Remote door lock playing up!

[Retired Kiwi]

I have a Subaru SVX (my second) on the sunny Gold Coast in Queensland, Australia. It is fitted with a factory keyless entry using an integrated key/remote. No alarm. There is an after maket immobiliser.
I can lock the doors manually using the key.
Some weeks ago the remote stopped working - I assumed battery in the remote control but the local dealer tested and said it was OK and i needed to bring in the car for checking.
Then the car battery gave up the ghost and I got it replaced. Last week I took the car to the dealer to get the remote system fixed. They said the remote batteries were faulty and replaced them After dong that (and I guess re-programming the remotes?) this new problem arose i.e. when you push the remote button the doors lock and immediately unlock!
The serviceman has no idea what could be causing it and said they would have to dismantle everything and test out all components and that this would be a very expensive exercise, possible about $2,000!
Has anyone experienced this? Any suggestions?
I suspect that I may have to ditch the factory system and go for a Brandt aftermarket system which would probably cost about $500 to give me keyless entry/central locking and another immobiliser!

[Electrophil]

$2000?? There's not that much to the door lock system. 2 actuators, a timer, and a 2 wire hook up to the alarm... Where are those brainiacs getting a high figure of 2k from?

I'm assuming the circuitry is the same between the US and Australia??

If it's unlocking immediately... No delay at all, then it sounds like you have a continuous 12V being supplied to the "unlock" side of the Actuator circuit. It's a 3 wire system.... 12V on one side, it locks... 12V on the other side, it unlocks. If its setting there with a continuous 12V on one side, then please don't let things be for long. It will of course drain the battery over time, and will definitely burn out the actuators. If the 12V fault is on the driver's side, it will take out both of them. (Passenger side too) Unless you are troubleshooting the circuit, You need to pull fuse 13 until it's resolved, or you'll be buying actuators. (Put the fuse back in for troubleshooting)

Kind of suspicious for the battery to go out at the same time...

Try manually pushing down on the lock lever in the driver's door. See if there is more than a normal amount of resistance, and if after pushing it down, see if it pops back up. If it pops back up, then there it is. It has nothing to do with the security system. Take the door trim off, and trace back where the 12V is coming from. Its probably your door lock timer, for that's where the actuator gets the 12V signals from.

If it doesn't pop back up, your security module is getting abnormal feedback and it is bouncing the lock circuit. But I doubt if the security module is fried itself.

its $2000 due to the martian technology involved in the production process...pricey stuff

[Electrophil]

Originally Posted by Weasel 22

its $2000 due to the martian technology involved in the production process...pricey stuff

I think you're right!!

[Retired Kiwi]

OK, tried the manual pushing down and resistance is normal. It stays down. Passenger door operates independently and then the drivers door pushes down both.
I guess its the control unit that the wires hook up to that is playing up and is the expensive part.
Have pulled out the fuse 13 and thank you for that tip.
Battery had lasted 5 years and conditions are quite hot here so not too bad really - may or may not have been related to the locking problem.
And the Oz models did not come with factory alarms so all we have is a control unit -is that the "security module" you are talking about?

[Conn SVX]

I got a quote for an auto remote start and keless entry for $270.00 installed.