WTF happened here?!
 

ok so i got a stock pulley from svxfiles and when i went to put it on i found out why mine was wobbling. the little slot the crank key slips into on the pulley has been gouged out to 3x it's original size and the key on the crankshaft is cocked sideways:eek: i just don't really know what would cause this to happen like this. i can't put the new pulley on because of the crank key being bent off to one side. i tried to get the key to straighten out but it's just not gonna happen. what am i gonna have to do to replace the key? i don't know how i'm gonna get the crank gear off with the key like that so i'm kinda screwed right now. this is my only day to work on it so some quick responses would be great. thanks guys, Jason

If you can take some pics as it'll help people trouble shoot your issue better... :)

-Chike

That's a difficult problem to fix. I really hope that all goes well for you.

I think you may have to use a puller to get the pulley off the crank shaft. There could be problems with this method. The crank shaft could end up getting damaged if the key doesn't straighten out.

Was the bolt loose? I think this damage could start if the bolt came loose.

Another possibilityis the ac, ps, or alt siezing up and twisting the crank pulley. The belt would have to have been real tight for that to happen.

Is the pulley loose on the crank shaft? If it is the shaft may be damaged. :(

i'll probally need a puller for the timing gear but the pulley comes right off. we figure either the bolt came loose at some point in it's life or like was said something froze up but those belts would have had to been plenty tight. but that is what kinda looks like happened though:eek: i'm gonna pull off the gear and find a new woodruff key and put on my new pulley and hopefully all will be well. i'll let you all know how things are going. i'll take pics when i get out there and get it all apart. wait till you see this:rolleyes:

ok so heres some pics of the chaos. it's kinda hard to see but the key on the crankshaft is bent pretty good and you can see the great big opening in the pulley that should be no bigger than the crank key. this is gonna suck:rolleyes:

That looks like one of the many things that happened with the Teg except my bolt was gone before the key was turned to dust replace the key and the pulley and hope that it didn't bugger the end of the crankshaft. also the pulley and key took all the damage on the Teg.

i think everything is ok. i'm gonna use a grinder on the key so i can use the gear puller i just got to remove the gear and put in the new key and then i'll put the new pulley i got from svxfiles(thanks tom!) on and should be good to go by tomorrow afternoon. what caused it on your teg? i wish i could figure out what caused mine to do what it did. if you notice in the pic, you can see the shape of my crank gear impressed on the back of the pulley. it's more deeply imprinted on one side which is why it was wobbling.:eek: why do i always get the cars that have had the crazy things go wrong with them?:confused: i'll report how it goes tomorrow.:)

Don't have a clue got into the driveway for the battery to die(no alternator with no belt moving it) got uunder the hood the net morning to fing the bolt gone. no evidence it had been there for a while either :eek: the only thing I can even begin to think of is it came off some time after my father and I replaced the head(have to remove all the pulleys and even a motor mount to get the timeing belt cover off)

I had the same problem and my belts actually let loose. Being close by I went to the dealer just running on the battery.

My ass still hurts from the raping but the guy did a good job. My pulley had the same keyway problem and he told me he had to pretty much make some ghetto key to hold the pulley on there. He also stated to make sure I always have that bolt torqued down to spec and spit me out the numbers. Of course if would help if he supplied me with the subaru tool to hold the dam pulley. Good guy though but oh the dealer sucks - I was pissed when I got the bill.

Good luck

ok now i'm screwed. the gear puller just broke the timing teeth off the back of my crank pulley. don't know what to do but sit here and miss work. I"M SCREWED!

Oh crap that's not good. The holes in the T-sprocket need to be tapped for bolts. The puller then pulls on the bolts and not the back of the T-sprocket.

well, there may be a 92 for sale on here soon. the gear is shot and the POS puller screwed up the threads on the crank too. couldn't do it with the bolt in cause it was too long and was hitting the radiator. well, i think i'm screwed and it's over cause i can't afford to fix it. either someone volunteers to fix it or i'm screwed cause i'm not dealing with it much more than this. :(

Obviously the puller isn't what fouled the threads. Sounds as though it's time to let someone with more skills fix it before you cost yourself more money. It isn't the end of the world and the repair will cost you less than selling cheap. No, the crank doesn't have to be replaced, and as long as the key slot isn't damaged, doesn't have to be removed.

Sorry, I can't make the truth less painful to hear. :(

sorry partner but i got all the skill i need. the pulley is off and all is well. just waiting for parts to come next day air delivery from subaruparts. i cut that ****er off with a rotozip and it worked great. it should be running like new by friday at the latest. pulley....check crank sprocket...check woodruff key.....check:D

looky what i did:) i'll take care of the bolt thread situation tomorrow or friday, it won't be a problem either as it's just the first thread or so that's messed up.:D

Glad to hear that! Unfortunate that you didn't grind the key down first. Hope the crank slot is in good condition. Make sure the bolt is torqued down so it doesn't happen again. :)

actually, i did grind the key down first.:rolleyes: but it would appear that the sprocket was also twisted a little on the crank. it was enough to keep it from coming off easy that's for sure. the key slot is ok. it didn't hurt it very much. i think all will be well as soon as all the parts arrive.

P.S. are the timing rings on the back of the sprocket included with the new sprocket from subaruparts? it looks like it from the diagram but i want to be sure. thanks, Jason

If you're referring to the washer like ring behind the sprocket yes, it should be included.

yes the rings with the high spots on them for the crank sensor to pickup.

I did the same thing once. That pulley ain't cheap either.

