transmission cooling questions

[steveherman]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

If you use the proper sized aftermarket cooler, sandwiched between the factory radiator, and the factory AC condenser it works fine, without placing a restriction on the transmission pressures,LIKE THE FACTORY COOLER DOES!

We live just outside Cumberland Maryland and see below 0°f during our winters.
We drive SVXi every day.
With the proper sized cooler it is not a problem, but a way to help our transmissions.

What would the "proper size" be in florida?
Do I completely eliminate all fluid routing to the radiator and use ONLY the aftermarket cooler?
I dont want to overcool and I have the ecutune tcu from LAN so the temperature that the light comes on is lower than stock.
Any recommendations?
I want to stay away from putting an inline thermostat if that makes any difference.
Appreciate the suggestions.

[92 SVX]

Originally Posted by steveherman

What would the "proper size" be in florida?
Do I completely eliminate all fluid routing to the radiator and use ONLY the aftermarket cooler?
I dont want to overcool and I have the ecutune tcu from LAN so the temperature that the light comes on is lower than stock.
Any recommendations?
I want to stay away from putting an inline thermostat if that makes any difference.
Appreciate the suggestions.

In florida just run transmission lines in to the external trans cooler do not run them into the radiator.

It does not get cool enough where you live to need the heating from the rad to get transmission up to operation temps.
As to size That I could not tell you, mine uses what I think of as typical sized its about a foot square I think. And maybe 2" wide.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by steveherman

What would the "proper size" be in florida?
Do I completely eliminate all fluid routing to the radiator and use ONLY the aftermarket cooler?
I dont want to overcool and I have the ecutune tcu from LAN so the temperature that the light comes on is lower than stock.
Any recommendations?
I want to stay away from putting an inline thermostat if that makes any difference.
Appreciate the suggestions.

I have an Hayden/Imperial transmission on all of my SVXi, both my sons, and Green-Eyed-Lady's.
The biggest one is on my supercharged Claret. It's 10 X 12 X 3/4", and its actually too big SINCE I installed LAN's valve body!
(LAN's valve body flows more oil so the transmission is cooler to begin with!)
A 7.5" X 12 X3/4" cooler from Hayden/Imperial would be more than enough for Florida!
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE if you have the Subaru factory campaign filter, take it off!
I just replaced an 80,250 mile SVX transmission and the campaign was so clogged I count blow through it!

In Florida you do not REALLY need the cooler/warmer IMHO, and it is VERY VERY restrictiive to flow.
I hope this helps.
BTW, that same 7.5 X 12 X 3/4 cooler would be too big for a Winter driven SVX in the Northern states in the Contintal United States!

[fasteract7]

I just replaced an 80,250 mile SVX transmission and the campaign was so clogged I count blow through it


First time I've heard you mention this problem or heard of it at all....have you seen other factory campaign filters with the same clogging problem or could the tranny in your case been the source of debris and the filter was just doing its job ? Sure would like to think my trans filter isn't in need of removal...

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by fasteract7

I just replaced an 80,250 mile SVX transmission and the campaign was so clogged I count blow through it


First time I've heard you mention this problem or heard of it at all....have you seen other factory campaign filters with the same clogging problem or could the tranny in your case been the source of debris and the filter was just doing its job ? Sure would like to think my trans filter isn't in need of removal...

I beleive that ALL campaign filters should be removed!
I have never seen one this clogged, but they all pose a restriction to flow, as does the stock in radiator cooler.
The Hayden/Imperial coolers do not restrict flow, they just dissapate heat.
Tom

[92snowmachine]

it really depends on how you drive. i have a roughly 12"x10" cooler in the fender well and will still see the hot light when flogging the trans up the mountain. trans was rebuilt/updated a couple years a go and i do have lan's tcu.

filters are only a good idea if changed or checked frequently. i have replaced a lot of components because of add on filters. once they clog they stop fluid flow. whoever invented the aftermarket power steering filter must own stock in pump manufacturers.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by 92snowmachine

it really depends on how you drive. i have a roughly 12"x10" cooler in the fender well and will still see the hot light when flogging the trans up the mountain. trans was rebuilt/updated a couple years a go and i do have lan's tcu.

filters are only a good idea if changed or checked frequently. i have replaced a lot of components because of add on filters. once they clog they stop fluid flow. whoever invented the aftermarket power steering filter must own stock in pump manufacturers.

