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#166
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Re: Performance transmission build
The forward clutch drum is the first thing that goes in. For some reason I evidently didn't feel like taking a picture of that.
The next thing that goes in is the overrun clutch hub. You use Vaseline to stick the bearing to its bottom side and Vaseline to stick the plastic spacer to it's top side. Yes, petroleum jelly is the correct goo. It's pretty much impossible to build a transmission correctly without it. Almost every part in the stack has a bearing or a spacer stuck to its underside and you need something to make them stick so they stay where they belong while you are installing the part. Petroleum jelly mixed with atf is also great assembly lube. Here's the forward clutch hub and a one way clutch. It needs to be taken apart. Just because it came out in one piece doesn't mean everything stayed where it belongs. In fact the spacer between the two is out of place. The tongs that stop it from spinning are not in the holes where they should be. I take it apart, lube up the one way clutch (the part that looks like roller bearings but isn't), install the forward clutch hub, stick the spacer to the rear ring gear, and install the ring gear. Next I install the rear planetary and sun gear: |
#167
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Re: Performance transmission build
Stick the bearing to the front planetary, install it, and stick the next bearing to it.
Stick the bearing to the sun gear, lube it, and install it. Install the high clutch hub and and the next bearing and then the high clutch. There's a selective thickness washer on the high clutch. If I had changed anything I would have to break out my precision depth micrometer set and some specialized tools to take a bunch of very accurate measurements to select the correct thickness washer to put here which adjusts the end play of the whole stack. There are also selective shims for the pinion and reverse clutch drum. I have all of these things but I don't need to change them in this instance. Next, the reverse clutch goes in and then the brake band. At this point you need to tighten the band up enough that it doesn't fall apart but leave it loose enough that it doesn't make it difficult to install the pump. |
#168
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Re: Performance transmission build
We're ready to install the pump now so it's time to install the pump gasket to the case. There are two nuts that hold the pump to the case. After I torque them I torque the pan bolts. When I installed the pan earlier I installed the bolts with a screw driver so they were loose enough to let it be nudged by the pump if necessary.
Now it's time to install the differential. I always use a new seal pipe. This is what keeps your atf and gear oil separate. You need your mating surfaces chemically clean so you get a good bond. Prep solve is the best solvent to use but others would work acceptably too. Ultra-grey is really the only acceptable sealant to use. You don't want to forget the rubber bushing for the fluid pass through and you should lube the ends of the seal pipe with petroleum jelly. One of the bolts attaching the differential to the transmission also holds the fill tube. It's best to install the fill tube now. You want to put all the differential bolts in finger tight, then torque the little bolt at the bottom of the fill tube down, then torque the differential bolts. |
#169
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Re: Performance transmission build
Now's a good time to change the crush washer on the pan. You always want to use a new crush washer.
The transmission is pretty heavy now and it's time to lay it down before it falls over and hurts somebody then we can install the driven gear, parking lock, drive gear, transfer clutch, and extension housing. Speaking of new crush washers it's time to install the cooler pipes. You need new crush washers for these too. And look at that: we're done. |
#170
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Re: Performance transmission build
I'll probably get a chance to crate this transmission Thursday.
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#171
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Re: Performance transmission build
I got a chance to finish the crate. I'm going to post this transmission for sale on ebay now. It's ready to ship and available now for $3500 plus freight. The crate is 36x21x25 and should be about 300 lbs.
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#172
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Re: Performance transmission build
This transmission is listed on Ebay here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231557187323
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#173
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Re: Performance transmission build
Relisted: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231564260136
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#174
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Re: Performance transmission build
The transmission from this thread sold to a good home. Subiechips is not going to be selling the performance transmissions like ECUtune did; however I do have the parts here to build another transmission in addition to the one I am building for myself. If someone needing a good transmission comes across this thread while I still have said parts I'll be willing to build a transmission and ship to Potomac Valley Performance for installation.
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#175
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Re: Performance transmission build
Someone took me up on my offer to build one more performance 4eat. I'm starting the rebuild now and have found the front differential needs to be redone. I've started a new thread to give a how to on setting up front differentials.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...193#post742193 |
#176
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Re: Performance transmission build
Just read through this whole thread - amazing. However, it's 2020 now - does anyone know if these rebuilt transmissions can still be ordered? If not, are there similar alternatives?
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- Lenny Current car: 2006 Saab 9-2x Aero, Midnight Black Mica, 180k miles, 5MT, mostly stock Past car: 1995 Subaru Impreza wagon, EJ20G w/5MT, Koni Yellow inserts/STi wagon (GF) springs, swaybars, and other suspension goodies, STi seats Future car: SVX, of course! Last edited by ZoraSVX; 08-06-2020 at 04:49 PM. |
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