I was surprised today when www.subaru.com only wanted $32.00 plus $8.00 shipping for it! I actually expected more, heck they want $160.00 for the crank pulley! :eek:
Good job, Jason!

You may want to check that hole in the crank and see if it is deep enough to accept the full length of the BOLT. See how far in that bolt will go without the pulley in place.

How are you going to hold the crank to torque the bolt? I use a large strap wrench on the pulley.

:D yes it was a pretty good deal for it. you cut me a pretty good one too.;) as you know i don't have a ride right now but i'll get your money order on the way asap.i payed the 18.95 for next day air shipping cause i need my svx back like yesterday:rolleyes: but it's not so bad now cause i caught a piece of metal to my eye when i was zippin off the sprocket and the doctors told me no work till next week.:ouch: i was even wearing safety glasses!:confused: i'll let you guys know how it all goes back together when the part gets here probally tuesday. and since i have the rotozip right now, i'm gonna chop off my pre cats and replace em with good old fashioned pipe and clamps this week. the 18th is drawing near and i'm aiming for some new stock geared n/a svx 1/4 mile times.;) Jason

yes the bolt will go all the way in without the pulley on.:)

What's your current personal best in the 1/4 mile w/ trap speed?

-Chike

i haven't gotten to run it at the track yet, but i ran against capuano one day and he has the shift kit and 1v4(which i don't) and most of my mods and i ran away from him real quick like:D so i think i can do it or at least come damn close.

Nice. My advice for the 18th to run the best time possible:

1) Remove your spare tire and tools at the strip to lower weight.
2) Don't run with a full tank of gas (1/2 tank or lower).
3) When you get to the starting line, brake torque to 2,000 rpms and on the 3rd amber floor the gas. You won't red light and you should cut a 2.2 sec 60ft time.
4) Don't let off on the gas until you're sure you've completely passed the 1/4 mile timing lights!

Good luck!

-Chike

got it;) don't worry, i've been racing for a long time now. i'm gonna experiment with launches and see what i find out. really want to see what the "secret" launch produces for times cause it really does feel faster that way when you do it right. the "secret" i'm talking about it is hitting the throttle to part throttle and engaging power mode and then increasing the throttle with rpm. i did it once and it turned into super svx!:D it's hard to repeat though. right now though i'm just hoping to get it running and have enough money to actually do the 18th. we'll see how it goes.:)

Hi budfreak1,

oops i didnt see this thread from a long time. Great you made things straighten up even you were frustrated in between. Happy to see your baby being fully loaded and rocking again on the streets.

enjoy,
-Pavan.

Lol chaos.

Lol 4 5.

thanks pavan. doin the best i can with what i have to work with.:D

:eek::eek: OUCH! so what caused that to happen? that's the same way my pulley looks but your crank key is much worse than mine was.:eek:

L0123.

My guess is the key had just become soft somehow. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Ryuken/lol.gif

Hey, about that secret 'sweet spot' you were talkin about, I know exactly where mine is. I think I tried explaining it like last year or something but it didn't really fly around here.
You found the secret to a good hard launch though.
Punch it all the way when you hit about 20mph. ;)
I failed to utilize it when I ran so my 60' times were weak. *shrug*

don't it suck that a 2.77$ part:eek: can screw up like 2-300$ worth of parts when it goes bad.:) that's life in the svx world though i guess.:D

Keys malform or shear for three reasons - 1) the center bolt was loose, or 2) the slot in the shaft or pulley was damaged, or 3) extreme excessive torque was applied. Metal doesn't 'go soft' without extreme heat applied. If that level of heat was present at that point there would first be damage to something else, way more obvious, before the key failed. In this case the pulley is softer than the key, which is softer than the crank. This is a good thing as the pulley and key are waaayyy easier to repair than the crank.

If the metal outer ring was allowed to vibrate, because of a deteriorating rubber insulator, then the whipping action, of the heavy, outer ring, would be transferred to the inner metal ring, attached to the crankshaft.
If the bolt holding the 5#+ pulley loosened, then the whole assembly would beat itself back and forth, hammering the key.
I never use Locktight (blue) on my crank pulley bolt, but you might.

Torsional Harmonics at work.
 

When the bolt is loose, the crankshafts torsional harmonics, that the damper is there to resist, are let loose to work the key, the same way they work the crank to crack it. :eek:

Harvey. ;)

yeah i figure the schmuck who put the timing belt on wrong probally didn't get the bolt tight either. someone obviously tightened it between then and now but it did's it's damage. wish i could find the former owner and see what's been done to this thing so i have no more little surprises:rolleyes: actually, i think i'll start a thread and do just that.;)

got an e-mail today from dhl and my sprocket will be here today. i'll let you all know how it goes.

:D it's up and running;) everything worked out pretty good and went together fairly easy. she's running like a top again other than needing the pre cats replaced. they stunk real good today:rolleyes: and the car is feeling held back so i'll take care of them next week. no more pulley wobble and it runs much smoother now. my steering is better now too cause i found a plug off the power steering line right off the resevoir that was disconnected for some reason. why did the former owners unhook so many things???? the alarm, the power steering, and the wires to the vanity lights on my sunvisors are cut too. what else will i find unhooked? couldn't be much more as everything works now.hopefully:rolleyes: thanks for all the help guys and for helping me keep my head up on this very hard week. Jason:)

I recently found the wires to my vanity lights in the visors cut as well, but I figured it was because the originals sagged and were replaced, only to sag again, which is why I was looking at them.