11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build - Page 22

TomsSVX · #**316** 07-15-2010, 05:25 AM

Permacool... its a relatively generic adapter plate...

Tom

SilverSpear · #**317** 07-15-2010, 07:47 AM

Hmmm there is a sandwich adapter that fits above the filter and is connected to the cooler through the SS hoses.

I would assume it is an Earl's Performance (not our Earl

) similar to this HERE

SilverSpear · #**318** 07-15-2010, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Permacool... its a relatively generic adapter plate...

Tom

Ooops I just saw your reply Tom. I checked Permacool and it seems there are different models, 182, 185, 186, etc... which one fits the EG33? Sorry I don't have the car on hand to take measurements right now

Sov13t · #**319** 07-15-2010, 12:11 PM

Looks sweet... I hear its good for warming up waffles in the morning as well...

Dual purpose for everything :-D

TomsSVX · #**320** 07-15-2010, 04:49 PM

I used the 186... The O-rings supplied didn't quite work well for me, so I got a square o-ring from a different filter (one from my shop I work at). Pulled it from the filter, fit it to the adapter plate and used that instead. Just a heads up

Tom

SVXRide · #**321** 07-16-2010, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

I used the 186... The O-rings supplied didn't quite work well for me, so I got a square o-ring from a different filter (one from my shop I work at). Pulled it from the filter, fit it to the adapter plate and used that instead. Just a heads up

Tom

There seems to be a uniform opinion that the o-rings that come with the permacool sandwich adapters are garbage....

-Bill

Boxersix · #**322** 07-16-2010, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVXRide

There seems to be a uniform opinion that the o-rings that come with the permacool sandwich adapters are garbage....

-Bill

yes they are. I buy all the oil cooler products for my customers cars through Bat inc(www.batinc.net) Mocal and Setrab, nothing else. I've seen cheaper coolers split, and had a friend lose a $70K Stohr Wp1 race car to a horrible oil fire because a cheaper replacement cooler failed(AN fitting split right off the cooler). The cheaper snadwich plates tend to have orings(on both the main seal and the fitting seals) that are already dry rot form the start and just leak like nuts.

Also on any NPT fittings that thread into the sandwich plate and/or the cooler, I'll use a little bit of Permatex Hydraulic thread sealant(it's purple) as it locks the fitting into place and seals it permanently without having to cram the fitting down hard. MANY people overtighten these fittings and either split the snadwich plate or stress the cooler and end up with a high pressure oil leak.

for subaru you want part number SP1F. thread is 20mm. The thermostatic unit is a very tight fit(SP1FT) and locks you into a small range of hose positioning, but can be used with a 1/2" thick spacer(also avail via batinc) for better positioning.

I shoot for about 180F oil temp if considering a thermo unit. if using a full flow sandwich plate i just size the cooler accordingly to acheive that temp.

I am running SP1F with cooler #A16A10HD on the Eg33 with lines I made to fit.

Boxersix · #**323** 07-16-2010, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shotgunslade

Danny:

If you're talking about the oil filter, there is no adaptor. It fits. Just much greater volume than stock oil filter. Part number is in my post. As for the oil cooler, YT will have to discuss that.

also NAPA 1357 as well. larger capacity than those dinky stock subaru filter for sure.

SVXRide · #**324** 07-16-2010, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxersix

also NAPA 1357 as well. larger capacity than those dinky stock subaru filter for sure.

Does a Purolator L14610 cross reference to the NAPA 1357? How much does the SP1F run (I'm almost afraid to ask...)?

-Bill

Boxersix · #**325** 07-17-2010, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Does a Purolator L14610 cross reference to the NAPA 1357? How much does the SP1F run (I'm almost afraid to ask...)?

-Bill

Don't know off hand, don't have my book in front of me but that's the filter(size) i run on my WRX. Compared to the dinky WRX/STi filter it's about 3x the capacity. I would imagine L14610 is the same or bigger going by that picture above..

SP1F is about $70, SP1FT is about $120, and the cooler I mentioned is about $200(all prices + shipping charges). Line is about $14.5 foot(aeroquip, I use nothing else and YES there is a difference between it and cheaper line), fittings range in price.

