1992 Claret w/5 speed & a ton of extras- NJ

[SVX92-97]

We inserted a 15A fuse with a pigtail and it doesnt blow, but it blows the green 30A fuse. We visually inspected the fuse box, and there were no frays in the wires underneath, just a lower bolt and upper bolt missing so the box wiggles around. As I mentioned earlier, the intake bolts were all loose, and on pass. side only threaded 3/4 of the way in There was a definite leak there as the gasket had marks on it where it was leaking. Havent had the time to work on it further, so as it stands, the intake has been removed, need to replace a cracked knock sensor, reinspect everything before we proceed to reinstall the intake properly. Will check fuel pump wiring for any signs of a short there, if not, could it be a bad relay thats in the trunk mounted under the rear deck.

[Earthworm]

I was suggesting, instead of blowing the expensive 30a fuses, temporarily use a cheap 30a fuse until you can find the problem. Don't assume it's the fuel pump/relay since there are other engine components on that circuit.

You may need to sacrifice some cheap fuses or spend some time with a multimeter checking voltages and continuity within the circuit to narrow down where the short is occurring. Don't measure current as you will blow the fuse in the multimeter (10a usually).

[Hocrest]

Or visit a U-Pull yard and get a bunch of green 30A links. Most 90+ Subaru's have a few. It wouldn't take more than a few minutes to fill your pocket.

[TomsSVX]

Has anyone thought about checking resistance to ground while disconnecting associated pieces of the circuit to find where the issue may be centralized?

[Conn SVX]

That would be disconnecting the hot end of the wire ( battery/fuse end) and disconnecting the ground end and then touch dead hot wire and ground to see it there is resistance ???? Is there an easier way?

[benebob]

Originally Posted by Conn SVX

That would be disconnecting the hot end of the wire ( battery/fuse end) and disconnecting the ground end and then touch dead hot wire and ground to see it there is resistance ???? Is there an easier way?

Naw they don't own bimmers.

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by Conn SVX

That would be disconnecting the hot end of the wire ( battery/fuse end) and disconnecting the ground end and then touch dead hot wire and ground to see it there is resistance ???? Is there an easier way?

No, that would be taking the fuse out and ohming the circuit to gnd and check resistance as each end of the circuit is disconnected to find out which if a single component is causing the short to gnd. These are basic electronic troubleshooting steps that the mechanic should have checked unless he is simply a parts replacer and not a diagnostic tech.

Tom

[Rodolfo]

Originally Posted by Mike621

Yes the car is drivable.

[Conn SVX]

Well if you do check it when the component (fuel pump etc.) is still in line won't you see the resistance to ground , In my explanation I was checking to see if the wire itself was grounding out as from the pump to the fuse . Each wire going to the fuse panel has to be eliminated and isolated. Question is: How did it run 250 miles and die 2 miles from the destination . (your mileage may vary ) What could have cause such a catastrophic assurance.
and what does :rolleyes: mean

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by Conn SVX

Well if you do check it when the component (fuel pump etc.) is still in line won't you see the resistance to ground , In my explanation I was checking to see if the wire itself was grounding out as from the pump to the fuse . Each wire going to the fuse panel has to be eliminated and isolated. Question is: How did it run 250 miles and die 2 miles from the destination . (your mileage may vary ) What could have cause such a catastrophic assurance.
and what does :rolleyes: mean

If you see an open circuit to ground at the fuse terminal that is a problem in and of itself. The components in the circuit should have some resistance to gnd. Determining which of these has too much be disconnecting them one by one will determine which part is faulty or at least lead you to which wire may be shorted out.

One thing to consider is that the interior of this car was changed at least once. A seat mounting bracket or something of that nature could have pinched a wire which could possibly cause the fuse to blow. It is going to take time, schematics and diligence to find the cause of the issue. Throwing parts at it is not going to get you anywhere.

Tom

[Conn SVX]

Tom I mentioned the interior swap 5 pages ago if u remember and was told the car was driven 3,000 miles after that and it was still a Auto then I believe. a pinched wire and be pinched for years and not cause a problem and then Bam it shorts out . Just moving the seat or dropping the rear seat down could cause it .

Answer I got when I showed the interior picture was "The photo of the "in progress" of a successful interior swap which you obtained from my album is from over four years ago. The car traveled 30,000 miles and to many Reading Meets since then and has been seen and admired by many"

[SVX92-97]

To anyone who was curious if mike621's claret every got running. I tried contacting via email the guy who bought it from me, Lee Benson from Hopewell, NJ. and he never replies. He lives on a farm in Hopewell, NJ. so anyone in that area let us know if you see it around. It may be in a Barn somewhere.

[SVX92-97]

I heard the buyer Lee Benson from Hopewell, NJ titled this car but did not register it. Sounds like he still hasnt fixed the idle problem yet

[Conn SVX]

That would starting , running and moving problem.

[Green1995SVX]

Originally Posted by Conn SVX

That would starting , running and moving problem.

What?