That will go away with his valve body!
I don't drive The Claret in 40°f weather because the lock up torque converter will not stay locked up since I installed his valve body.
Tom

[92snowmachine]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

That will go away with his valve body!
I don't drive The Claret in 40°f weather because the lock up torque converter will not stay locked up since I installed his valve body.
Tom

i have been considering a second svx for summer driving. i drove the svx to the mountains when it was almost 100 degrees this summer and drove it back from the mountains this weekend and it was -8 degrees. it's hard to properly prep a car when the temperatures are so extreme.

how did the valve body affect the shift feel?

[svxfiles]

[QUOTE=92snowmachine;730926]i have been considering a second svx for summer driving. i drove the svx to the mountains when it was almost 100 degrees this summer and drove it back from the mountains this weekend and it was -8 degrees. it's hard to properly prep a car when the temperatures are so extreme.

how did the valve body affect the shift feel?[/QUOTE]

In my Claret (with about 350 hp) it shifts very solidly!
I have another LAN valve body that I'm going to put in my sort of stock Pearlie, and I expect the same, no slip, no waiting, just thunk and go!

[Chucksta]

"i have been considering a second svx for summer driving. i drove the svx to the mountains when it was almost 100 degrees this summer and drove it back from the mountains this weekend and it was -8 degrees. it's hard to properly prep a car when the temperatures are so extreme."

I live in the same kind of climate, 100 F in the summer, -25 in the winter. I have a thermostatically controlled aftermarket cooler. It does exactly what it's supposed to do, at 0 F, I get torque converter lock up as soon as the temp gauge hits about four o'clock.. Maybe five miles of gentle driving or so.

As "SVXfiles" noted, at 40 F , his is not staying hot enough, once the torque, converter locks up, to stay locked. That indicates that the cooler is actually cooling the trans fluid below proper operating temp.

As to the OP ( steveherman)'s original post, he wants to avoid a thermostatically controlled cooler... Why? Are they reputed to be prone to failure? , inaccurate temperature control? non adjustable set point? Properly functioning, they bring the system to it's optimal temp and keep it there.

As far as filters go, I have one, but it gets replaced every other oil change, along with four fresh quarts of synthetic. I just consider it cheap insurance.

[fasteract7]

The way temp. controlled thermostats are built, they can fail closed (almost never open unless the spring breaks..very rare). Builders suggest in and out temp guage placement for optimum safety with "auto" thermostats. Personally I have a manual valve inline for colder weather.

[steveherman]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

A 7.5" X 12 X3/4" cooler from Hayden/Imperial would be more than enough for Florida!
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE if you have the Subaru factory campaign filter, take it off!

In Florida you do not REALLY need the cooler/warmer IMHO, and it is VERY VERY restrictiive to flow.
I hope this helps.

Where would this campaign filter be?
I am not sure if I have it.

Where do I mount the hayden/imperial cooler?
Does the flow direction thru the cooler matter?

[svxcess]

The campaign filter would be attached to the driver's side front tow hook. You can probably see it below your battery tray from under the hood.

From underneath, it is right next to the lower radiator hose. You can't miss it if you have it.





.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by steveherman

Where would this campaign filter be?
I am not sure if I have it.
What John said.

Where do I mount the hayden/imperial cooler?
I like to mount them in a horizontal position attached to the AC condenser using the supplied mounting zip locks.
(Because the condenser almost never leaves the car but the rad comes and goes much more frequently!)Does the flow direction thru the cooler matter?

Nope!

[Tapani]

First trial installation of the external cooler + fan.

I made a bracket/shroud for the puller fan. There were two square holes behind the battery tray - I just pushed plastic nuts in these and use 5mm bolts for the upper stay. Drilled a few holes for the lower mounting. I may have to reinforce the upper bracket a bit - it does flex a little, just to make sure it won't fracture due to fatigue.

The location is a bit risky from winter driving point of view - if I hit a hard snow bank the plastic bumper will give in and may foul with the cooler.

I also bought a separate thermostatic bypass valve for fast warm ups and winter cruising.

The fan will be controlled by a temp gauge with a programmable output for a relay.

These are the parts I bought so far (Summit):

Hayden Fluid Coolers
HDA-679
Fluid Cooler, Transmission, Plate, Natural, 11 in. x 11.625 in. x 0.75 in., 3/8 in. Inlet, Outlet, Each

Perma-Cool Standard Electric Fans
PRM-19128
Electric Fan, Single, 8 in. Diameter, Reversible, 2,400 cfm, Black, Plastic, Kit

Hayden Remote Oil Thermostats
HDA-163
Remote Oil Thermostat, Dual, 3/8 in. Nipple, Each

/T