Estimated, the cooler setup on my car is about $430 retail not including that bracket holding the cooler to the motor. Doesn't get much higher quality than it though, say for maybe a Setrab core but that's a bit overkill for a street car.

My wholesale prices are a bit cheaper, but I'm not at my shop to look up now unfortunately.

shotgunslade · #**326** 07-18-2010, 11:10 AM

Starter broke again. Engine doesn't really like to start. Have to coax it. All packed up and ready to go to pocono for the weekend. Tried to start it; hadn't run it for a week or so. Nothing for 2 or 3 times with the starter. Then it almost caught, a couple of cylinders fired; there a clunk, and then, the next time I tried, the starter rotated freely without engaging the flywheel gear "Wheeeee." This is getting tedious. In the old days, the prescription would be a broken bendix spring. $20 and an hour or so of labor. Not any more.

Boxersix · #**327** 07-18-2010, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shotgunslade

Starter broke again. Engine doesn't really like to start. Have to coax it. All packed up and ready to go to pocono for the weekend. Tried to start it; hadn't run it for a week or so. Nothing for 2 or 3 times with the starter. Then it almost caught, a couple of cylinders fired; there a clunk, and then, the next time I tried, the starter rotated freely without engaging the flywheel gear "Wheeeee." This is getting tedious. In the old days, the prescription would be a broken bendix spring. $20 and an hour or so of labor. Not any more.

Truth in every way!

It would be nice to attempt to may a hybrid starter using a manual starter nose section and the motor section from an EG33 auto, armature rewound for a little more torque

In reality it's possible. I looked at it myself back when I did the EG33/6mt swap into the wrx and realized I had no good manual starters in house.

Or just look into modifying a Porsche 911 G50/96(~'90-'94 964, 95-98 993, any GT3 or '01+ 911 Turbo) to fit. The mounting is very similar and those starters turn over 3.8L 11.5:1 GT3 race motors like butter

. Modifying wouldn't be too difficult for the most part. I have a few of those in house as well.

shotgunslade · #**328** 07-18-2010, 05:46 PM

Actually, the starter seems to turn it over pretty quickly. With this high lift longer duration camshaft and other mods, it just doesn't like to start. Even after I get it going, I have to give it a little accelerator for a couple of minutes or it will die. The problem is, I think, that starter turns it over a number of times and then the engine fires a couple of times, and the starter drive gear doesn't get disengaged and the disengagement assembly breaks. I suppose I could have knocked a tooth off the flywheel ring gear and the drive gear is hitting the toothless spot. I should put it in gear and give it a shove to rotate the flywheel to see if that's the problem. Had that problem in a 66 El Camino 283. Sometimes, the flywheel would be in the wrong place and the starter wouldn't engage. Just had to rotate the crankshaft a little bit, and then it was OK.

Boxersix · #**329** 07-18-2010, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shotgunslade

Actually, the starter seems to turn it over pretty quickly. With this high lift longer duration camshaft and other mods, it just doesn't like to start. Even after I get it going, I have to give it a little accelerator for a couple of minutes or it will die. The problem is, I think, that starter turns it over a number of times and then the engine fires a couple of times, and the starter drive gear doesn't get disengaged and the disengagement assembly breaks. I suppose I could have knocked a tooth off the flywheel ring gear and the drive gear is hitting the toothless spot. I should put it in gear and give it a shove to rotate the flywheel to see if that's the problem. Had that problem in a 66 El Camino 283. Sometimes, the flywheel would be in the wrong place and the starter wouldn't engage. Just had to rotate the crankshaft a little bit, and then it was OK.

How is you car tuned?(MAS, MAP, Alpha N) I see Hydra in your sig.

shotgunslade · #**330** 07-18-2010, 07:14 PM

Hydra. Tom leaned it out a little bit, in my quest to pass emissions. I'm easily passing at 2500, but failed on idle, probably because I had to leave it at the shop and he probably let it sit for a while and the cats cooled off. It failed with very high HC (634 ppm), but a good CO (about 68ppm) and an O2 reading of 2.8%. That tells me the cats weren't working. If they were, and HC was very high, CO would also be high and O2 would be nothing.

Anyway, once it gets warmed up, it runs great. Getting it there is a problem.