Aussie Subaru Master Tech, any questions?

All right, hit me., (can't cay i'm gonna be able to help you with 'off the top off my head' fault codes/diagnosis on the spot . But I can defintely help ...I hope. . I have done a 'fair bit' of work with SVX's and a shipload of work on Subaru's in general. Fire away and we'll see how we go.
Try to include as much info as possible to help me to help you.

Cheers

Sixpack Subaru
(you may remember me from such films as,
'You did WHAT to it?!',
"I can't believe it's an 1800cc!"
and the classic, "Why does your SVX have a Gearshift Knob?!")

[pylon500]

OK, You asked for it!
I've had a problem with mine almost since I bought it.
I've had numerous mechanical failures that I've managed to get around or fix properly, Blown tranny, seized power steer pump, corroded water pump, leaky rocker covers, etc, etc.
The one thing that has been fairly constant though, (and that I've refused to go to Subaru to let attempt to fix for mega-bucks by just replacing expensive stuff till done!) is a habit it has of dropping off one cylinder at idle.
When first noted, I thought it was a plug, so I got in there and got out the plugs, which all looked OK?
I then thought it was a coil pack, so changed the one that seemed to be missing (at the time I would figure which one was missing by pulling off the the injector lead) which was the the rear left.
Made no difference.
It was suggested that my inlet manifold could be a bit cruddy, so that all came off to be cleaned, That was a fun job, NOT!
After all the above (and then some!) it will still decide to drop a cylinder now and then, 9 times out of 10 the front right.
You tend to pick up when it does it and learn all sorts of strange procedures to avoid it like;
At start, turn on ignition and wait till you hear something go 'clunk' in front of the dash, (fuel pressure relay?)
Wind engine to start, but hold starter on for at least 2 seconds after engine fires, (this seems to stabilize the initial idle)
NEVER press the accelerator, I have been getting a start where it fires and runs up to about 1000rpm (typical) but instead of dropping back to idle, it just stops, then I have to use some gas.
Also I find that to best avoid getting the 5 cylinder start next time, I always wait till the cooling fans have stopped before shutting down the engine, (can be a pain in summer)
If I get a 'bad start' I can sometimes cure it by flicking the key OFF and back ON fast enough that the engine doesn't stop, which seems to reset the computer or something?
I know the above has worked if the engine picks up to around 1500 rpm at which point it will run back down to it's 600rpm correct idle (when running on 5 cylinders, it generally idles at about 800rpm and shakes!)
I've also found that when running rough, if I slowly add gas it will, intially shake harder, pick up to around 1500 rpm (on 6!) then find a spot where without moving the accelerator, the engine will pulse up and down between 2000 and 1000rpm?
When I take my foot off as it's doing this, it will drop down to about 400 rpm on 4 cylinders and shake violently for about 4 seconds before going back to 800 rpm on 5 cylinders.
When driving, once the engine is above 1800 rpm it seems to run on all 6, but the transmition seems to get a bit confused as to when to change gears, typically it won't kick down.
The 5 cylider problem really shows up when you pull-up or corner, the rough idle plays havock with the power steer system, and I suspect confuses the ABS.
I've suspected the O2 sensors, but have only changed one for a second hand one. (those things are expensive!)
As a side note, I have another problem which seems to manifest itself with the rough idle in that, I have NEVER detected any form of engine braking from the tranny, either taking my foot off or even down shifting!, as soon as the foot comes off, the engine goes to idle, then the rough running shows up, the steering goes funny, the brakes start to pulse, etc, etc..
Typically I go through a set of pads a year!
As for the steering, I should point out that the pressure switch on my pump that 'ups' the rpm under load has never worked, in fact I now have a Liberty pump and it isn't even fitted! (the switch)
I know if I go to Subaru they'll want to change the ECU, the O2 sensors, the knock sensors, the TPS (been there, done that), my plugs, my coils, the injectors, maybe the spray rails, the fuel pump, the fuel filter, and god knows what else!!
This may even cure the problem, but I'd have to sell the car to pay for it!!
But I'm sure you enjoy a challenge!!!
Arthur.

