Swapped EG33 issues

[teamilluminata]

I'm having trouble with a 94 EG33 I swapped into my Legacy Outback race car. http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=12965

I just got this thing in and fired up about a week ago and took it to a fabricator friend of mine for a custom rear exhaust. He'd already made a custom front Y pipe for me and the old rear pipe and Supertrapp were just too crusty and loud. So this was it's first drive beyond the 9 miles between my house and my shop which were taken once at a sedate pace due to the loud exhaust. Apart from the noise the car managed the 1 hour freeway journey nicely and drove onto his hoist without a hitch.

After six hours of welding and bending pipe it fired up with a lovely burble but soon we realized all was not well. We had a rough and low idle. In fact the engine would not idle very well at all and we soon realised we only had five cyclinders firing. A quick trip round the cyclinders pulling injector wires revealed #1 was not firing. Strangly though it came back on line above about 1500rpm so, as it was late, we decided to set the idle about 1800 and I would drive it home. It ran great till about 40 minutes in when the gauges started doing wiered things and the lights went dim. This may be a red herring as I think it is a failing alternator but threw it in incase it might be significant. Anyway I slowed to 60 and everything came back so I continued on at a reduced pace. However, once I got near home the idle was really rough and down to around 1000rpm.

This morning I drove it back to my shop and it was misfiring on #1 again after a blast on the freeway. This then got worse and at the shop and I diagnosed that #2 is now acting up as well but not above about 1500 rpm. Above that the engine runs great. I swapped out the ignitor as I had a spare but that didn't help.

Last night, before I headed home we had good spark and compression in #1 but did not know how to check the injectors properly and it was getting late. I'm not sure how to go about diagnosing this problem and am hoping someone here has solved a similar issue. I should also mention that the engine is currently running with the Idle Air Control Valve disconnected and blocked off as it was causing a fast idle condition even though the valve itself tested good. I think the temperature sensor is sending too strong a signal and making the ECU think the engine is still cold so it won't close the IACV. I have a new temperature sensor on the way.

Anyone have any ideas. I'm really flummoxed?