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#1
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Removal of Crank Pully
I have read up on using the cars starter to remover the pulley and that sounds a little scary. The section option i read about was using the inspection cover to lock the flex plate. Where is the cover and from what side of the car can I get to it?
Thank you from a new and slightly frustrated svx owner |
#2
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
On the passenger side of the bell housing,
almost at the top of the bell housung, there (usually) is a black cover, used for access to the flex plate/ to torque converter bolts. Don't be surprized if there is only the access hole and the cover is missing. BTW, absolutely do not use the starter to remove the bolt, it is far too dangerous, for both the car, and the person using that method!
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#3
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
LoL, I have used the starter method on nearly a dozen vehicles, my own twice, and have yet to encounter any problems or consequences.
The important thing is the placement of the end of the breaker bar, and that you only tap the key, not crank on it. |
#4
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
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Why in the world would you put that strain on your starter, the ring gear on your torque converter, (not to mention the danger to anyone near the potentially exploding related bits) when there are much safer methods?
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#5
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
For a starter and ring gear, it takes barely any extra torque (to what it normally needs to crank a 10:1 engine) to loosen the crank pulley bolt, im sure it hardly "feels" it.
As for exploding bits, why would there be any less torque and strain required on the socket and tools to break the bolt loose by hand power? 108-123 ft-lbs is the same whether loosened by hand or by machine. I was simply stating that I have done it many times and have never had anything bad happen, if anyone else HAS had a catastrophe occur while using this method, feel free to chime in |
#6
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
I've also done the starter method many, many times, including on my SVX. The starter doesn't even notice, I've never heard one struggle, just a quick *pop* when the bolt breaks loose as soon as the key is turned, between the torque of the starter and the huge gear reduction, the 100ft*lbs or so that is on the bolt is nothing. Pretty much as long as you have the wrench going the right way and braced properly, it is very safe.
I'll admit my first time doing it was quite unnerving, I checked my wrench positioning at least a dozen times before turning the key, I even safety wired the wrench to something. I am still very careful, but I'm not as afraid to do it. I still make sure there is no one is near it and will put some plywood between the wrench and radiator when needed. Last edited by Elliott; 01-16-2010 at 06:14 PM. |
#7
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
ok if you use the starter method how do you re torque the nut?
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#8
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
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I stop the crankshaft from turning by stopping the rotation of the flywheel/flexplate and actually use a torque wrench! You know, just like the Subaru Service Manual says.... but I supose that you could rewire the starter to run backwards and have the reversed polarity starter, now caller "stopper" spin it backwards to a specified torque! Or, you could install a manual transmission, and have the car pulled backwards at a predetermined rate, with of course the crankshaft bolt firmly welded to the subframe and suddenly drop the clutch for just long enough for the torque faries to.....
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#9
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
I know it was sarcasm, but you can't make a normal automotive starter work backwards, they go the same direction regardless of polarity. I've converted 6 volt positive ground cars to 12 volt negative ground and used the same starter without an issue.
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#10
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
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#11
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
__________________
www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#12
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
im guessing your motor is still in your car, but if you dont mind resealing the pan to the crank, you can get a plastic handled screwdriver and stop the crank from moving by wedging it between the crank and block. You would have to drop your oil pan and pump assembly to get to the crank. Also, if you do this, wrap the screwdriver handle in a rag so no plastic gets into your crank case.
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#13
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
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#14
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
From the hood, but I have never needed to use this to remove a crank pulley. I just put a breaker bar on the pulley nut and whack the breaker with a small sledge.
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"The things you own end up owning you. It's only after you lose everything that you're free to do anything." 92 Pearl White Ls-l (138k) Euro Headlights & Blinkers, 97 Grill, Euro Tail Lights, SS Brake Lines, Stebro Exhaust, Slotted Rotors, Classic Registration 96 Legacy Outback (206k) 5-speed 2.2 Lightweight Crank Pulley, Group N Trans & Motor Mounts SOLD Wanted: Steering Wheel Last edited by michael; 01-17-2010 at 07:53 AM. |
#15
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
hi ive own and have read the service manual for svx and it never says to rewire the starter ,first the bendex of the starter would just spin ,ive seen nissan starters in subarus from reman companies that the engine in the wrong direction ,now there is a tool that fits in the 4 holes in the crank pulley
it holds the pulleywhile you remove and tighten the bolt ,i use the starter method for 30 years with out breaking anything or causing problems ,one trick is use a ractchet so it doesnt fly up,using the flex plate bolts like a SOHC engine used in the mid 80s is a good method too crank bolt torque 123 ft lbs charlie |
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