Quote:
Originally Posted by dromano
Is the thread lock strong enough to cause the crank bolt to snap in two?
How much torque would you estimate it would take to make the thread lock turn in the crank?
The mention of the jack handle made me think of this: what about putting a piece of 2X4 on the floor jack, put the jack under the crank pulley, jack up till pulley is not going to move? Any chance of damage to bearings, etc,?
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The crankshaft bolt is a big bolt, 14mm X 1.5
Thats bigger than the wheel studs at 12mm X 1.25
The torque specs for the crankshaft bolt are 108-123 ft/lbs.
Most 1/2" drive torque wrenches are about 16" long from the center of the drive to where the outer end of the handle is.
If the average mechanics hand is 4" wide, you would figure the center of pull at 14"s.
To keep the math simple, lets use 15" as the pull point.
So to pull 120 ft/lb of torque you only have to pull 105#s.
Lets say the mechanic is distracted after finding out his cheating wife just spent $3000.00 on lingerie that hes never seen.
Without thinking he pulls 210#s of torque.
The crankshaft bolt is now streached and improperly torqued to double what it should be, 240ft/lbs.
The bolt does not break, but he dented the fender that he was leaning on.
OK, OK, I kid.
If he pulled more than 150 ft/lbs he SHOULD know it.
ESPECIALLY with a torque wrench!
So my best guess is that it might be torqued to 150-160 ft/lbs.
At which point red thread locker is not even an issue.
SO, if you use a torque wrench set to 150-160 ft/lb you should feel safe in removing it while holding the torque converter still with the afore mentioned pry bar.