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  #46  
Old 11-27-2004, 11:12 PM
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Woops wrong button. 15.49sec. 1/4mi. It was done with no hood and the passenger side corner housing out. Other than that there were no mods done.
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  #47  
Old 11-28-2004, 07:42 AM
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Chiketkd Chiketkd is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by sicksubie
I meant to say low 14's (maybe high 13's even?). I've put in an underdrive pulley, exhaust, ground wire set-up, MSD Stacker, and I have taken out the intake resonator and added a Fram Airhog air filter (it was a K+N but, they're getting bad raps here lately so I switched). My G-tech got dropped, so I just bought a new one I haven't done a run since I did any mods. Stock I did a 15.19 back in September when I first bought the car.
Sicksubie,

If you want your 1/4 mile times to hold water, then I'd advise you to go to a dragstrip in the Spring. I've run a 14.48 @ 99.6mph on a g-tech this Fall, which means very little to me unless I can back it up.

Also, if you want the biggest return for your investment, upgrade to 4.11/4.44 gears in your trans and rear diff... All those other mods add some power, but that comes and goes with heat, altitude, humidity, etc... Gearing is immune to this.

-Chike
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Last edited by Chiketkd; 11-28-2004 at 01:04 PM.
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  #48  
Old 11-28-2004, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chiketkd

Sicksubie,

If you want your 1/4 mile times to hold water, then I'd advise you to go to a dragstrip in the Spring. I've run a 14.44 @ 99.6mph on a g-tech this Fall, which means very little to me unless I can back it up.

Also, if you want the biggest return for your investment, upgrade to 4.11/4.44 gears in your trans and rear diff... All those other mods add some power, but that comes and goes with heat, altitude, humidity, etc... Gearing is immune to this.

-Chike
Chike,
I've been giving the "G-Tech vs Drag Strip" issue some thought since my runs on Friday night and my sense is that, while the results don't perfectly match, there is a definite linear relationship. If you take into account the way the drag strip records ET/trap speed versus the way the G-Tech does, my results are fairly consistent. My back-to-back G-Tech runs which had 15.21 ETs with 98.1 and 100.3 mph "trap speeds" respectively line up with my last two drag strip runs of 17.357@89.65mph and 16.874@89.90mph. Given the total lack of traction I had at the strip (and you thought we were spinning on the G-Tech runs! ), the trap speeds are consistent with what I've been told the G-Tech will do (i.e. indicate a higher trap speed) ~ 10mph difference isn't bad! (okay, so to be totally accurate we'll have to also factor in the lower air temps at the drag stip - which I sure had a lot to do with the lack of traction. I think the VHT they spray down doesn't work well below around 50 deg F)
Now, to find bigger tires and fix the AWD!
-Bill
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'92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33
'92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension
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  #49  
Old 11-28-2004, 01:00 PM
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Chiketkd Chiketkd is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by SVXRide
Chike,
I've been giving the "G-Tech vs Drag Strip" issue some thought since my runs on Friday night and my sense is that, while the results don't perfectly match, there is a definite linear relationship. If you take into account the way the drag strip records ET/trap speed versus the way the G-Tech does, my results are fairly consistent. My back-to-back G-Tech runs which had 15.21 ETs with 98.1 and 100.3 mph "trap speeds" respectively line up with my last two drag strip runs of 17.357@89.65mph and 16.874@89.90mph. Given the total lack of traction I had at the strip (and you thought we were spinning on the G-Tech runs! ), the trap speeds are consistent with what I've been told the G-Tech will do (i.e. indicate a higher trap speed) ~ 10mph difference isn't bad! (okay, so to be totally accurate we'll have to also factor in the lower air temps at the drag stip - which I sure had a lot to do with the lack of traction. I think the VHT they spray down doesn't work well below around 50 deg F)
Now, to find bigger tires and fix the AWD!
-Bill
Bill,

I was also thinking that the G-tech we used could have been off by 10mph as well. My best trap speed of 99.6mph would correlate almost perfectly with the 89.54 I got at the track. Now the temps were a bit cooler during out g-tech runs than when I last raced at the track...

In terms of ET, I 'know' my car can do a 15.1 at the track in its current state of tune. This would mean that the time on the g-tech was probably off by approx 0.6secs. This would put my g-tech 14.48 time at around 15.08 on the track, and Tom's 14.57 at 15.17. Your g-tech 15.15 run would therefore be 15.75 which would make sense for the limited traction you had on take-off that day (and the stock 3.55's in your car). With a working awd system, you could probably shave another 0.2-0.3 off of that time which would be flying for a stock geared SVX.

-Chike
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  #50  
Old 11-28-2004, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chiketkd

Bill,

I was also thinking that the G-tech we used could have been off by 10mph as well. My best trap speed of 99.6mph would correlate almost perfectly with the 89.54 I got at the track. Now the temps were a bit cooler during out g-tech runs than when I last raced at the track...

In terms of ET, I 'know' my car can do a 15.1 at the track in its current state of tune. This would mean that the time on the g-tech was probably off by approx 0.6secs. This would put my g-tech 14.48 time at around 15.08 on the track, and Tom's 14.57 at 15.17. Your g-tech 15.15 run would therefore be 15.75 which would make sense for the limited traction you had on take-off that day (and the stock 3.55's in your car). With a working awd system, you could probably shave another 0.2-0.3 off of that time which would be flying for a stock geared SVX.

-Chike
Chike,
That's about what I figured too. It'll be very interesting to see what next season brings after I'm done with all my "winter projects"
-Bill
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'92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33
'92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension
'92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place)
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  #51  
Old 11-28-2004, 08:50 PM
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Chiketkd Chiketkd is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by SVXRide
Chike,
That's about what I figured too. It'll be very interesting to see what next season brings after I'm done with all my "winter projects"
-Bill
Winter projects that'll keep your car 'stock' of course...