Goddam!!!, (you bin waiting long ??) Ha!, feel better now??
just had a very quick read, two things come to mind above all else; the first is Idle speed control-so tell me what you have done to test it etc
The second is Air-Flow Meter-so tell me what you have done to test that etc too!! Jst a quick read mind you, it's a busy time of year for me!!
Cheers--I'll have a think and another read tomorrow and get back to ya!

[McTaff]

I have a tinny rattle (sounds almost like a metal ruler being tapped against a tin can) from under the car.

From inside the car, me and passengers all swear it is coming from directly under the handbrake lever (but on the underside of the car).

Subaru have pulled apart all the heat shields several times and removed all the stones, etc... found nothing. It is driving me crazy.

[n00b on demand]

Originally Posted by McTaff

I have a tinny rattle (sounds almost like a metal ruler being tapped against a tin can) from under the car.

From inside the car, me and passengers all swear it is coming from directly under the handbrake lever (but on the underside of the car).

Subaru have pulled apart all the heat shields several times and removed all the stones, etc... found nothing. It is driving me crazy.

Exhaust heat shield.

[SVXRide]

How about any experience you've had boring/sleeving the EG33 block?
-Bill

[NikFu S.]

I tried to cram a box into my backseat but it didn't fit.
I ended up ripping off teh trim around the auto seat belt.
It doesn't seem to want to pop back in.
How can I fix it?

[pylon500]

Hah,Hah, Bet you forgot all the Yanks would be watching!!
OK, first up "Idle speed control"?
I thought this was dictated by the ECU, and was un-adjustable? (like it says under my bonnet)
As for "Air-Flow Meter" I guess you check this from the code test plug(s)?
I've never been game enough to try plugging wires around in there 'till I'm sure what the hell I'm doing?
To that end I'll include a photo of my wire bundle, if you could confirm I'm supposed to use the ends of blue wires #1&2, to stick into orange block 'A'?
Arthur.

[Dessertrunner]

McTaff,
I had the same problem but I had taken all the heat shields off all ready. If you look underneath there is a muffler or cat flow through in the centre. That is the one, mine got really bad and we just cut it out and replaced it with a pice of stainless pipe. The exhaust gets a little loud but hard to notice. Cost me $50 to fix. One thing for sure the noise will get worst as the car gets older. If I get a chance I will take a photo of it for you. I can't do it till next week as I am going away.
Tony

Originally Posted by McTaff

I have a tinny rattle (sounds almost like a metal ruler being tapped against a tin can) from under the car.

From inside the car, me and passengers all swear it is coming from directly under the handbrake lever (but on the underside of the car).

Subaru have pulled apart all the heat shields several times and removed all the stones, etc... found nothing. It is driving me crazy.

Heyah,
quick question, does it do it worse when the eng's is cold? If it does I would be listening for a loose catalytic converter core. Failing this there are plenty of ways to make it happen, does it 'tap' in speed with engine rpm or vibration, or is it more relevant to road speed. This may sound stupid but I have had tailshafts/propshafts that have had a 'blob' of weld inside caused during manufacture, I worked builiding tailshafts and balancing engine components for a year or so, and I saw it happen there too!! Not saying this is your problem, just a thought. Tell me more about the frequency of the tapping......

Sixpack

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

I tried to cram a box into my backseat but it didn't fit.
I ended up ripping off teh trim around the auto seat belt.
It doesn't seem to want to pop back in.
How can I fix it?

Sorry bud, they never had auto seatbelts here, but look for some raised crescent shaped fittings on the rear of the trim, maybe the clips have falled out... Auto seatbelts-the Aust government would never go for that, that would reduce income from infringement notices too much!!!
Cheers

sorry I can't be of more help.

