Wheels that fit the SVX

[SilverSpear]

Originally Posted by svxistentialist

Do you mean on the wheels Danny?

I don't mean to sound like a cracked record, but I've already noted that I shy away from wheels that have double fitment because they look aftermarket.

That said, these wheels shown on the Impreza look very impressive. I like them. It looks like from the factory they filled up the second set of holes. They are very attractive rims.

Joe

Concerning the dual holes, you are completely right Joe. For the Volk RE30 rims that I previously showed interest for, I had in mind filling their counter holes with bits attached to a very thin spacer bracket... but the wheels' cost is illogical to me ($2000 used, $3500 new ).

These Enkei's are 2 lbs heavier than the Volks and cost 1/3 less. I can live with +2lbs heavier than the Volks and -1lb lighter than our OEM 16" . I can also live with the design of the holes, it has only 5 holes and not 10 but they are designed to be drilled according to your specs. I think they are custom ordered at a cheaper price than the competition.

I love their design, I think I am going that route. The offset is still something I need to think about , you know what I am mean

[Pegdrgr]

Rota G Force 17" wheels

Before


After

[zagato]

I would like to mount 17inch wheels of the 993 Turbo, but can someone Photoshop them to look how the would look like on a black SVX.

The 993 Turbo design looks a lot like the original SVX. However they are 18 inch. Aftermarket manufacturers supplied 7,5J x 17 inch in the exact same design. Together with special spacers that go from 5 x 114,3 to 5 x 130 they would fit......

Can someone help with Photoshop????

[newsvx]

It has been some time since I checked out this thread on rims. Just read through all the posts.... and I noticed there has been no mention of a couple of things re changing rims:

1. wheel centric rings - to keep the rim perfectly centered on the hub. Most aftermarket rims require them (the hole for the hub is larger than stock rims), and if one does not "center" the rim on the hub, the wheel/tire will likely be out of balance.
2. risk of bending a rim on a pothole. Most aftermarket rims are not as strong as stock (Subaru or other make) rims. Bend a rim, and again a problem with rim/tire balance on the car.

Any thoughts on this from any of you? I have had two sets of aftermarket rims and have had balance issues with both.

Harry

[tiv0]

Originally Posted by newsvx

1. wheel centric rings - to keep the rim perfectly centered on the hub. Most aftermarket rims require them (the hole for the hub is larger than stock rims), and if one does not "center" the rim on the hub, the wheel/tire will likely be out of balance.
2. risk of bending a rim on a pothole. Most aftermarket rims are not as strong as stock (Subaru or other make) rims. Bend a rim, and again a problem with rim/tire balance on the car.

Any thoughts on this from any of you? I have had two sets of aftermarket rims and have had balance issues with both.

Harry

Bent one of my mustang gt rims on a pothole
not exactly an "aftermarket wheel" as it was the stock rim for the '05 gt.
I also never used any hubcentric rings; just never got around to it, im beating myself up for it now.

....regretting it all now, as I'm stuck with the stock wheels again.

[BoxerFanatic]

Originally Posted by tiv0

Bent one of my mustang gt rims on a pothole
not exactly an "aftermarket wheel" as it was the stock rim for the '05 gt.
I also never used any hubcentric rings; just never got around to it, im beating myself up for it now.

....regretting it all now, as I'm stuck with the stock wheels again.

I'm glad you have all four of them, then.

Mustang wheels are cheap due to being plentiful, though... another shouldn't be too hard to find. Even cheap replica mustang wheels are around.

The upcoming '11 Mustang V6 has some nice thin-spoke wheels, if you don't mind chrome. Chrome on Silver doesn't look too bad at all... I can't remember if they are 17 or 18, though.

I hate potholes, too. The miata has had a smashed wheel on a chunk of ice-covered asphalt, and I am always leary of potholes, as well.

I have been thinking about some Konig Swurve wheels for mine, especially after Porsche did a similar wheel design for their 918 Spyder concept car. But that is a long way down the road.

[lhopp77]

Originally Posted by BoxerFanatic

Mustang wheels are cheap due to being plentiful, though... another shouldn't be too hard to find. Even cheap replica mustang wheels are around.

Would be willing to bet that they can be found on Ebay in singles or sets for reasonable prices.

Lee

[Crazy_pilot]

Originally Posted by newsvx

Any thoughts on this from any of you? I have had two sets of aftermarket rims and have had balance issues with both.

Harry

What sort of rims? In my experience heavy cars and the cheaper rims do not mix well. The shop I used to work for sells Fast rims, which are the usual economy type deal. On a Civic or Corolla they work fine. However, we put a set on an Audi wagon and another on a Pontiac G8. Both had balance issues that we weren't able to solve until they went to a different, higher quality wheel.

As for strength, again it's a matter of the wheel manufacturer's quality. Cast wheels can't take abuse. A pothole will easily pound a flat spot into the wheel lip. The high end, $800+ each forged wheels are a different matter. For example:

-An S2000 spun out on the auto-x course and slid side-on into a concrete lamp post, hitting the back of the left front wheel. He was running Volk rims. The rim lip was badly scratched and had some material removed (Looked like really bad curb rash), but wasn't deformed. He shattered both control arms and the post crushed his brand new fender. Other than cosmetic damage, the rim was fine.

