Where to get 5 speed PARTS?!?! - Page 2

rmjjensen · #16 08-25-2005, 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NomadTW

Good site!! I think I've closed the deal on the 04 that's been rear ended ....thank god. So I'll be able to get everything I need.

Anyone know any tricks to removing the 4EAT? (I've read you have to use a subaru tool to hold the engine ...what's that all about?) How bout the WRX 5MT -tricks?

Earthworm · #17 08-25-2005, 10:35 AM

If you don't support the engine when you remove the tranny it will fall into the radiator. We just used an extra jack stand.

rmjjensen · #18 08-25-2005, 05:03 PM

Okay ...so support the front of the engine from ____ ..remove transmission. Then can you remove the front engine support? Or that support must stay there the entire time until the new trans get installed WITH the rear crossmember - or just the trans itself is fine to be able to remove that front support.

Might be stupid questions but I'd like to make sure.

mbtoloczko · #19 08-26-2005, 09:27 AM

I think you're going to want to keep is supported the entire time. I'd recommend setting up a little jig to hold the engine in the correct position so that when you make the tranny crossmember, you can build it to the correct dimensions so that the tranny/engine have the proper fore/aft tilt and are not cocked to one side.

rmjjensen · #20 08-26-2005, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbtoloczko

I think you're going to want to keep is supported the entire time. I'd recommend setting up a little jig to hold the engine in the correct position so that when you make the tranny crossmember, you can build it to the correct dimensions so that the tranny/engine have the proper fore/aft tilt and are not cocked to one side.

Yeah that's what I figured. I'll have to rig up (maybe some straps) something to support the engine and would also allow for the car to be semi-mobile.

rmjjensen · #21 08-27-2005, 06:51 PM

I got a lot accomplished today. Removed partically everything.

But I cannot get the transmission (diff I should say) free from the engine. Is there any trick? I tried pry bars but there doesn't seem to be a good place to get a good grip. Any hidden bolts? I removed all the ones I saw. When I try to jack upward from the trans pan everything moves as one still. Hints?

I'm excited though - I was able to remove everything in one day...God only knows when I'll get all the 5 speed parts though

...hopefully Monday. The pedals were a bit of a pain to get apart....needed some swivels. AND I HAVE A 2 PIECE DRIVESHAFT

...should I get it lengthened - or try the outback driveshaft??

Big Question: I have to pull the parts from the WRX myself. Am I going to have to go through all of this process for the WRX? Or is it any easier?

mbtoloczko · #22 08-27-2005, 09:58 PM

If you can find an Outback driveshaft that's in good shape, that's the easiest solution. I tried one, and it caused a thumping sound and vibration at low speeds (< 10 mph), and it had a bit of vibration above 100 mph. In the end, I bought a new SVX drive shaft with the center CV joint, and had the front half lengthened 2.1". Very smooth now.

rmjjensen · #23 08-29-2005, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbtoloczko

If you can find an Outback driveshaft that's in good shape, that's the easiest solution. I tried one, and it caused a thumping sound and vibration at low speeds (< 10 mph), and it had a bit of vibration above 100 mph. In the end, I bought a new SVX drive shaft with the center CV joint, and had the front half lengthened 2.1". Very smooth now.

I think I'll just get it lengthened ....how expensive could it be.

I got all the parts I need for the 5-speed swap!!! I'm 99% certain I'm not missing a thing (aside from new clutch/pressure plate/flywheel) - but I do have stock used WRX flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and the bolts to go with it.

Now I just need time - too bad you can't buy that.

TomsSVX · #24 08-31-2005, 02:42 PM

i would suggest going with a one peice driveshaft... I get a feeling that the two peice and it's soft bushing cause a good deal of driveline slop. A good one will probobly cost you about 300.

Tom

rmjjensen · #25 08-31-2005, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

i would suggest going with a one peice driveshaft... I get a feeling that the two peice and it's soft bushing cause a good deal of driveline slop. A good one will probobly cost you about 300.

Tom

Like the outback shaft?

TomsSVX · #26 08-31-2005, 03:56 PM

a one peice chaft is a custom drivehsaft. It is one long piece instead of having universal joints in the middle it it straight.

Tom