Sixpack

Originally Posted by SVXRide

How about any experience you've had boring/sleeving the EG33 block?
-Bill

Never had to Bill,
have done lots of o/size stuff on EJ's, they recommend .5mm on some models, I have gone to 1.0mm on turbo units as well without issues. Although they were closed deck. I would probably have a good look at where the reliefs are machined out for the inner case half bolts before I decided to bore out with out resleeving-I have had many that have split down this section when loaded excessively after boring out! Even on a std application EJ22! What did you have in mind?
Sixpack

Originally Posted by pylon500

Hah,Hah, Bet you forgot all the Yanks would be watching!!
OK, first up "Idle speed control"?
I thought this was dictated by the ECU, and was un-adjustable? (like it says under my bonnet)
As for "Air-Flow Meter" I guess you check this from the code test plug(s)?
I've never been game enough to try plugging wires around in there 'till I'm sure what the hell I'm doing?
To that end I'll include a photo of my wire bundle, if you could confirm I'm supposed to use the ends of blue wires #1&2, to stick into orange block 'A'?
Arthur.

No, I wouldn't. I would remove the Drivers side lower crash panel and look for the 'D' check and Memory check connectors-One's green-thats D check, the othwer is Black-thats memory. As far as I know, to clear the codes if any without the select monitor, you need to connect both of these, ign on, put foot on accelator and car in drive for one minute. This will only clear codes if you don't have any 'hard faults' ie; no faults occurring during reset. AL memorised faults will be erased. ANyway, that's what i would be doing. the earthing of the diag connector is mainly used, (over here), for ABS and SRS diagnostic issues and I wouldn't go probing in there without a Genuine W/Shop Manual in front of me!!!

Sixpack

Originally Posted by pylon500

Hah,Hah, Bet you forgot all the Yanks would be watching!!
OK, first up "Idle speed control"?
I thought this was dictated by the ECU, and was un-adjustable? (like it says under my bonnet)
As for "Air-Flow Meter" I guess you check this from the code test plug(s)?
I've never been game enough to try plugging wires around in there 'till I'm sure what the hell I'm doing?
To that end I'll include a photo of my wire bundle, if you could confirm I'm supposed to use the ends of blue wires #1&2, to stick into orange block 'A'?
Arthur.

As far as testing the idle speed controller,
The inputs responsible for idle speed control are the Crank Sensor, TPS,CTS, aircon and power stg switches(if equipped), in your model, if it has climate control then the idle circuit actually runs through the CCM. Basically you want to remove your ISC and clean it. If it has failed it will throw a code/CEL. The problem with the ISC is that it has no 'return signal' to the ECU, so essentially, if the ECU is sending the signal to the ISC and the eng is idling above the pre-determined threshold to open the ISC, then it will not change it's signal. Basically what I'm trying to say is that the ECU doesn't 'actually' see what the ISC is doing, it just sees the results;ie;raised idle, leaner mix etc... SO the ISC may be getting the correct signals, but is unable to move because of carbon/build-up. As far as airflow meter goes, this is one of the few things that CAN fail without throwing a code. Probe the back of tterminals at the airflow meter with a multimeter. You should have a voltage at idle from the signal wire of around 1.7-2.2V. Just get it idling, start probing until you get a voltage, the raise the rpm slightly and see what happens to it.
What's the problem with the car mate?

Cheers

Sixpack

[-JJ-]

QUOTE=McTaff I have a tinny rattle (sounds almost like a metal ruler being tapped against a tin can) from under the car.

From inside the car, me and passengers all swear it is coming from directly under the handbrake lever (but on the underside of the car).

Subaru have pulled apart all the heat shields several times and removed all the stones, etc... found nothing. It is driving me crazy./QUOTE

I had that aswell, after i had removed all the heat sheilding! The noise was directly under the handbrake area!

What i found was happening was that the sheild that lies between the center cat =>- was lowering itself down onto the center baring of the rear drive shaft, simply grap a big screw driver and pry it away or remove it or something along those lines