-My friend has a 240SX with Works VS-XX rims. He slid it into a curb this fall. The control arm was bent into an S shape, the tension rod was snapped in half, and the tie rod was bent 90*. The rim lip has minor deformation and bad curb rash, which we mostly fixed with a 2x4 and 10 lb sledge.

I've also hit potholes with my BBS rims that I know would damage a cheap wheel. Mine are still perfectly round.

[tiv0]

Originally Posted by BoxerFanatic

I'm glad you have all four of them, then.

Yes, thanks again for that

Mustang wheels are cheap due to being plentiful, though... another shouldn't be too hard to find. Even cheap replica mustang wheels are around.

I figure I'll take a look around a few junkyards to see if I have any luck, otherwise I'm sure it won't be too hard to find a single rim elsewhere.

I hate potholes, too. The miata has had a smashed wheel on a chunk of ice-covered asphalt, and I am always leary of potholes, as well.

I can imagine it would be pretty painful to hit a pothole in a miata...

[newsvx]

Originally Posted by Crazy_pilot

What sort of rims? In my experience heavy cars and the cheaper rims do not mix well.

The wheels were Fitapaulde (sic) and Racing. The first, a VERY good and expansive wheel. The second, probably a cheap one.

I certainly hear (and support) what you are saying Chris. One gets what one pays for!! The really good (and expensive) wheels are usually as good if not better than the OEM rims. Not so for the cheap ones. I just wanted to throw those issues out there for people to consider - especially the hub centric rings, which are a MUST in my opinion for aftermarket rims) when thinking about going with a different whell than stock ....

Harry

[BoxerFanatic]

Originally Posted by newsvx

The wheels were Fitapaulde (sic) and Racing. The first, a VERY good and expansive wheel. The second, probably a cheap one.

I certainly hear (and support) what you are saying Chris. One gets what one pays for!! The really good (and expensive) wheels are usually as good if not better than the OEM rims. Not so for the cheap ones. I just wanted to throw those issues out there for people to consider - especially the hub centric rings, which are a MUST in my opinion for aftermarket rims) when thinking about going with a different whell than stock ....

Harry

I believe the brand was called/spelled 'Fittipaldi'. I haven't seen that brand in many years.

[BoxerFanatic]

Here's a question for some folks... Will these fit, using SVX OE lugs?

mitsubishi Evo X MR has some nice looking stock wheels. BBS even.



Size: 18x8.5
Offset: +38
Bolt Pattern: 5 x 114.3
Center Bore: 67.1
Hardware:12x1.50 Lug

now the kicker is the lugs. Mitsubishi uses a different thread pitch, but possibly the same shank-style lugs as the SVX. The SVX lugs are obviously the correct thread pitch for the SVX studs. (12x1.25)
These are the Mitsu OE Lugs. Again not the same thread pitch.


The bolt pattern is the same, and the other dimensions should also work. Offset for an 8.5 inch wide wheel should be reasonable for SVX...

The width and size would look fantastic on an SVX.

Either that, or having a machine shop cut a 60-degree bevel, and convert the wheels to conical lug seats, and use conical lugs.

EDIT***

This just in... It appears that some infiniti wheels, but not all, use shank style lugs, like the SVX OE Wheels do, and the EVO wheels do. Nissan, I believe, is the other company to widely use 12x1.25 thread pitch studs and lug nuts... so theoretically, if the dimensions are the same... the Infiniti shank lug nuts may work on SVX studs, with shank-style wheels.

This particular fitment is for the second generation Infiniti G-series sedan, which apparently uses shank-style wheel lug seats, and in fact do use 12x1.25 thread pitch, just like Subaru.

And also, evidently, from this vendor, the lugs are only $1.75 a piece. Subaru charges 17+$ a piece for rare SVX OE Lugs... Buyer beware, caveat emptor, and such... no connection with this vendor.
http://www.calwheelaccessories.com/f...e-mag-lug-nuts



I think I have another spare OE SVX Lug... The hex crown of the lug is taller than the infiniti one shown, but otherwise I can verify the outer dimensions, whether they are the same or different than the infiniti-spec version.

After replacing an SVX wheel stud and lug nut, I don't think the taller crown is utilized for the stud, just to make the lug wrench reach into the SVX OE wheels a bit less to drive the lug nut hex head and for appearance with the SVX's flush center cap, which is likely not a deal breaker to use the shorter ones.

[newsvx]

Originally Posted by BoxerFanatic

I believe the brand was called/spelled 'Fittipaldi'. I haven't seen that brand in many years.

You are correct - I could not spell Fittipaldi's name and too lazy to look it up .....
BTW, had the "RACING" rims checked yesterday and they are true ...... They are up for sale since I have decided to go back to stock wheels ....

[Lookin4SVX]

I too am looking for some rims.
The 16" rims I got with the car have no clearance for the calipers. I cant even get a piece of paper between the caliper and the rim.
I am not comfortable with this, so I want to go up to a 17" rim.