-Chike
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2013 Cosmic Blue 5spd Evo X GSR
2006 Galaxy Gray 6MT RX-8 (sold)
2006 Steel Gray WRX TR (sold)
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  #52  
Old 11-28-2004, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chiketkd

Winter projects that'll keep your car 'stock' of course...

-Chike
That's my story, and I'm sticking with it!
-Bill (aka "stealth SVXer" )
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'92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33
'92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension
'92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place)
My Locker
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  #53  
Old 12-28-2004, 02:39 PM
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svxfiles svxfiles is offline
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Thanks Victor, and thanks Sean.

I recieved the first set of phenolic spacers from Outlaw Engineering about two days before Christmas, as forwarded to me by alltrac/Victor.
The kit quality could not be better!
I have about two and a half leasurely hours in the installation, including an hour in 28f Christmas day weather. Thanks, Di. " Honey, its Christmas, surely you can keep away from work ONE day a year, dinners almost ready?"

I have not had a chance to "run" it in the G-tech quater, but will post an improvement, if there is one.
This type of mod helps more, when the air is warmer, so I will be expecting an improvement on the hot drag racing days of the spring and summer. The pictures are in my locker, and the "How To" follows;


Phenolic Spacer How To;

Remove the two plastic Phillips head screws and the gray plastic throttle body cover that says “H-6”.
Disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables, the jam nuts are 12mm.
Loosen the three hose clamps, and remove the airbox.
Remove all six 12mm head bolts that hold the throttle body to the intake manifold.
Pull the throttle body away from the intake manifold, and remove the single gasket.
Install the phenolic spacer and two gaskets, one on either side, and reinstall the throttle body using the longer bolts provided.
Remove the two 14mm head bolts holding the air conditioner compressor bracket to the front of the intake manifold and remove the one 10mm head bolt holding the fan belt cover to the AC bracket.
Remove the cover over the upper EGR tube, on the pass side at the rear of the intake manifold. It is “spring loaded” and just pulls off.
Remove the two upper, and the two lower, 10mm head screws, that hold the EGR tube to the engine, and remove the tube.
To get more room to work, on the drivers side, remove the two 10mm head bolts that hold down the oil fill tube, and remove the tube.
Remove all eight 12mm head bolts that hold the upper intake manifold to the lower sections of the intake manifold.
Raise the upper intake manifold at least 3/8”.
Remove the gaskets.
NOTE; The gaskets can separate, make sure to remove all gasket material. There are black O-rings that can get stuck to the manifold. See the pictures.
With the manifold raised, slide the two gaskets and spacer into position, one side at a time.
Align them with the new 35mm long shaft,8mmX1.25thread, 12mm head bolts.
Make sure all bolts are started before you tighten them.

Once the manifold is bolted back into place, you can now make a tube stretching jig.
Take a piece of “angle iron”, at least 9.25” long, and 1.25” wide.
Using a drill press,(preferred) or a drill with a 6mm or ¼” bit, and drill two holes into the angle iron, so that the bottom end of the tube can be bolted, with the top end of the tube parallel to the other “leg” of the angle iron face.
Now using the drill press again, drill through the upper flange outer bolt hole just enough to mark the location.
With the tube removed from the flange, measure out ¼” from the mark, and drill a locating hole where you want the bolt hole to be after stretching the tube.
Bolt the bottom of the tube in place.
Hold the angle iron jig in a vice to keep it from moving.
Place a ¼” thick pry bar,(Phillips screwdriver) through the upper flange outer hole, and the locating hole in the jig, and pry/stretch the tube to the correct length. This can be done with NO HEAT applied.
Bolt into place the now longer tube and gaskets.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
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The first SuperCharged SVX,
the first 4.44 gears,
the first equal length headers,
the first phenolic spacers,
the first Class Glass fiberglass hood,
the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway


Fiberglass Hood thread
My locker
4.44 Swap link

Last edited by svxfiles; 12-28-2004 at 05:18 PM.
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  #54  
Old 12-28-2004, 06:28 PM
alltrac alltrac is offline
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Excellent write up and pictures. Thanks Tom for getting this done.
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  #55  
Old 12-28-2004, 09:23 PM
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Chiketkd Chiketkd is offline
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Thumbs up

Awesome write-up and great pics Tom! I can't wait to get this mod on my car once the production kit is available...

-Chike
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  #56  
Old 12-29-2004, 08:37 AM
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  #57  
Old 12-29-2004, 09:34 AM
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Great write-up thanks for the pm!
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  #58  
Old 12-29-2004, 10:11 AM
justiceSVX
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So wait, this is just a TB spacer? Not for the intake manifold?
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  #59  
Old 12-29-2004, 10:21 AM
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svxfiles svxfiles is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by justiceSVX
So wait, this is just a TB spacer? Not for the intake manifold?
It's for both. In my locker I just stacked one folder over the other one.
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The first SuperCharged SVX,
the first 4.44 gears,
the first equal length headers,
the first phenolic spacers,
the first Class Glass fiberglass hood,
the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway


Fiberglass Hood thread
My locker
4.44 Swap link
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  #60  
Old 01-11-2005, 08:44 PM
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svxfiles svxfiles is offline
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Hi, Guys.
I spoke with Sean today, 1-11-05, and he is ready to release pre-production, or very soon, production versions of our phenolic spacers.
His web-sight is www.outlawengineering.com. And the co. # is 317-496-7205
Tom

ps; He takes PayPal.
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www.svxfiles.com
The first SuperCharged SVX,
the first 4.44 gears,
the first equal length headers,
the first phenolic spacers,
the first Class Glass fiberglass hood,
the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway


Fiberglass Hood thread
My locker
4.44 Swap link
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