Gearshift Selector Lever lock - Won't disengage

[ykobayashi]

I am working on replacing my factory head unit with a aftermarket stereo. I was able to disengage the Gearshift Selector Lever lock and move the shifter to "1" so that I could remove the stereo cage and audio door. I've installed the new head unit but now I can't get the shifter to come out of park without using the Gearshift Selector Lever lock override.

Have I done something wrong? I appreciate the help!!


Yoshi

[SVXdc]

Originally posted by ykobayashi
I was able to disengage the Gearshift Selector Lever lock and move the shifter to "1" so that I could remove the stereo cage and audio door. I've installed the new head unit but now I can't get the shifter to come out of park without using the Gearshift Selector Lever lock override.

Unfortunately, the instructions in the SVX owners manual on how to manually unlock the shift lever are not very detailed. The trick is that you're pushing a strip of metal that's about 1/2" below the hole where you insert the screwdriver. In my car at least, it was too easy for the screwdriver to slide past the side of the metal strip. I had to angle the tip of my screwdriver a little towards the right to touch the metal plate.

Did you push the screwdriver into the hole more than 1"? If so, you may have damaged the shift lock solenoid. Or possibly just bent or displaced the "lock plate" (not quite as bad). The only way to know for sure will be to open up the gearshift lever console and look.

First take a look at an exploded diagram of the shift lever... Diagram at SubaruParts.com (to navigate there from the SubaruParts home page, go [MAIN] [SVX] [199x xWD (choose your model)] [Steering System and Cable] [Selector System] ).

Part 35173 is the solenoid, 35122 is the lock plate (a metal strip, about 1/2" wide and several inches long, hinged on an axle. The solenoid pulls it from the bottom; your screwdriver pushes the top end).

To open the center console (this is from memory, so apologies if I forget anything):

• Pry up the flat trim plate that surrounds the gearshift lever (on some model years, the Lock/Unlock button is on this plate). It's just held in by 4 prongs that clip straight down into the console.
• Unplug the harness for the Lock/Unlock button.
• Remove the side trim panels (same piece as to access the antenna plugs/jacks, and the matching piece on the right side of the transmission hump).
• This uncovers a screw on the each side, at the very front of the center console; remove those two screws.
• Remove the fuzzy "floormat" at the bottom of the center storage bin.
• You'll now see three screws on the bottom; remove them.
• Remove the two screws holding the parking brake handle (I suggest first laying down a small towel to catch them in case you drop them).
• CAUTION: The thumb button has a spring. As you do the following, hold the button to keep it and the spring from flying out. Slowly lift the handle off the end of the lever. [When you go to put the handle back on, you will need to hold in the button a certain amount; look inside the handle, in the hole where the brake lever will go, to see how far]
• Slowly raise rear end of the center console first, then slide it slightly towards the rear seat, then raise the front end and lift out the entire console.

You may be able to see the solenoid at this point (I'm a little fuzzy). If not...

• Remove the 4 screws holding the "Indicator assembly" (the part below the gearshift lever, with the illuminated PRND321 bezel).
• Remove the gear shift handle (same procedure as for the parking brake handle, including a spring). However, there are wires going to the MANUAL pushbutton, so you can't pull the handle away very far. The plug/socket is about 12" away.
• Once the handle is off the end of the lever, you can lift up the indicator assembly.
• Disconnect the lamp bulb holder from the bottom of the indicator assembly (what lights up the PRND321) -- quarter turn, then pull out.

Now you'll be able to see the solenoid. When it works, it will move when you turn the ignition On and tap the foot brake pedal. It's very quiet. The solenoid pulls the metal lock plate, which in turn allows you to push the thumb button on the gearshift lever, and then pull the gearshift out of Park. Once you push the thumb button, a tiny switch at the bottom of the gearshift lever causes another solenoid inside the steering column to "click"; that one prevents you from removing the key until you're back in Park.

Take a close look at the shift lock solenoid (perhaps with a flashlight), to see if it looks like you gouged it, broke the wires, or perhaps somehow unplugged it.

Also look closely at the lock plate to see if you've bent it.

The next step depends on what you see.

[ykobayashi]

David,

Thank you, again. Your instructions were perfect! I was able to open it up and I found that with my incredible mechanical aptitude in trying to disegage the shift lock that I had caused some marring ("marring" means I ripped the masking tape and ripped a few of the wound wires) on the wire wound portion of the solenoid that pulls the plate. Nothing else looks damaged.

I suppose that I need to hand over the $59 and get a new one from Subaru Parts.com (it says part will ship in 4-10 days, how long has it taken for you?). However, before I go and order a part that I don't need, do you think that kind of marring on the wound area of the solenoid could cause the whole thing to go bad? (the damage is about as big around as a thin screwdriver that could fit though the hole for the override.

Regards,

Yoshi

[SVXdc]

Originally posted by ykobayashi
... ripped the masking tape and ripped a few of the wound wires
... do you think that kind of marring on the wound area of the solenoid could cause the whole thing to go bad?

Yes. Once the coil wire is broken, it's an open circuit, so it's not a solenoid any more.

If you have to replace it, first I'd look around for used ones (junk yards, or For Sale posts).

But you may be able to repair the damage. Remove the solenoid from the car so you can work on it in good light. Carefully remove all of the "masking tape" cover.

Start at the outermost layer of the break and unwind the wire in both directions away from the break.

Every few inches you'll come to a spot on the wire where your screwdriver nicked it (at the top of the coil). You want to get back to the first spot in each direction -- one will be fairly close to the solder joint where the wire harness connects to the solenoid, and the other will be in the opposite direction down the coil (which eventually winds all the way to the inside and comes back to the other solder joint).

As long as you don't remove too many feet of coil, you can join the two broken ends and it will work again. As you unwind, you may start seeing places that are nicked but not broken. You'll have to use your judgement to decide whether to continue unwinding, or make that the point where you join to the other wire.

If you're careful, you can solder the two ends together. Scrape off about 1/2" of insulation (the "shellac" that coats the wire). Unwind enough slack so that your solder joint is an inch or two away from the coil (so the heat won't melt the insulation further down the coil). Twist the ends together, and solder.

Then insulate the solder joint (perhaps with a little heat-shrink tubing). Finally, cover the repair with a layer of tape. Regular masking tape might do, though that area gets warm, so I'm afraid it would eventually dry up and fall off (not sure what else to suggest, though).

Good luck!