Far as I understand from reading here, the stock rims are:
16"x7.5" with a +55 offset and 56.1 centerbore.
I see that 17"x7.5" need to have an offset of +50.

So after reading this thread, I am wondering, are you saying that if I went with a 17"x8" I could use a 40 offset?
Since the rims are 13mm wider, can just subtract that from the +50 offset requirement?

I see people running the 05 STi BBS rims.
Can we use after market rims meant for the 05 STi?

For example, I am looking at these rims:



It comes in these sizes which seem close to the SVX specs:

17"x 7.5" / 5 x 114.3mm / +48offset
From what I have read, these will not work because the offset is not +50 so they will rub. (2mm makes that much difference?)

17"x 8" / 5 x 114.3mm / +35offset
Isn't this the exact same as having a 7.5" with a 48mm offset, or am I backwards? (.5in x 25.4 = 12.7mm + 35mm = 47.7mm)

17"x8" / 5 x 114.3mm / +48offset
Would this be too much positive offset?

Will any of these fit the SVX??

[BoxerFanatic]

Originally Posted by Lookin4SVX

I too am looking for some rims.
The 16" rims I got with the car have no clearance for the calipers. I cant even get a piece of paper between the caliper and the rim.
I am not comfortable with this, so I want to go up to a 17" rim.

Far as I understand from reading here, the stock rims are:
16"x7.5" with a +55 offset and 56.1 centerbore.
I see that 17"x7.5" need to have an offset of +50.

So after reading this thread, I am wondering, are you saying that if I went with a 17"x8" I could use a 40 offset?
Since the rims are 13mm wider, can just subtract that from the +50 offset requirement?

I see people running the 05 STi BBS rims.
Can we use after market rims meant for the 05 STi?

It comes in these sizes which seem close to the SVX specs:

17"x 7.5" / 5 x 114.3mm / +48offset
From what I have read, these will not work because the offset is not +50 so they will rub. (2mm makes that much difference?)

17"x 8" / 5 x 114.3mm / +35offset
Isn't this the exact same as having a 7.5" with a 48mm offset, or am I backwards? (.5in x 25.4 = 12.7mm + 35mm = 47.7mm)

17"x8" / 5 x 114.3mm / +48offset
Would this be too much positive offset?

Will any of these fit the SVX??

+35 offset will probably not work so well. +48 offset is probably not bad.

The stock wheels tuck under a fair amount. Less positive offset, adjusted for wheel width, will move the outboard rim of the wheel closer to the fender edge, and make the wheels fit more flush. Up to a certain point, that actually looks better, until it starts to rub.

The numbers you talk about are keeping the wheel centerline very close to stock. There is a bit of lee-way to shift the wheel centerline outboard a bit, in relation to the hub-face. That is what lower offset does.

But keep in mind an inch is 25.4mm. +55 down to +48 is only 7mm. About a third of an inch. not much.

A 7.5 inch wide wheel, same as stock, will react directly with offset changes, regardless of wheel rim diameter which only affects tire fitment, not wheel location geometry.

An 8 inch wide wheel adds a quarter of an inch of width on both sides of the wheel centerline roughly 6.3 millimeters on both inboard and outboard sides. Wheel offset is always measured from the centerline.

An 8 inch wheel is 203.2mm, half of which is ~101.7mm, from the centerline to the outboard rim. (actually the bead seat extends a bit further, but we can use idealized numbers to get the point.)

+55mm is measured out from the centerline of the wheel width toward the outer rim, along the axle line. Negative offset numbers would be measured toward the inboard rim, instead. Zero offset would place the hub face right on the centerline of the wheel's width.

Decreasing to +48 would shift the whole wheel's width 7 millimeters outboard, by bringing the hub face that much closer to the centerline. That equates to .275 inches, a hair over a quarter inch. Not very far.

The 7.5 inch wheel would not add any width, so the offset change stands alone. The 8 inch wheel adds the half of the width increase, and the offset shift together, (6.3+7 = 13.3mm, .523 inches... roughly a half an inch closer to the fender edge.

You can extrapolate how the offset change and width change cancel each other out on the inboard side of the wheel. Drastic wheel width or offset changes also can impact how wheels fit with the suspension clearance and inner fender well when steering or suspension compression... but a quarter inch here or there probably won't matter much, and SVXs have relatively big wheel wells, compared to their OE wheel size.

The wider the wheel gets, the more sensitive the fitment will be to changes in offset, because of that addition factor... unless you increase the positive offset more than stock, and shift both the inner and outer wheel rim edges inboard. which is not really likely on a Subaru, since not many wheels have more than +55mm offset measurements.

Enough math lesson for today... to summarize, most high offset wheels with the correct bolt pattern and a hub center that will fit over the hub's center ring will likely fit.

Earlier in this thread, or in other threads in the wheel sub-forum, there is likely a list of minimum positive offsets for SVX wheel fitment, dependent on the wheel's width.

From my slightly fuzzy recollection, I believe between 7 and 8 inches of width, minimum positive offset is probably around 40mm... so anything greater than +40, if everything else is right, should theoretically fit.

But you'll probably want to look around this part of the forum, to verify that information and find the authoritative list, not just what I think I remember.