SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again" - Page 48

SVXRide · #**706** 12-16-2009, 09:18 AM

FYI,

I sent an email to PWR/US this morning asking about either shipping my radiator to them to have the existing outlet replaced with a 45mm piece or having them ship me a 45mm outlet that I can have TIG welded on.

-Bill

shotgunslade · #**707** 12-16-2009, 09:58 AM

Bill:

Have you been having overheating problems. If so, can you describe how they occur, when they occur, whether they are specific to any specific usages factors when you're on the track, and how they manifest themselves.

Dan

SVXRide · #**708** 12-16-2009, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shotgunslade

Bill:

Have you been having overheating problems. If so, can you describe how they occur, when they occur, whether they are specific to any specific usages factors when you're on the track, and how they manifest themselves.

Dan

Dan,
Only when I autoX (45-75 seconds of high rpm driving). Manifests at end of run when I'm back in the paddock area and the coolant recovery line is spewing all over the driver's side wheel well.
-Bill

shotgunslade · #**709** 12-16-2009, 12:46 PM

So, that is worse than mine, because mine usually didn't start vomiting Prestone until it had been running around the track 15 minutes or so.

SVXRide · #**710** 12-16-2009, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shotgunslade

So, that is worse than mine, because mine usually didn't start vomiting Prestone until it had been running around the track 15 minutes or so.

Dan,
I should have added that it usually isn't the first run of the event when it happens. More like the third

I'm guessing you get more airflow and the on-off the gas is more gradual.
-Bill

Crazy_pilot · #**711** 12-16-2009, 02:53 PM

Just a thought about modding the outlets on the PWR rad. My upper hose is already basically sitting on the fan housing and the top of the inlet is flush with the top of the rad. To run a larger inlet you would need to cut into the fan housing. How much room is there to the fan blades below that?

SVXRide · #**712** 12-16-2009, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crazy_pilot

Just a thought about modding the outlets on the PWR rad. My upper hose is already basically sitting on the fan housing and the top of the inlet is flush with the top of the rad. To run a larger inlet you would need to cut into the fan housing. How much room is there to the fan blades below that?

Chris,
My impression to date is that it's the radiator outlet and thermostat cover that need to be "upgraded". I don't believe it's essential to change the radiator inlet. Tony should pipe in here to set things straight.

-Bill

shotgunslade · #**713** 12-16-2009, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Dan,
I should have added that it usually isn't the first run of the event when it happens. More like the third
I'm guessing you get more airflow and the on-off the gas is more gradual.
-Bill

Bill:

How long is it between your runs, and do you turn it off between runs? I would often slowly drive around the infield roads, maybe even off the track property, 3rd or 4th gear, low rpm, 25-30 mph, until the temperature gauge stopping spiking, then bring it back to the paddock and shut it down.

Dessertrunner · #**714** 12-16-2009, 04:12 PM

Guys the top inlet pipe on the radiator is okay as it stands so don't bother changing it. Its the bottom that is the issue so change the pump cover and the outlet pipe on the radiator to centre of radiator and both 45mm.
As regards other types of coolent I agree they they may improve a bad problem but they won't make it go away. If the visciety of the liquid is thinker then existing coolent the problem will be worse. A vacum is a vacum and different type of liquids won't change that other then a change in the liquid thickness.
The oil type coolent that was in my race car when I brought it didn't stop it boiling for the last owner.
Tony

Trevor · #**715** 12-16-2009, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Guys the top inlet pipe on the radiator is okay as it stands so don't bother changing it. Its the bottom that is the issue so change the pump cover and the outlet pipe on the radiator to centre of radiator and both 45mm.
As regards other types of coolent I agree they they may improve a bad problem but they won't make it go away. If the visciety of the liquid is thinker then existing coolent the problem will be worse. A vacum is a vacum and different type of liquids won't change that other then a change in the liquid thickness.
The oil type coolent that was in my race car when I brought it didn't stop it boiling for the last owner.
Tony

Kia ora Tony,

Sound advice and good progress.

