littlefuse holder Q:

[kjoyes]

How is the littlefuse holder mounted to the fuse box in the engine bay?

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by kjoyes

How is the littlefuse holder mounted to the fuse box in the engine bay?

I actually made a bracket out of thin aluminum which slips over the end of the fusebox and is held in place by the snap-on fusebox cover.

The Fuse holder is pop-riveted to the bracket. Put the rivet in from the rear and compress it from the front. Check the photos closely.

Refer to this post HERE



It is a part of the "Alternator Wires" thread. Click HERE


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[kjoyes]

OK so i could take duct work tin. paint it black so it doesnt look like i rednecked it. drill two holes for the megafuse holder placing it on the tin and marking it with a nail so i know where to drill the holes put rivits in the tin not in the fuse box. so i dont drill in to my fuse box nice!!! i didnt want to drill into my factory fuse box anyway i like to keep things as a orginal as i can!!!!!
Q" do you bend it so it bottoms out inside the fuse box for stablity.
or do you just bend enough so it just catches?
have you had any problems with it radaling? or staying in place?


how long does this mod take from start to finish?
Do you crimp your end connectors or do you sauder? i plan on cutting the lenth of the cables i need first, then doing the crimping or saudering outside of the engine bay...
the factory negative ground cable is no longer need? and have to strip the negitive battery connector off with out damageing the copper what works best for doing that?
why did you mount the new 4 gauge ground cable to the horn bracket and not where you remove the factory ground cable?




thanks again for all your knowlege that you bring to this form...

[kjoyes]

oh ya sorry with the bunbardment of same old questions will try to do a seach before posting!!!!!!
I plan on doing this mod with the factory alt. untill i get enough money to buy the 160amp one.
but it will give me peace of mind when i go out to start my car in the cold winters of minnesota.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by kjoyes

OK so I could take duct work tin. paint it black so it doesn't look like I rednecked it. Drill two holes for the megafuse holder placing it on the tin and marking it with a nail so i know where to drill the holes put rivets in the tin, not in the fuse box. so I don't drill in to my fuse box nice!!! i didn't want to drill into my factory fuse box anyway I like to keep things as a original as i can!!!!! Make the bracket first and test fit to make sure it fits correctly. Put the fusebox cover on. Mark and drill the location for the holes.Then you can paint it ith some flat black paint and rivet tke fuse holder to it,

Do you bend it so it bottoms out inside the fuse box for stability, or do you just bend enough so it just catches? Doesn't have to bottom out completely. Make it out of heavy cardboard and trim to get the correct fit

Have you had any problems with it rattling? or staying in place? Does not rattle. The weight of the megafuse and the cables, plus the tight bend in the metal bracket where it slips over the fuse box keeps it quiet.It is held in place by the fusebox cover


How long does this mod take from start to finish? Completely variable. For everything, took a few hours. Take your time and don't rush.

I plan on cutting the length of the cables i need first, then doing the crimping outside of the engine bay...
I crimp everything. Do not solder. Test fit all the wires for length, including the terminals. If you don't have a hydraulic crimper, take your cables to a local battery shop and have them crimp the connectors on for you. Do not try to use pliers or a hammer.

The factory negative ground cable is no longer needed? and have to strip the negative battery connector off with out damaging the copper what works best for doing that? Not sure of the question. You can leave the negative connection alone and add the two new ground wires to it

Why did you mount the new 4 gauge ground cable to the horn bracket and not where you remove the factory ground cable? It is a heavier mounting point, with a bigger bolt for the ground cable. Makes a better ground


Thanks again for all your knowledge that you bring to this forum...

Just read the directions carefully and do things in order and you will be fine. Again, read the alternator wiring upgrade procedure HERE

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[BoxerFanatic]

I just finished up this modification... and I considered doing what SVXCESS did with his fuse holder.

But I decided to do something slightly differently.

I mounted the fuse holder to my battery tray. (the plastic shell that the battery sits in, that has sides toward the engine, and toward the front of the car.

SVXCESS's car doesn't show that he is using one with his optima, and I imagine some SVXs may no longer have their original battery trays.

But if you do, I can tell you how I mounted mine. I have pictures, and I'll try to get them posted up tonight.

I positioned the fuse holder vertically on the outside of the tray wall. It is centered vertically, and mounted just slightly forward (toward the front of the car) of where the positive battery post is. There is a shape-change on the tray wall, and I aligned the fuse holder to sit right along side that.

It basically fits on the car between the oil filler cap, and the positive battery terminal.

Basically it is as easy as mocking up it's placement on the car, to make sure there is clearance...

Scribe the mounting holes of the fuse holder onto the plastic of the battery shell, and drill them out. (of course off the car, without the battery in the tray. )

I then fixed the fuse holder to the battery tray wall with nylon license-plate frame bolts and nuts. Nice and non-conductive, and plenty stable enough to hold the fuse holder in place, and removable later, if necessary.

I fed the bolts from the battery side of the tray, with the nuts tightened down on the fuse-holder. The thin bolt heads don't impede the battery's placement at all.

The 4-gauge wire from the alternator fastens to the top fuse post, and then I made a ~14" 4-gauge lead from the bottom fuse post, that turns and comes up to meet the positive battery terminal lug, along with the starter lead, and the smaller lead to supply the fuse box for the rest of the circuits in the car.

I'll try to upload my clearer build-pics later.

The currently attached photo shows the finished work. The fuse holder is not visible, but it is down along side the battery between the battery hold down, and the positive terminal, in the space between those and the oil fill cap, and the AC pipe. There is clearance there without touching the corner of the valve cover.

[svxcess]

This is a drawing of the rear of the bracket that I made. I could not post it in the alternator wires thread as I had the maximum number of attachments.

Inside the gap in the front of the fusebox there is a thin, raised vertical rib of plastic that will keep the bracket from sliding down completely. Just cut a small notch on the bracket to slide down on either side of this strip. This will also act as a key and keep the bracket from sliding side-to-side when the fuse box cover is attached.





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[kjoyes]

I have another question about the megafuse holder, fuse is between altenator and the battery.
I want to add subs do i still have to put a inline fuse on the amp power wire going to the trunk?

[B 4 You]

It wouldn't hurt to. If I were you, I would. Just in case there would be a short anywhere, that second fuse would protect your battery, amp, or both. Fuses are cheap, and can save you lots of unwanted consequences.