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#16
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I did it!
I elected to use a breaker bar and a long, heavy duty, floor jack handle slipped over the breaker bar with a great place to rest it. Worked like a champ.
Got the thing apart and timing belt covers removed, lined up the crank sprocket and the belt has slipped! I am encouraged finding it out of time. That is great new... Not out of the woods till I change the cam shaft... and get a new timing belt installed... put back together and it works! I Don't count my chickens till they hatch. Thanks again for all the help everyone! You are all priceless, Keith Last edited by kwren; 05-07-2008 at 04:32 PM. Reason: just did an edit to brag! no words speled rong. LOL |
#17
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:banan a:
good for you
__________________
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin blk 92' LSL w/ average mods pics here http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/ Cash68: "Hmm, I wouldn't brag about beating Escorts. That's like saying you tricked a retarded person." |
#18
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Glad you got it loose
One trick that I've used over the years on many car is this...take an old belt (doesn't even have to fit for the car) and wrap it around the pulley once. Take a small, alligator-mouthed vise grip and clamp it so the belt is tight around the pulley. Take the slack from the belt and put it around whatever other pulley seems to be a good distance. As you start turning, the belt will grab and hold the pulley in place. This is good for any engine, not requiring it to be able to turn over or needing rotation in a specific direction. |
#19
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We have a tool that fits into the four holes on the crank pulley that you put a breaker bar on, and you hold the pulley with that tool, and loosen the bolt with another breaker bar and socket.
What dealership did you take it to? I know it wouldn't have taken that long at my dealership!
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1992 SVX LS-L #1222 Pearl White 1987 GL Turbo wagon, 5 lug conversion, D/R 5 speed (Rice killer) 1992 Dodge Ram 4x4 diesel (car hauler) 1968 Dodge Polara convertible (Camaro killer) 1990 Toyota Corolla FWD auto (330,000 mile grocery getter) 1986 VW Jetta |
#20
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p.m for you
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#21
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Right
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Lee
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SVXx2 92 SVX LS-L Silver 92 SVX LS-L Burgundy (structurally challenged with 2792 miles) 96 SVX LSi Red 92 SVX LS Pearl (Parts) 01 F150 4X4 Red (+6 with other members of the family) FREEDOM IS NOT FREE |
#22
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Re: Getting the big old bolt loose...
That tool wouldn't work for me, I have an Unorthodox Racing billet aluminum under drive pulley, I think I'll try the old belt wrapped around the pulley method.
When I last put the crank bolt in I used thread lock cause the word at the time was "you don't want that bolt to come out". Do I have to use heat to break the thread lock? I think it takes 300 degrees. The good news: the bolt has stayed in place for 7 years. Anyone over come removing a bolt that has been thread locked?
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LS-L 92 black top silver bullet-Turned into a 2005 Jeep TJ Unlimited 2012 Outback 3.6R Limited! |
#23
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Re: Getting the big old bolt loose...
Bump!!!!!!!!!!!
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LS-L 92 black top silver bullet-Turned into a 2005 Jeep TJ Unlimited 2012 Outback 3.6R Limited! |
#24
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Re: Getting the big old bolt loose...
I use more Red Thread Locker than the Military!
And I use a breaker bar with the TQ locked with a flat pry bar. Then again my diet is red meat
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#25
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Re: Getting the big old bolt loose...
I have used the starter method on literally hundreds of crank pulleys, not near as scary as it sounds. The subaru special tool works good to.
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#26
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Re: Getting the big old bolt loose...
Quote:
Hint: Let the jack handle rest on some kind of protector and rest it on the side with the battery on it. The last part of the preceding sentence is vital!! This really is the only way to fly and turn off the key the instant it breaks the nut loose. Keith Last edited by kwren; 07-13-2008 at 11:13 AM. |
#27
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Re: Getting the big old bolt loose...
Quote:
The mention of the jack handle made me think of this: what about putting a piece of 2X4 on the floor jack, put the jack under the crank pulley, jack up till pulley is not going to move? Any chance of damage to bearings, etc,?
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LS-L 92 black top silver bullet-Turned into a 2005 Jeep TJ Unlimited 2012 Outback 3.6R Limited! |
#28
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Re: Getting the big old bolt loose...
Quote:
The long floor jack needs to be slid down over the handle of the breaker bar and rested on the car by the battery. your thread lock is a baby and probably had no value for the 7 years. If the bolt is put on right and tightened well it will never come lose by itself. I think some dealers don't tighten it right to screw the customer... it is like money in the bank for them... when the pulley comes loose they can screw you again. Don't think your starter will ever realize your thread lock was in the equation! Brace up and bite the bullet! Just close your eyes and hit start!!! Keith |
#29
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Re: Getting the big old bolt loose...
We will all be standing by awaiting the positive report of this endeavor!!!!!
Keith |
#30
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Re: Getting the big old bolt loose...
Quote:
Thats bigger than the wheel studs at 12mm X 1.25 The torque specs for the crankshaft bolt are 108-123 ft/lbs. Most 1/2" drive torque wrenches are about 16" long from the center of the drive to where the outer end of the handle is. If the average mechanics hand is 4" wide, you would figure the center of pull at 14"s. To keep the math simple, lets use 15" as the pull point. So to pull 120 ft/lb of torque you only have to pull 105#s. Lets say the mechanic is distracted after finding out his cheating wife just spent $3000.00 on lingerie that hes never seen. Without thinking he pulls 210#s of torque. The crankshaft bolt is now streached and improperly torqued to double what it should be, 240ft/lbs. The bolt does not break, but he dented the fender that he was leaning on. OK, OK, I kid. If he pulled more than 150 ft/lbs he SHOULD know it. ESPECIALLY with a torque wrench! So my best guess is that it might be torqued to 150-160 ft/lbs. At which point red thread locker is not even an issue. SO, if you use a torque wrench set to 150-160 ft/lb you should feel safe in removing it while holding the torque converter still with the afore mentioned pry bar.
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link Last edited by svxfiles; 07-13-2008 at 01:53 PM. Reason: Blew milk out my nose after reading my post, and had to clean the screen. |
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