SVX crumpled by a Jeep bumper, how bad?

[SoCal LS-L]

I knew this was going to happen to MINE at some point, how much is it going to cost to repair it.... got the girls insurance info and making a claim tomorrow. Thats part of the unibody right? Are they going to give me some BS about how they can just cut off a chunk of the sheetmetal and melt another one in? The rear window cant roll up all the way now either.

This isnt going to be some crap like "well the damage exceeds the cars value blah blah we'd like to total your car", right?

This sucks, when I saw my SVX like that it was kind of like being punched in the stomach.

[NikFu S.]

Looks like poop, but fixable with some welding-pull thingy. I forget what it's called.

I give it 3/10 on teh damageometer.

[kwren]

sorry, sorry, sorry... I learned the hard way that insurance companys like to total things that are older and give you half what the car was really worth.

They won't repair or replace the vehicle many times like they
should because they don't really have to.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Keith

[Green1995SVX]

I know you don't want to hear it, but that looks totaled to me.

Our cars are very old, and nearly worthless unless in top-notch condition.

[1986nate]

Chris, from my experience as well as what I've learned from other's experiences on here. Don't take their first offer at what the car's value is. No matter what number they give you saying what the car is worth, fight for more. Explain any work you have done, even if you don't have receipts for labor if you've done the stuff yourself, at least have receipts for any parts you have replaced or repaired.

All in all, its not too bad and I don't believe it would be totaled, but it all depends on the area. Things seem to be a bit more expensive in CA than in WI. The window not rolling up I would bet is due to a bent up regulator or motor or anything else and parts are probably jammed up in there. The door should not need to be replaced with new, any body shop should be able to "refinish" the door. The quarter panel on the other hand, is a 50/50 shot on whether it needs to be replaced, new metal can be welded in, or if it can be pulled and filled in to retain the proper shape. With the issues of the window not going back, I would opt for a new quarter panel if possible. If worse comes to worse and they either want to total it or you aren't happy with what they are going to do to repair it, etc. You can always have them cut you a check for repairs by saying that you can do the work yourself or have a buddy that owns a shop that can do it or something like that. They will give you a bunch of garbage about how labor rates can increase and blah blah blah but stick to your guns. If they say they will total it, again, fight for a higher amount of the car, and if they still do, you can always buy it back from them next to nothing, and you should be able to drive it as is with a salvage title.

If I remember right, do you still have a maroon hood or other parts from something else that happened or was that someone else? Sorry, my memory is horrible. If it is yours that is like that, then you may definitely just want to say you will get it fixed yourself and take the money and run. Get the quarter panel pulled out and check behind the interior for whats going on with the window and regulator/motor assembly and get parts from people here. Used parts on the forum is always going to be cheaper than the insurance cost of getting parts from salvage yards. One example, when mine was fixed, they paid $75 +shipping on a driver's side mirror. Anyone here knows that you can get one for about $30 shipped. I even bought a brand new in box already painted from Subaru that was old stock for $30 shipped.

Again, a lot of the stuff I mentioned or said is normal for here in WI but in CA, insurance practices may be very different. Also, when I got mine fixed, they were willing to repair up to 100% of the vehicles assessed value. Again, might just be a WI thing, I'm not sure. Main thing for you to do right away is get that interior apart to see what's going on with the window. This should not affect anything that an insurance adjuster will say especially if you mention you had to take it apart to get the window up to avoid water damage on the interior.

Sorry to hear, but main thing is don't get too stressed about it. It sucks big time, I've been there, but remember to just think clearly, wait until you get the ins adjuster there and then fight for as much as you can and stick to your guns. With help from people here, I'm sure you'll get through it alright.

Another good person to ask about this stuff would be Mike621 if he doesn't chime in on this thread soon.

[1986nate]

Originally Posted by Green1995SVX

I know you don't want to hear it, but that looks totaled to me.

Our cars are very old, and nearly worthless unless in top-notch condition.

Mike, (i'm sure you remember and have seen the pics) I had quarter panel damage (although not that bad), had both bumpers refinished and repainted, door refinished, new OEM fender, new used side mirror refinished and repainted, all side cladding refinished and repainted and a new OEM center cap all covered by ins. Again, the ins company was willing to repair up to 100% of the value of the car and it may be different in CA.

[SoCal LS-L]

Thanks guys, and thanks for the advice Nate, ill make it happen.

Its State Farm thats going to be paying me so I know they have money to spend.

[NikFu S.]

My car has been in two accidents since I bought it, both times the repair estimate exceeded it's value and my insurance never totaled it.

You might get away with getting it repaired.

[Manarius]

I had a dent deeper than that and it was only about $400 to get it pulled, sanded, and repainted. I don't know what you guys are talking about...totaling the car over a small thing like that. Okay, the regulator, and other window junk is another 200 and labor. Up the estimate for the body work to $500 and it's still under $1000.

With that damage there, they're going to get a dent puller that puts small rivets in the panel to pull it out. Then, they'll putty the crap out of it, sand it down, and put a couple coats of paint and clearcoat on there. There's no metal that is severely creased and putty could be used to fill the rest of the small divots.

[davew833]

The new dent pullers spot-weld small studs to the sheet metal. The dent puller grips the studs, the dent is pulled, then the studs are cut off and the welds ground down. No need to drill holes in the sheet metal this way.

[immortal_suby]

Originally Posted by Manarius

I had a dent deeper than that and it was only about $400 to get it pulled, sanded, and repainted. I don't know what you guys are talking about...totaling the car over a small thing like that. Okay, the regulator, and other window junk is another 200 and labor. Up the estimate for the body work to $500 and it's still under $1000.

With that damage there, they're going to get a dent puller that puts small rivets in the panel to pull it out. Then, they'll putty the crap out of it, sand it down, and put a couple coats of paint and clearcoat on there. There's no metal that is severely creased and putty could be used to fill the rest of the small divots.

+1 That'll buff right out. Doesn't look to bad at all.

[Mike621]

I forsee an estimate $1000-$1750. State Farm usually will want to total it.

[ensteele]

I hate to say this, but it looks like more than $1000-$1750 to me. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress and offers.

[SoCal LS-L]

Thanks Earl.... even if they happen to total it, I will do the buyback thing. Ive put too much sweat and tears into keeping her on the road than to let a dent be the end!

[SoCal LS-L]

So the adjuster is coming today, is there anything I should look for as far as her assessment of the damage so as to make sure im not getting screwed?