SVX Network Forums Live Chat! SVX or Subaru Links Old Lockers Photo Post How-To Documents Message Archive SVX Shop Search |
IRC users: |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Getting ready to replace flexplate
So I bought my first svx a few weeks ago and just after a few days of driving developed a knocking/ticking noise and by searching through this forum was able to figure it out it was the flexplate and nothing more serious. Now I'm starting to order parts and get ready to do it and I'm wondering if it is necessary under any and what circumstances to replace the bolts or if I should just reuse the old ones. No one has really said anything about getting new ones but don't wanna have to wait another week waiting for 5 bucks in bolts.
Also I plan on doing the ball joints as one is bad and I will be taking them apart anyway in the process (plan on removing ball joints and just moving transmission back and not full removal of the transmission)- And again am wondering if it is necessary to get new bolts and nuts for the ball joints. This I've heard is recommended but for all nuts and bolts needed its over $20. I don't want to seem like a cheap-a** just saving every little bit helps for future repairs down the road. Any input or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks-Nate |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
I replace nuts and bolts almost any time I'm taking things apart, but my car has seen 16 hard winters and the hardware is all pretty ugly. For the ball joint, the three bolts into the control arm are pretty heavy and solid. Mine old ones looked fine in the protected spots. Re-using them probably wouldn't have been a problem. But the pinch bolt (the smaller one that goes through the knuckle) is pretty thin, so that one I would change.
__________________
Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
I just double checked and none of the bolts/nuts have any rust at all but I do see what you mean about the pinch bolt being pretty weak comparatively to the flange bolts.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
Where are the alignment pins located between the engine and transmission? And how do you make sure its all lined up correctly? I definitely don't want to have to go through this again in the near future?
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
Quote:
There are two studs that come out of the engine to help start the alignment, and then there are two dowels located a little ways above the studs. THey could either end up in the transmission or the engine when you pull it. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
okay, thanks
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
The Ball joint bolts and nuts should be good till the Lord returns, especially if you tighten them so good that no one but you can loosen them!! Those are pretty big pups!
Keith |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
Be VERY careful when putting the transmission back in, make sure the torque converter is fully seated into the transmission. The transmission should slide all the way up to the engine and fully seat (I put grease on the alignment dowels to help it slide in better). DO NOT cinch the transmission down with the bolts if it won't slide in all the way, if you force it and the torque converter is not fully seated, it will destroy the hydraulic pump in the transmission (That's what happened to mine before I bought it).
__________________
1992 SVX LS-L #1222 Pearl White 1987 GL Turbo wagon, 5 lug conversion, D/R 5 speed (Rice killer) 1992 Dodge Ram 4x4 diesel (car hauler) 1968 Dodge Polara convertible (Camaro killer) 1990 Toyota Corolla FWD auto (330,000 mile grocery getter) 1986 VW Jetta |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
Quote:
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
How do you turn the driveshaft to get to the last companion flange attaching bolt?
Edit: Nevermind, I had a complete dumba$$ moment. I apologize for the stupidity Last edited by 1986nate; 10-30-2008 at 10:24 AM. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
How many bolts are there that mount the transmission to the engine? All I see is the 2 that are right above the steering rack that you take the nuts off and the studs are left in. Am I taking off the right ones? or are there others that need to be undone as well?
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
Two at the top of the motor as well. One in the starter and one on the pass. side engine.
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
alright I got those and I have jacked up on the engine some and I still can't get the trans and engine to separate. I have a jack under the trans and I have tried lowering it a little and raising it a little and trying to jar it loose but It still shows no sign of separating. I have also carefully tried prying on the bell housing and it still won't com loose. Its pissing me off and I'm not sure what else to try.
Any help or advice would greatly be appreciated -Nate |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
When I replaced my transmission it was a real pain to get off too. I found a couple small edges where the transmission extended past the motor that I could pound on with a bar and mallet and it worked beautifully. The one is by the alignment hole on the lower passenger side and I think the other was up by the starter (after removal of course).
Hope this helps. |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Getting ready to replace flexplate
Alright I have tried prying on the transmission with a crowbar with all my strength and it won't budge. I don't know what to do now, it sucks i've gotten this far only to be stuck not being able to get the trans separated.... Just to clarify, there are 2 nuts on the bottom just above the steering rack, and 2 bolts on top-one that comes out when you take the starter off and one on pretty much the exact opposite side? Am I missing any?
|
|
|