awd wiring scematic for tcu
 

does anyone have a pic they can post or give detail in what wires go where? thanks

What are you trying to find out? All of the wires in the harness that goes from the TCU to the actual trans are there, they are just unused on the FWD trans. The only wires that aren't there are the ones for the FWD fuse and the FWD and AT OIL TEMP lights.

which wires on it go to what part, that's what im tryin to say

Locker pics
 

Have a look at these, you need to be able to display pdfs to see them:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...list/41621.pdf

This is from the US '92 WSM, but I think your car looks to be '93 production by the all-red colour, so I expect your wiring to be the same.

Joe

all the wires are ran and now there is binding in the rear. w/ the fwd fuse in it goes away and there is no code thrown either.wheel bearings are ok so i know they aren't it. need this fixed asap!

stealth bump....

Seth

This sounds to me like your rear transfer clutch is binding. When you put in the fuse it disconnects rear drive altogether, makes the car front-wheel drive.

Does it show no codes with the fuse out? The reason I ask is the C solenoid which controls the rear drive clutch pack. If the C solenoid was not working properly there is a possibility it would throw a code if it was shorted. [But the rear drive could be mechanically shot without throwing a code]

Chances are your rear transfer clutches are shot. You should do a search for fixes.

One suggested fix I recall is to drive the car in figures of eight in an empty car-park where it is safe to do so. The logic of this move is to unstick the clutches if your fault is temporary.

However, even if the clutches are gone you are not facing the worst, dollar wise; these clutches can be replaced on the car without stripping the whole gearbox.

Do some searches for information.

Joe:)

Joe, it shows no codes with and without the fwd fuse in place. thanks for the info

Did the trans work in whatever car it came from? Mileage?

If the packs were binding mechanically, they would bind with or without the fuse.

My guess is that there is still a wiring issue.

This is where a select monitor is a necessary tool for any good mechanic. Are you doing the swap yourself? I have a couple theories up my sleave but my straight guess is the wiring is right (if the FWD fuse is working) but the solenoid C is bad and not reactive to a signal but only to a constant power supply. SO best thing to do would be to put the car up on all 4's... start it in park...Climb underneath (safety first) and try to rotate the driveshaft. This will tell you whether the car is binding because of solenoid/clutch failure or if it is binding slightly from a weak signal. Thats my story

Tom

You will rarely see a duty solenoid failure that is detectable by the TCU. All it knows is that it is there (there is no open circuit, as if it was disconnected), and that it is not shorted to ground. The solenoid rarely fails electrically, usually the little guy just gets stuck physically.

There is an easy test i was taught that anyone can do in a garage or other quiet place.

With the selector in "N", turn the ignition to on (turn a/c off and all that so the car isn't making any noise. With the door open, move the selector to R, D, 3,2, or 1. You should hear a steady, continuous buzzing noise. This is the duty solenoid operating. slide the shifter between d and n a few times and you will be able to hear it, silent in N, buzzing in D. If you can't hear it, the solenoid has failed. When mine was bad when i did my conversion, it would buzz for about 1 second, then kinda die off

If it is working properly it sounds sorta similar to a bee flying.
(bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz)

Mine sounded like this

bzzzzz...............zz......z..................)

The noise should also stop with the FWD fuse in.

I really need to make a video of it.

Have a friend come over with a working SVX (or other phase 1 4eat) for comparison.