lack of experience with things electrical, I would not advise trying to do any testing. Replace the alternator before attempting run the car again, you have done enough damage already.
Your guess regarding the voltage regulator, which is part and parcel of the alternator, is very likely spot on. Sadly there has been subsequent damage. Continually replacing the fuseable link was a bad, bad, bad. More so if you used heavier gauge, or harder copper wire, As has already been said, let us hope that fuses have blown and protected much of that which is involved. There are indications that you may have been unlucky and damaged the timer module. First check on fuses and light bulbs. Fingers crossed for you.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
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