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  #1  
Old 03-18-2007, 12:39 AM
Viet_Vet Viet_Vet is offline
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Help me find link to slotted rotors

A while ago, I was in the forums when I ran across a link for drilled and slotted rotors with pads. I don't remember the exact price, but I thought it was a great deal. I think it was a website for Subaru parts, or SVX parts, but can't remember much more. If anyone out there can make sense about what I am talking about, please respond. Thanks
  #2  
Old 03-18-2007, 01:22 AM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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The best way to research the slotted / drilled rotors is to type in slotted rotors in the search feature at the top of the page. It will give you lots of threads to read about them. If you have questions then, post a question again and we will try to answer. This way you will get lots of answers to many of your questions and find out who sells them. Good luck on the search. The best thing you can add to your brake system is the stainless steel braided brake lines. There is no swelling when the brakes are applied and they feel much more positive when applied.
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1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855
1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872
1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097
2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951
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  #3  
Old 03-18-2007, 10:03 AM
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There are several sources of drilled and slotted rotors out there, including eBay and Race Concepts. Ben at Race concepts has been a friend of SVXNet for a long time and many of us have had his products. You mentioned drilled and slotted rotors and I would suggest that you consider your ultimate purpose when deciding drilled and slotted, dimpled and slotted, slotted only, or plain. There has been anecdotal evidence that drilled rotors are weaker than plain, or slotted. I am one of those anecdotes, having cracked a rotor during a particularly intense track day. If you intend to drive at speed on a track or Autocross, would suggest you look at dimpled and slotted or slotted only. If you are interested in appearance (assume you have more open after-market wheels) the drilled and slotted have more visual interest.

As for pads, I have to swear by Axxis ULT (Ultimates). The squeal a little bit, but have given me flawless performance at the track. Our front pads also fit a number of older Nissan SUV's and pick-ups, including the 1987-1990 van, the 1987-1995 Pathfinder, the 1998-2004 Frontier, and the 1985-1995 D21. I have sometimes bought pads listed for these vehicles instead of SVX's, because they were cheaper than the SVX nominal pad. Our rear pads are shared shared with 1990-1999 Legacies and 1992-1998 Impreza's, so they are also easy to find. Brakewarehoues.com has the best deal that I've found for Axxis ULT (new name) pad at $64.99 per pair.

I have a set of front slotted FrozenRotors (cryo-treated) that I may be selling at Reading.
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94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold

Last edited by shotgunslade; 03-18-2007 at 10:28 AM.
  #4  
Old 03-18-2007, 09:10 PM
Viet_Vet Viet_Vet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shotgunslade
If you are interested in appearance (assume you have more open after-market wheels) the drilled and slotted have more visual interest.

I have a set of front slotted FrozenRotors (cryo-treated) that I may be selling at Reading.

Nah, I'm an old guy with the original SVX rims . This is the first SVX I have owned, although I worked for a Subaru dealership since '86. I drive fast and hard, but not on the track, and always safely. I'm looking for a set of rotors that will perform better than stock, not warp, and last a long time. As for the front slotted FrozenRotors you have for sale.... can you clue me in on more details pls.

Thanks for the info and advice. It is appreciated.
  #5  
Old 03-18-2007, 10:35 PM
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richardstanley richardstanley is offline
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I also was going to get some slotted/drilled rotors. The stainless brake lines: do they just perform better? Honestly thats not what i'm into as much as i dont want them to warp, i doubt i'll be hard on it at all, definitely not like autox or anything like that, what do you guys suggest?
  #6  
Old 03-19-2007, 05:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richardstanley
I also was going to get some slotted/drilled rotors. The stainless brake lines: do they just perform better? Honestly thats not what i'm into as much as i dont want them to warp, i doubt i'll be hard on it at all, definitely not like autox or anything like that, what do you guys suggest?
Brake lines have to take a lot of pressure to close the calipars over the rotors to help you stop. Typical brake lines are rubber, which have a degree of elasticity, which can reduce responsiveness of the brakes. Stainless steel brake lines have less elasticity than the rubber ones, naturally, so you might see improved performance.

Personally i've never had a car with stainless steel brake lines, and i've never had an issue, however they do look much nicer so if you have custom rims, that might be incentive to purchase them as well.
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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!!
  #7  
Old 03-19-2007, 07:06 AM
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shotgunslade shotgunslade is offline
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The FrozenRotors cost about $160 each. They have an unusual slotted pattern, but are not drilled. I installed them last October and they have one track day on them, along with about 2500 miles of street driving, and a winter. I'll probably be asking about $180 for the pair. The story on the cryo-treatment is that it is supposed to make them much stronger and resistant to cracking. This would only be of interest to those who will be abusing their rotors. One member here was talking about putting together a number of 0-120-0 cycles at maximum effort. The cryo rotors might be of interest for that activity, or the race track, or for someone who commuted to work over several thousand vertical feet of switchbacks everyday.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
  #8  
Old 04-11-2007, 11:36 AM
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SVeXy96 SVeXy96 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richardstanley
I also was going to get some slotted/drilled rotors. The stainless brake lines: do they just perform better? Honestly thats not what i'm into as much as i dont want them to warp, i doubt i'll be hard on it at all, definitely not like autox or anything like that, what do you guys suggest?
Don't waste your money on stainless steel brake lines. Those are meant for like formula 1 cars with calipers pushing out 3000 psi...an SVX should average around 1700 psi so they do nothing for you, but look pretty and how many people are gonna try to look though your wheels and around the rotors and calipers to see what your brake lines look like?
  #9  
Old 04-11-2007, 11:43 AM
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SVeXy96 SVeXy96 is offline
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-97...QQcmdZViewItem