I note that you have now correctly dismissed the theory previously championed by Harvey, but argued against by me, concerning the inlet and cross pipe. It is unfortunate that in this regard, much time and effort was uselessly expended.

Removal of the thermostat, increasing the size of the pump cover and or the inlet pipe, appear to be the deciding factors. There is no real evidence that central location of the radiator outlet pipe is of value. Scientific analysis, similar to that applying to the cross pipe, would suggest otherwise. This could be an inconvenient modification on several counts.

As I understand it, tests in relation to an actual SVX installation have yet to be completed. Surely in case of further developments, it would be wise for those involved to delay committing resources meantime.

Dessertrunner · #**716** 12-16-2009, 06:19 PM

It a issue of "Bang for our buck" I may race car I will change the top pipe as it will help flow but if it doesn't happen its not that big an issue.
In terms of the changes in a SVX the only factor I see as possiable limiting is that the radiator fin count could be two high if the cars are racing at slow speed. We have to get some return coolent temp numbers after mods to get our head around that. Steve's radiator is multi pass so its a lot more powerfull for a given size.
I hope to install my PWR soon and it has 14fpi so measure airflow and return temp etc.
Tony

SVXRide · #**717** 12-17-2009, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shotgunslade

Bill:

How long is it between your runs, and do you turn it off between runs? I would often slowly drive around the infield roads, maybe even off the track property, 3rd or 4th gear, low rpm, 25-30 mph, until the temperature gauge stopping spiking, then bring it back to the paddock and shut it down.

Dan,
SCCA autoX doesn't give you that option. End of run and drive back to paddock and shut down.
-Bill

SVXRide · #**718** 12-17-2009, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

It a issue of "Bang for our buck" I may race car I will change the top pipe as it will help flow but if it doesn't happen its not that big an issue.
In terms of the changes in a SVX the only factor I see as possiable limiting is that the radiator fin count could be two high if the cars are racing at slow speed. We have to get some return coolent temp numbers after mods to get our head around that. Steve's radiator is multi pass so its a lot more powerfull for a given size.
I hope to install my PWR soon and it has 14fpi so measure airflow and return temp etc.
Tony

Tony,
Definitely looking forward to hearing how your SVX runs! Just so I'm straight on its configuration, is the following correct:

1. PWR radiator (specific to the SVX, believe it's PWR part # is 5229) with 45mm outlet (modified) and 33 mm inlet (stock),
2. Stock radiator cap,
3. Stock water pump
4. Modified thermostat cover - 45mm inlet (vs stock 33mm),
5. Modified cross over pipe (top of stock pipe removed and new aluminum added to increase cross section),
6. Stock rad fans,
7. Stock thermostat

Thanks again for all your efforts on this!!
-Bill

Dessertrunner · #**719** 12-17-2009, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Tony,
Definitely looking forward to hearing how your SVX runs! Just so I'm straight on its configuration, is the following correct:

1. PWR radiator (specific to the SVX, believe it's PWR part # is 5229) with 45mm outlet (modified) and 33 mm inlet (stock),
2. Stock radiator cap,
3. Stock water pump
4. Modified thermostat cover - 45mm inlet (vs stock 33mm),
5. Modified cross over pipe (top of stock pipe removed and new aluminum added to increase cross section),
6. Stock rad fans,
7. Stock thermostat

Thanks again for all your efforts on this!!
-Bill

Yes you are correct with the exception of the thermostate, if you are racing the car you need to take it out. Still trying to see how much trouble it cause in a road car.
Tony

SVXRide · #**720** 12-17-2009, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Yes you are correct with the exception of the thermostate, if you are racing the car you need to take it out. Still trying to see how much trouble it cause in a road car.
Tony

Tony,
Thanks for the confirmation! Looking forward to the road testing data!!

-Bill (fingers crossed that Tony runs cool!!)