By the way I just put these on my car and I am very happy with them so far! $164 for all 4 rotors and another $80 for all pads. I got them in a few days shipped through DHL ground, but I'm also in Cali so you might want to call them to see if they can ship UPS or something.
  #10  
Old 04-12-2007, 07:47 AM
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GOT2HAVESVX GOT2HAVESVX is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVeXy96
Don't waste your money on stainless steel brake lines. Those are meant for like formula 1 cars with calipers pushing out 3000 psi...an SVX should average around 1700 psi so they do nothing for you, but look pretty and how many people are gonna try to look though your wheels and around the rotors and calipers to see what your brake lines look like?
I just put D/S rotors, new pads and SS lines and they feel MUCH different then the stock ones, the lines arent just for cars like formula 1 cars, they DO make a great bit of difference.
From Earls post:


"The best thing you can add to your brake system is the stainless steel braided brake lines. There is no swelling when the brakes are applied and they feel much more positive when applied. "
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  #11  
Old 04-12-2007, 01:20 PM
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I just recieved my rotors and pads from iRotors, drilled and slotted, 220$ for 4 rotors and 8 pads. They seem like great quality, zinc coated to prevent rust. They're heavy and defidently don't feel chinsy. I will let people know once they're on how they feel and perform. picked them up off ebay, because i couldn't afford the nice ones they have, on a budget at the moment, plenty of repairs to do, not a lot of money.
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1987 Winnebago Elandan 35'
2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600
2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 6.0litre Power Stroke Diesel - Daily Driver.


Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!!
  #12  
Old 04-12-2007, 01:25 PM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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Good luck and tell us howyou like them. They should not be all that much different than the ones that you would buy from them directly. Just a different price because they are on ebay.
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[COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430
1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739
1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831
1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680
1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229
1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car)
1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913
1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164
1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176
1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215
1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525
1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624
1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961
1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855
1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872
1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097
2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951
1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420

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  #13  
Old 04-23-2007, 08:21 AM
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Had the front's installed the weekend before reading, but the rear sliders were not cooperating, so i couldn't get them done, until reading. Sat out saturday night with a couple folks and we got them on. They stop great, though i have a bit of a squeel from the front, that i have to work out and see what's going on. They drag a bit when you first get them on, my guess is from the zinc coating, but after that wears off, and your down to just rotor and pad, they're great. They were 220$ + shipping, or 450$ + shipping if you want the ss brake lines, but the lines are available for 100$ for 4 from svx motor sports, so much cheaper to go that route.

My rotors + pads:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4608862&rd=1,1

They look good and feel good, but i may purchase ceramic pads, as i'm not sure that the pads it comes with are that great, but even without pads, it's a great deal for 4 rotors that have worked very well for me thus far.
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2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600
2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 6.0litre Power Stroke Diesel - Daily Driver.


Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!!
  #14  
Old 05-05-2007, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVeXy96
Don't waste your money on stainless steel brake lines. Those are meant for like formula 1 cars with calipers pushing out 3000 psi...an SVX should average around 1700 psi so they do nothing for you, but look pretty and how many people are gonna try to look though your wheels and around the rotors and calipers to see what your brake lines look like?
One thing to note on this coment. BODY WEIGHT! There is a reason that we go with SS lines and heavy high stopping rotors and pads and even up to 8 and 6 piston calipers on cars like these..... Weight. We have the same problem that the Nissan GT R's do. Another thing every one should do it Nitrogen in your tires. You won't have ti dilly around wiht the presure as often and most places that do it will refill/rest the nitrogen when ever you ask for nothing. I have both and SVX and a Ipreza and the set of 17's and 18's I have an my winter set's are all Nitro. Very needed with the SVX's body weight.
Anyone here reset the braking bias to the rear a little more to smooth out your braking? I just go tmy SVX and am thinking of doing this.(NH has lots of curvy swirvy back roads and I like on and drive them to work.)
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2007, 09:25 AM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVeXy96
Don't waste your money on stainless steel brake lines. Those are meant for like formula 1 cars with calipers pushing out 3000 psi...an SVX should average around 1700 psi so they do nothing for you, but look pretty and how many people are gonna try to look though your wheels and around the rotors and calipers to see what your brake lines look like?
I will have to disagree with you on this. I have them, and the stopping power of them alone is very significant. Many other members have installed them without doing anything else and love them. It give you much better braking power. Paired with the slotted and/or dimple drilled rotors, it is a very worthwile upgrade on your brakes.
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[COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430
1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739
1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831
1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680
1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229
1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car)
1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913
1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164
1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176
1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215
1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525
1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624
1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961
1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855
1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872
1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097
2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951
1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420

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